Boocan

A volume pedal is CRUCIAL to any pedal rig in my opinion.

in ear monitors or a rack tuner in your rig are excellent alternatives. Rock on dude.

that's crazy, my friend wants me to build him a 5 string, tuned EADGC, also with a D-tuner. Personally I don't like the D-tuner. I can drop to D in mid play, by ear with a normal machinehead.

Although the body seems to flow in a certain way, I would suggest not angling the pickups like that. Just doesn't seem right for some reason. Just my 2 cents.

Your favourite guitarists are gay +1

Thanks guys! These were the answers I was expecting. Looks like a nice 6 1/4'' benchtop is in my future- and I'll go get the blades professionally done too!

I mean planer. They have blades in them, like a hand held jointer. I'm just wondering if they are truly accurate/ would be good for building guitars with. Jointers are so damn expensive, if I could do the task with one of these handheld things, I might just try it.

I've always been uncertain about hand held power planers. What is your opinion/past experience with said tools? Are they a good avenue to venture down in relation to Luthiery? Should I just buy a jointer? How would a power planer make wood square?

I was gonna hard maple cap a soft maple core with a mahogany neck. 4 string bass; any thoughts on the wood combination while we're at the discussion.

Alright, so this is probably an ultimate dummy question, but: Maple most commonly used in necks = hard eastern maple, correct? Maple used in bodies = soft maple? Have only ever dealt with hard maple in my necks, but thinking of making a maple body, and for some reason I can't picture using hard maple for the body...it would be heavy and ridiculous on my tools. Am I correct in assuming that soft maple is the way to go?

Cool radius jig man! I'm gonna build one of those! Jealous of that nice bookmatched cocobolo you have!

For some reason I don't have a picture of it at full completion... but here is one that was about 75% done. And here is a second one, lefty for my buddy Shayne. hope I did the Image linking thing correctly...

ironically enough did that with the first bass I made. But im trying to go through my wood pile and clear out what is left. A bunch of pieces big enough to be necks if scarfed...hence the current situation.

Yea, the stock blade really is junk. I've considered selling the saw and just using a jigsaw for doing body cutout, use a handsaw/plane or tablesaw/router to do everything else. The little ryobi bandsaw doesn't have enough throat room or height for resawing any fair sized boards- I might as well have saved up a bit longer and bought the delta 14''.

Thank's everyone- big help! I'm going to try the tapering jig on a tablesaw method first- if that doesn't pan out successful then I will build the sliding board jig for tablesaw. And the routing jig for planing the surface is great! I've only recently in the past few days come to realize that routers can be very useful in planing surfaces! Multi-purpose tool or what, eh?

I have the exact same router kit, got it from home depot- very nice little set up- love the guide!

Alright, so as it stands I have completed 1 build so far. A 32'' scale 4 string mahogany/bubinga bass with maple neck and cocobolo fretboard. It is by no means perfect, but it makes sound and scores about a 7/10 on playability. When I made it I had access to a full shop, with great professional woodworking tools. Now I no longer have that luxury and am stuck in an 8x10 shed with shite for tools. I'm about to dive into another build (hell-bent on perfection this time) But I've found a snag. I have a 9'' ryobi bandsaw with an inability to adjust the blade guides to keep the thing from wandering and twisting like crazy. And when I go to do the cut for scarf join on a neck it mangles it completely. SO The question to you gentlemen (and ladies if present) is: Is there an easier/more effective way to cut a nice straight line on a 15 degree angle through a 3'' high piece of wood? Please help me stop mangling my maple/padauk/whatever! -Chris