Workingman

I look forward to the article. My back up bass has one screw that has stipped abit in the wood. It still holds fine and is just a back up but I would like to convert it to inserts as I have a matching neck that I would like to convert to a fretless.

Coming along nicely.

How is the Balsast Point brew? I almoat got some Saturday but was seduced away by some Founders IPA.

One of the things I like about your build threads is you give it to us warts and all.

There are some good books out there on building acoustics which could help with things like dimensions.

Always a pleasure to see what you pull out of the hat, Whalehazard....

I second that.

I was going to say congrats but given your awesome endorsees I am not sure that is enough.

I do like the look of that neck heel.

Looking very good.

I didn't realize the joint contained plastic. Hide glue will not work very well on plastic. You could try asking Ovation what to use.

Normally I would bow to Prostheta's greater experiance but on this one I would disagree. 1) I think hot hide glue is the way to go. It has the gapfilling abilites of expoxy and if you don't get it right the firsts time you can try again. There are no econd chances with epoxy. 2) Unless the fingerboad was designed to float of the body (as on some archtops) I would glue it down. The fringerboard will need the support of the body to stay rigid when you fret. Also, unless there is a substantial gap, the board likley will buzz against the body when certian notes are played.

I think there is a lot of information inthe tutorial section.

Your build threads are always great. This one will be special.

Nice details

Nice looking design and nice looking bass Oblaty. I must say that the few P basses I have played that had no countouring were PITA to play sitting.

What kind of sound do you want? What kind of music do you intend to play?

If you are making a one time copy for your own use, no they would not persue you. The first step in any IP law suit is they send you a cease and desist letter. If you don't make anymore, they have no real complaint. Besides, how would they know?

Stiendberg makes straight through pegs that are designed for high tension.

Looks good.

I did this with a Yamaha Pacifica. The neck was nice and the frets were pretty good. I did polish them and clean up some rough ends. I replaced the tuners but not the bridge. I put good pups in with a push/pull coil cut pot on the HB, improved the shielding and I now have one of my favorite guitars to play.

Nice and much deserved win on GOTM.

I went for the guitar I would most want to play so Francine got my vote. That said in a differnt lineup there wasn't one that I would not have been proud to vote for much less make.

Reading this and hearing of other problems that custom guitar makers have makes me think some kind of a short primer would be handy to give to potential customers. I am thinking somthing that reviews the options that they can take home to think about rather than the kid in the candy shop approach that some customers seam to be taking.

I belong to a forum of for owners of Matsumoku guitars. OK if I let them know? I am sure someone would take it on.

Just slap two single coils togehter in the bridge postition, put a sing in the neck position and a realy ugly pickgaurd on it.....

Charge double and take you name off it.

This is a big topic of discussion in the upright bass world. They call the string between the bridge and the tail piece the afterlength. The tension is the same but strings have some elasticity. The longer a string is, the more elastic it is. Some of the elasticity of the afternegth is available on the normal playing part of the string.

I have a decent amount of walnut growing at our place in Vermont. It branches lower than most maple. The branches are less straight but much bigger. A lot of the walnut harvested in my area comes from farmyard trees which while large tend to grow much less straight than forest trees. This may account for the difficulty finding straight grain on Walnut. Also most people using walnut love the swirly grain so there is no incentive for the mill to cut it with the maximum straight grain.

I have been thinking about birch as a neck wood.