Workingman

I was considering going for a one piece to instead of book match. Will this make it easierr or harder?

Thanks

The one thing I will say about veneer, regardless of job, is make sure you get some commercial veneer conditioner before doing anything. It's about $16 bucks a bottle and allows you to have a respectable result without using a vacuum press. It's also IMHO easier with the binding removed.

Welcome to the forum!

Thanks. What does the conditioner do, soften the veneer to help it follow the contours or help the glue adhere?

People who work on pottery and ceramics use a product called wax resist witch can be painted in very fine lines. The idea is that glazes (like paints) don't stick to it. You can paint very fine lines and intracite designs. You can clean it up with a damp rag if you make a mistake. I don't know if it would work on a laquer finish though. I will experiment the next time I spray.

Hi all, I am am a newbie to this site. I have done some fairly low level repairs in guitars and basses but little finish work beyond drop filling. I have aquired a butchered Electra MPC (LP Shape). It looks like someone attempted to install a Kahler using a screw driver (not even a chisel) to do the route. They then tried to "fix it with some kind of putty. I have removed the putty and intend to clean up the hole with a router and fill it with a block of mahogany; then carve it to match the contour of the top. Even after this the top is in bad shape. It has numerous gouges and scratches in addition to the bad rattle can finish.

I am considering stripping it and putting on a veneer. I understand that there are differences of opinion on the ease of using a veneer. Are there any special consideration for doing this with an LP shape (easier/harder), remove the binding first etc. Also I have always liked the idea of having a cherry topped guitar (or bass). If I do use a cherry veneer, does it require grain filling?

Thanks in advance for any responses and also for all the info I have already gathered.