DokterPeppor

Well thanks for all the tips guys, i'll let you know how it comes out, and maybe try to post pics..

It is spray paint....It has come out amazing until this....I've done two medium-wet coats of clear over it...it's disapeared a bit but maybe I should sand it down a bit, spray a light color coat over it, and then clear over that without sanding?

Now when you say I should be able to go over 320 with automotive clear, do you mean in the sense of painting clear over 320-grit sanded paint, or any grit sanded over(higher than) 320 grit for automotive paint? I ask this because I used 320, made the paint nice and super smooth. Then I sprayed my first coat of clear today and I see some fine sanding scratches under the clear. Will these get hidden as more coats of clear are sprayed, or should I not spray anymore clear and sand out those scratches with finer grits first?

Thanks guys. I will be spraying automotive lacquer, both are from the same manufacturer. I will go ahead and scuff sand with 320. My next question, it doesn't matter if there is a very small amount of texture on the color coat right? I mean, it's not enough to make the clearcoat texture over it but does it need to be completely level for the clear, or can I do my coats of clear, level that down perfectly smooth and buff out?

Hey everyone. I am currently doing a project where im redoing a Squier. It was origianlly black and i've stripped it down to bare wood, re-finished, sealed, sanded, primed, and put on all of the color coats. I am painting it white. My question is about how to prep the color surface to apply clearcoat. Before the colo coats, I used 320-grit and sanded the primer nice and level. I have since then put 4-5 coats of white on. How should I prepare the white surface for the clearcoat. Since there is a clearcoat I do not need to polish out the white right? Instead am I going to sand it to a matte finish, and then do my clear coats and polish those out? What grit should I sand my color coats with to prepare for the clearcoat? Thanks.

Anyone know anything about the Seymour duncan Pearly Gates? A good friend of mine that knows what he's talking about said throwing one in the bridge would eb perfect for what I described...any comments or expericnce?

Hello everyone, I am not on here often, but I have a proble, well not really a problem but here's what's up. I have an Epiphone G-400. PRetty nice guitar, but i've recently purchased a tube amp and can now tell that i'm not getting that great of clearity because of the pickups. these pickups are very sensative and can't handle that much gain, and just don't sound great overall. The problem is that I know little about pickups, except that I want new ones. I need pickups that can handle the gain, wont give tons of feedback, have great distortion, but great cleans as well...nice warm cleans and distortion. I am not looking for 80's sound, or all out metal, more of a modern heavy rock/ alternative metal sound is what im going for, but there are so many choices for pickups I dont know where to start, EMG, Seymour Duncan, DiMarzio.....I have no idea where to start or what to get... Can some of you guys please give me some help and ideas, and if you have more questions or need more info please say so. Thanks

So a while back I painted ym squier a blue I did not like, over the factory black. I finally stripped the whole thing with a finishing sander. It is down to bare wood all the way around and looks pretty even to me. If there are some spots that didn't sand 100% through the sealer, can I apply sealer over it? I have brush on sanding sealer. Is this a safe way to seal it or does it HAVE TO be spray on sealer? Will it be even enough if I use the brush?

I use micro-mesh but after the 2000 you can't go straight to 8000 unless you want to rub the smaller scratches out for hours......literally. I go from 2000 to 3600...then to 6000, then to 8000 and I rarely use 12000. The key is to get rid of the scratches from the previous grit 100%. By doing this you get a deep shine by the time you make it to 8000 or 12000, however skip grits and don't get all of the scratches out results in a dull finish. Hope I explained it well enough.

anyone? I need ot buy it soon.

So my strat is stripped of paint and sealer. I have sanded it and its time ot seal it. What kinds are best, spray or brush on sealer? Any certain brand that's good, affordable, and easy to get ahold of? Thanks.

I know with every question im probably sounding noob...but I am new to this so dont kill me . What's the best way when redrilling to get a straight drill and screw when putting that in. Drill press is out of the question with a whole guitar.

I took your guys advice since you know best about this stuff and bought e,m some titebond. I have a 3/8" oak dowel I will use, which is almost the EXACt size of the base of the strap button so it iwll cover it. Nobody will ever know. RExcept you all cuz I told you. I guess I will take a 3/8" bit, drill out the original screws hole and glue the dowel in. how long should I let the dowel dry in there before I drill it out and screw the button in?

so I looked at Home depot to day at dowels. I dont have access to the same wood dowels as the guitar is so would it be dumb to use a oak dowel? The edges/bottom of the strap button will eb covering it the whole time it wont be noticed. Also, could I used gorilla glue to glue the dowel in? It's just as good if not better than any wood glue.

Thanks guys...Actually to be honest, I think I would be MORE comfortable doing it the dowel method and knwong for sure that the screw wont come back out once put it. I'm sure the toothpick way works but im not risking my axe over that when I can do it right. what kind of wood glue do you all recomend for the dowel, and what size dowel should eb used for the ebst effect job? I know a dowel the size of the screw would be pretty much pointless, so how big? Thanks for everything though guys!