Workingman

Dan Erlewine suggests that you can cut a piece of window screen to fit the pocket and that will help the neck stay in postition. You would have a neck sitting a bit more proud of the body though. If the pocket and the neck are finished fairly glossy, you could try roughing them up a bit with sand paper.

Since you are starting with a very out of the box idea I hope this one is not to far out. How about having a neck that is set up for the double cut and a bolt on heal that is put on the neck when you are putting it on the single cut?

All tunings (except for instruments like natural horns which can only play in a few keys) are compromises. over the years various attempts have been made to "improve" on the existing standard methods (such as Buzz Fieten). I think to a degree it is just a matter of making choice and what you can live with.

Sorry if I assumed that a tool with a belt was running off a pulley. Now I am trying to get my head around how it does work.

Did the pully get pulled out of round by the bad belt? Take the belt out and let her spin whille carefully looking (and while wearing safety goggles). Good luck

I don't have much experiance here (did it one with no problems) but is it possible you just have a bad batch of filler? If it got to hot or cold in shipping it could have an effect or it could be a bad batch fom the factory.

I think you just raised my opinion of the Corvus by a large margin.

Could be a Takamine GX 100. I have only seen one in person and a few pictures and none were in that finish, not that it means much. They get good reviews at harmony central.

I can't help you beyond saying that cracks can vary from finish cracks to hairline cracks to great big uggly openings. The proper aproach to each is different. Pictures of you guitar clearly showing the problem(s) would go a long way to getting help.

IMHO finish cracks should be left alone unless they get in the way of playing comfort. Hairline craks can be repaired by the home repair person who has some experience and big cracks should be left to the experts. I would not attmept a first time crack repair on a valuable instrument.

For a proper butcher block it would have to be made of little blocks with the end grain out. I don't think that would be very stable under string pressure though

Just a thought, and others here would know better, but if you are doing only a partial refinish, I would think it would be best to go for the same material as the rest of the neck to avoid compatability problems. I suspect that a Squire neck would be some kind of poly, not nitro. A second consideration is how long does your friend want to be without the guitar. Nitro takes a long time to cure compared with poly and if you don't let it cure the finish will be gone in no time.

I could not load the pictures but the repair price is high even if it was perfect. Do you have proof the insurance agent paid anything? The US retail price on this guitar is about $700. So if the repair cost was over that (i.e. your $250 plus $500-750) it should have been considered a total loss and you should have gotton your replacement cost less your deductable. Something smells wrong here. Good luck.

Thanks for the help. I moved the wire and wrqpped it around amounting screw and now the bridge grounds just fine.

You can get a fan attachment for a hand held propane torch. The split the flame itnto 4 or 5 flames close together. They are usefull for frozen pipes too.

Do all the strings go out or just some? If it is just the C you could try a heavyer gauge as E to C is a big drop.

Why not try it without glueing the shim just to see how it works?

The ground wire on my Electra bass is not soldered to the bridge, it just rest under it giving a less than good ground. When I try to solder it on, the best I can get is an obviously cold solder joint (lumpy and dull looking). Is there any trick so that I can get a good joint when attaching a wire to such a big piece of metal or do I have to get a better soldering iron? Thanks

Could it be that you have two problems, a bad nut and fret positioning? If they are working agianst each other they could be nutralized at the 12th fret. Also you said this was a replacement nut, have you tried it with the original that came with the kit?

If you don't want to stain, you can always bleach. Bleached maple can be preety far from earth tones. Use a commerial wood bleach, not clorox.

Any decent hardware store or most home centers (home depot lowes. etc)

What happens when a guitar from your dry environment hits my (NYC) wet one? I keep a sound hole humdifier in my acoustics in the winter when the humidity get low but have never thought of protecting from excess humidty (except for out right rain).

I upgraded a yamaha pacifica fat strat and am very happy with it. I got most of the parts from e-bay, including two lace sensor pickups, and the rest from my parts bin. That and a little work dressing the fret ends has made for a nice guitar. I spent about $80 on fixing it up. If you take your time looking for bargains you can do a nice upgrade without spending more than the guitar is worth.

Great explanation Woodenspoke. I was following this thread as a router newbie and think I get it now. Thanks

Some fine wines come by the half case in nice wood boxes that would be big enough. They also come that way by the case but they would be a bit thick. Could make a nice variation on the cigar box theme.

Way cool. I thought I was the only one to have a guitar to match a car (cheap Yamaha fat strat to match my blue WRX). Come to think of it, that was the guitar that got me into modifying guitars.