matthew bryan

Hello all, The last build I did....quite a while ago....does not have sided dots on the neck. I built it to only have fretboard markers on the face of the fretboard......and these were installed offset to be on the left side of the fretboard (if you are looking straight on the fretboard). This was done to both have a different visual feel and to be able to see them as they are closer to the side and I did not think I needed the side ones as this was a duplication of work. However.....I was wrong. I did not put a belly cut into the body and therefore it does not "rotate" up towards me showing the fretboard markers at all. So I was going to install some side dots. The neck is a truoil finish and I was wondering if taping off, marking , drilling, and filing down with a file vs sandpaper would work as I do not want to mess up the finish. Any tips would be appreciated as I dont want to refinish the entire neck if it can be avoided.

Mean......and extremely lively.......just not musc words to describe it. I have put it through its pa es and am really happy. Will tweak it to make the headless system perfect going forward......it is just......fun to play!

The paint job explains the project title..... This forum has taught me so much. I wanted to show yall the latest item and thank this group for all the sharing you have done over the years. -Alder body.....shape my own version as I wanted something small -neck is Sapele.....used a router bit for 95% of its shape -rosewood fingerboard from stewmac....pre slotted -black dyes veneer for head cap -two floyd nuts for headless clamping -jcustom bridge -seymore duncan pickups -push pull pot for cool tap and 3 way switch.....no cap in electronics....wired direct -shaller s locks for strap -magic marble paint for swirl........yes I know it is not perfect....but it is mine and uniquie.....and fit the theam -eastwood 2k clear in a can.....2 cans....and still not perfectly flat but good enough for me -tru oil on neck.....and lemon oil on fretboard Thanks again for all your help over the years!!!!

Sorry to get back to this late. After reading my post again........I ment 3x3 headstock. Sorry for the missed post. Those look good Chris! Any tips on construction and making sure the break angle is good? As I mentioned I am thinking about putting a Floyd rose style string retainer on the headstock. .........lastly how did you veneer? Did you make a reverse caul and clamp it?

I was thinking of doing a 6x6 non angled headstock on the next build. I am having issues finding pictures around to see if I like it or not. Does anyone know of any builders that do this so I can see it?.....or can you post some pics so I can see if I like it or not..... lastly if I do this do you have any advice on pitfalls or design tips I need to consider? I am thinking of putting a string retainer.....like on a floyd rose to make sure I have a good break angle to the tuning posts.

This is what I am going for http://www.vintageandrare.com/product/Nik-Huber-Guitars-Dolphin-II-2011-Charcoal-Burst-18539

Nice guitar!!!!! Do you think the bleaching idea would make an even greater contrast? Making sure to get most of the yellow or amber out. Or......do I try to just find a very light colored top to start with?

Hello all, I am wanting to do a charcoal burst quilted maple top like PRS does. I am wanting to know the best method to do this. The ones I like the most are the ones where the non black parts are almost white to every very light grey. It is like the wood was bleached prior to putting the black dye on it then sanded back and revealing the very light maple. I do not want to see the amber maple after sanding the black back My questions are: 1. Is this just a dye black and sand back method where you just sand the middle area and keep the edge dark for the burst effect? 2. Or....is this a diluted black dye put on, then sand back the whole top, then spray a very dark black edge burst. 3. Or....same as 2 but instead of spraying the dye on the wood you would seal the diluted black, then spray a clear with black dye in it as a toner. 4. Or.....bleach it first to take all the amber or yellow out of the maple and proceed as above by strong black and sand till I like it. Anyway again I like the jobs where there is contrast between dark patches and very light patches only using black.......very minimal amber fron the natural maple showing....with Crome hardware and white binding.....looks like a sharp looking tuxedo. Thanks for any info.

