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  • Birthday 01/16/1973

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  1. Your right about that because the steel one is just a POA because you can't see though it.
  2. Moving on to finger boards. I took piece 5/4 flame maple stock and butterflied it to find a great finger board. I used a 17" band saw with 1" resaw blade to split these. Then on to the most hellacious part of guitar building... radiusing the fretboard. It is a grulling tast that you feel in your shoulders . I tend to do it for a few minutes move on to something else. then come back do some more. I slotted the fret boards next on a dedicated old dewalt radial armsaw and then back to the shaper again and trim out the fret boards. Now lets see em roughed together
  3. Than cutter porn shall be had! I picked up this beauty used for $250 for the 3HP model I bought the cutter and bearing new from Shellix for around $200 but this thing cuts like butter all most tearout even on the Jatoba i Had to remove some of the steel dust control shroud to fit some of the tight curves I needed to do
  4. Next we have some wood selection... I have had this one piece Jatoba I have been dying to use. Its just big enough for 2 bodies I cut out the bodies on a combo of the 14" band saw with a 3/16" blade to rough it out and then on to the shaper with Heilx byrd cutting head Poplar and maple top I tend to make neck blanks in bulk just cause it is much easier and I like to have a selection when needed I settled on one with purpleheart and one jatoba and these both got the same treatment of the small band saw and shaper
  5. I have used them in several builds (all 5 part laminations) and have had great results. No twisting or tuning issues.
  6. I was worried about the weight since one time I made a 335 style body out of it and and even hallowed out it was almost 11.5 pounds total. But i called the guy and he looking for something "beefy" and feels like you ave a guitar on. So he is getting what he wished for hahaha
  7. Getting ready to do the next set of guitars. While I was out on tour The Rev from the band Success played one of my basses and ordered a set of teles with some mods ... So here are the common wants no pick guards , one single coil , set necks, one volume no tone from there he let me have some freedom. Rev caster one Poplar body with maple top Purpleheart /maple neck with maple fretboard Revcaster two One piece Jatoba body maple / jatoba neck with a jatoba fretboard But first we need to do a little design work First step we need that Classic tele
  8. I debated this one alot. I had not used them in the past and it seemed to not be a problem or caused any tuning issues on tour ( and I am rough on guitars). So angled the edges to avoid and indention in the wood. This may have been a real bad idea but we are going to find out. I know on the next project I will use them more because of rubbing compound in the indents thats horrible to get out.
  9. Guitar Name: MollyBody: Mahogany with Maple CapNeck : 5 ply Maple / Jatoba Fretboard: Jatoba with Maple binding 22 frets no inlay with Aluminum side dotsScale 24.75” Weight 10lbs 1ozPair of late 70’s Ibanez Super 58 pick ups Interesting features Hand made brass nut. Brass block to add some mass in the ass if you will. All control covers and truss rod covers are held on with magnets to make access easy and fast on tour.This was my 5th scratch build (the first 4 I built 2 of each at the same time so this might be my third build)This was built in my own shop in my basement it was also finished i
  10. The buffer has worked out great, have not had any issues with it (knock on wood)
  11. One of the things I love about using stained tops is that I can fix them pretty easy is I burn though them while level sanding. as you can see in the before and after pic. A couple quick wipes of stain So after another 3 coats and a level sanding from 500,800,1000,1200 It was off to the buffing wheel that I built from my drill press (there is tutorial pinned in this site) I moved on to electronics which were a standard 1 volume one tone and a 3 way switch and a set of old Ibanez super 58's from an old artist I was saving. I then put it on the home made stew mac fret jig and did all the fret
  12. So then on to the finish which was was desided on sunburst-ish see though blue. So I sanded the body down to 320 Step one mask off the natural binding and the neck binding. Then with a cotton rag and water based stain I wipe on the black for reasons one to make the grain pop in color and to raise the grain to sand flush. So add the black And sand off the black Then add the blue Then logos which was just a basic mask and sprayed with an airbrush After the color got done i scrapped the binding for any seepage I used a 2 part clear post catalyzed lacquer
  13. Well it has been awhile but sometimes life gets in the way or our mental health but hey with that fixed or at least medicated lets get back to building. Now on the last step I jumped the gun and glued the fret board on before putting in the side dots not the end of the world, but it makes the job harder. I use aluminum for my side dot so the shine up really nice I got all the sanding and carving done After I drilled out the string holes and for the bridge. It was then I realized I did the neck pocket to deep or not enough pocket angle either way a recessed bridge can fix that. BUT..... in t
  14. it's actually willow and purpleheart. the pic doesn't do justice of how white it is. MInd you it will look better when i get the scratches out
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