Hello all, I an going to make a les Paul type of body this go round and g Have a question regarding a type of body carve. I a Would like to use a type of raised panel type of bit. One that will have a small flat at the edge and then slope up to be even with the top. I know they exist but wanted to ask if any one hase used this method before and if so do you have any pics? I understand you have to slow the bit down foe a number of reasons and am fine with it because I have made doors with this set up. Do you have any other tips for this method? The bits are expensive and I was wanting to do some homework prior to getting one ...especially pictures or pit fall tips Thanks for any help Ps. I know this will not be a true les Paul type of a carve and am fine with that.

Do not know if you resolved this or not but.....the guys over at the reranch forum do these quite a bit. I have not doen this my self (yet) but their method is to use Mod Podg glue (sp) from the local hobby lobby. Use it to glue it on, let dry, trim the edges, use two more coats on top to start to fill the grin, go then to CA to fill the transition from fabric to wood....to get it soooth, then put a bunch of sanding sealer to get the fabric filled and flat.....then add the clear. I know that is short but if you do your search on fabric finish there it pulls up a lot of info to fill the gaps.

Beautiful guitar! Can you give me more detail on your neck pocket jig? Construcion details, how do you set it up, etc. I was thinking of making one of these as well and yous looks very simple. I see you have some writing on it. Are those measurements to get the correct angles you are looking for?

I did see this one here. Indeed it will work for me but the angle application of it has me a bit nervous. If I put the bridge under it the bearing surfacs become very small and I think the router will move too much when I use the templante bit against the template. I know not to put too much pressure against the template but it still looks like it will move a the slightest pressure if I angle it. I been thinking through it and I think I can make a modified verson of Myka's as well to get what I need....just need to find some scraps to prove the concept from what is in my head!

Hello all, I read here a while ago how to figure out what the neck angle needs to be when using a tall bridge. The method was very simple and did not need to draw anything out.....I will draw it out anyway cuz it will be good practice. The method was to put the bridge on the body in the same position it will be when finished. Put your neck pocket template on the bridge and let the template fall to sit on the body at the upper bout. This forms the exact angle you need to route the pocket. Just attach the template and route to what ever depth you need to and you are done. I thought this was a brilliant idea but I have a few issues I have not been able to work out. 1. Attahcing the template to the body set at the correct angle seems like it will be difficult to do. That is to say how do I attach it to the body and have it ridged enough to use during routing? The bearing surfaces are very small to attach double stick tape too......not a lot of surface area to keep things still. The template will be resting on the corner of the body so not a lot of area there either. 2. If the two horns are not even with each other and you raise the template to the correct angle the front of the template will try to rest on both of the horns....and the template will be at a compound angle relitive to the top of the guitar. The angle will be correct relitive to the bridge but will lean towards the side with the smaller horn. I thought of trying to build a version of David Myka's jig but that looks like it is only used for one angle. Also, I was looking for something a little simpler. So....I guess I could get the angle and cut some wedges, double stick tape them to the body and template then route away. I have to be very accurate when cutting the wedges as the angle and height of both need to be the exact same. Anyway you guys have any suggestions for a jig or method that that I could use? Something to where I can incorporate the ease of getting the angle as described above and having the template be very secure while routing the pocket. Thanks for any help. Matthew

If you go to the fisman website they have a lot of info on how to wire this pickup with others using their active onboard preamps that go with this pickup.....this includes volume controls as well. Just look around and the installiations instrucions show what you are looking for. My goal is to have a passive system that is as resistant to feedback as possiable. Passive because I do not have a lot of room to put all the controls necessary for the active systems. Minimal feedback cone pickup because in my reading I understand that resonators are feedback machines. I understand that are very hard to control under loud and or live situations. I have changed my mid on the origional pickup that I listed in the origional post....I can not fit it on the cone the way I want. So I am still searching. Edit....look at their Powerchip on the fishman website.....It is the exact thing you are looking for in your set up. You can use a master volume with it as well.

Yes the neck pickup will be magnetic. The reason I picked this piezo is because it 'claims' to not need a boost to sound good....according to the site. I was hoping to just either put in a blend pot with master volume and/or the combinations I listed above with no active preamps on the guitar.