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MiKro

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Posts posted by MiKro

  1. Switch Help

    in Electronics Chat

    Posted

    I just need to know what kind of On/Off switch i could use to power a small series of led lights with a 9v battery. I don't know much about this but if anyone has done a small project like this before please let me know what you used.

    Thanks

    First off a 9vbattery will fry an LED unless you add resistance. Try this tutorial on LEDs

    LINK

    This may help you with where you are going.

    MK

  4. 6" Jointers - Jet Vs. Ridgid - Opinions?

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    I'm getting ready to buy a 6" jointer. I've narrowed it down to the Jet JJ-6CSX and the Ridgid JP0610. The two appear to have very similar specs. I can get the Jet for about $360(US), or the Ridgid for $399.

    Anyone have experience with or thoughts about either or both of these?

    I have a Jet bandsaw and a Ridgid planer, both of which are great tools, so I'm confident buying another tool of either brand.

    I've seen the Ridgid in person and it seems solid; haven't seen that particular model Jet yet, but I'm impressed with most of their other stuff.

    Buy the Jet. It's more upgradeable if you chose. YOU can get a byrd/helix indexable cutter head for it for around $300. These are very usefull if you plan on jointing high figured wood. ie: Quilted, flamed maple or other species or burls. will most definitely help with minimizing tearout.

    JUst my .02cents

    MK

  5. Finish For Purpleheart.

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    I just bought some purpleheart and I'm going to be building a Neck-Thru guitar with a Carvin neck... I was wondering what kind of finish I should use on the Purpleheart. I want something slightly darker to bring out the color and give it a nice glossy finish...

    YOU do realize that purple heart turns brown with age?

    mk

  8. Prem-ade Neck-through Neck With Longer Body?

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Okay, I'm in the middle of the grand learning process with regards to building my own guitar... it's a heck of a lot more complicated than I ever realized, and I've been reassessing some of my plans and whatnot, and I've come up with an idea which I'm not 100% certain about.

    Basically, I want to build a copy of the Ibanez Iceman, and I want to do it neck-through. But, I don't feel confident enough in my skills as a woodworker to make it 100% from scratch, so I figured I'd buy one of the Carvin premade neck-through necks. *However*, the problem is, the Carvin neck only has ~13" of wood past the end of the fretboard, but the Iceman body is significantly longer than that (from what I recall... I'll be getting a template and actually measuring a real iceman soon to be certain).

    so, can I hope to have any success at all adding a 3rd piece of wood past the end of the neck-through body? A "third" wing as it were, almost a "tail", lol.

    I can imagine there being some minor difficulties with regards to gluing that piece in; I'd have to glue one wing and the body-length extension onto one side of the neck-through, then make sure the other side of the extension and the side of the neck-through body are flat, and gluing the other wing on.

    Additionally, besides it being physically functional, is there any hope of it looking decent enough to support a semitransparent finish rather than hiding it all below a solid color? Has anyone ever seen a guitar with an extension like that? I have a really vague recollection of seeing something like that at one point in the past, perhaps on some BC Rich or something, but I couldn't think of anything- most neck-throughs actually go all the way through...

    I feel kind of like a cheater using a premade neck, but after talking to a local luthier, it does seem like for my first project, my hope of success is significantly increased by not doing it ALL myself. I know this is also probably an extremely unusual idea, and probably not even the best one compared to just going for bolt-on or set-neck, but I'd like to do something slightly 'different' without stepping too far out of the bounds of sanity. It does seem like I'd get many of the tonal benefits of the through-body design while avoiding some of the other potential issues, but it does have the potential of looking a bit "hackish"....

    I searched around on the forum here without seeing anything similar, so hopefully this isn't too stupid an idea and question! :D

    So, comments? suggestions? is it an idea worth continuing to research? or should I change tracks and go a different route?

    (edit: I hope my managing to misspell the topic of the post isn't a dark foreshadowing, hehe)

    I agree with Mattia,

    But I would not worry so much about the neck at this point. YOU will have many options after you know the true measurements. you can always us it as a long tenon setneck and cap it. So chill a bit and read. study your options, then move forward slowly.

    MK

  9. How To Remove A Drill Chuck?

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    I have a dead drill, the trigger is messed and I cant get it out. It has a nice rubber chuck though, Id like to swap it for the crappy plastic chuck my current cordless has. Anyone know how to do this? Thx!!

    BTW, chucks are not all interchangeable. Depends on the type of chuck and manufactor. THere are many types of fitting. morse taper #1. M2, different threaded types. so don't be disappointed if it doesn't fit.

    MK

  10. Routing Confustion

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Hi guys, I'm working on my first guitar and I have my design pretty set, what I'm confused about is I've read all over every article I can about how to build a custom body, but nowhere does it say where to rout the holes for the pickups or electronics on the back, nor how deep they should be. Also does it matter how far back the bridge is placed? Thanks guys.
    May I suggest that you buy and read Melvin Hiscocks book," Make you own electric guitar". I think you will find all of your answers there. If not, you will know where to look, as well as specific questions to ask. I'm not trying to be an A$$, just trying to help you with questions you have that are so loaded, that each instance requires a different answer.

    Sincerely,

    Mike

  11. Multimeter Question

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    if continuity is all you need, then a flashlight bulb and a AA 1.5volt battery and some wire will do that. just put it all in series, and have 2 leads. I think you know what I mean

    If the bulb lights up your good to go if not then?

    LOL

    :D)))

    MK

    Hey Mike! Yep, that's how I've done it in a pinch as well, though I use christmas tree lights since I have so damn many of them.

    LMAO!!! Well what can I say? XMAS LIGHTS! BTW Joseph, you can get a nice Multimeter at Tanner electronices off of 35E at Valwood in Carrollton for about $5 LOL. Nice to hear from you. Hope soccer season and the kids are treating you well?

    Hope to see you soon and have a cold one.

    Mike

  12. Multimeter Question

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    I think almost any multimeter will have this, but the truly indispensible bit for me is audible continuity checker. Nothing says, "yup, that's continuous!" like a shrill annoying beep.

    +1

    if continuity is all you need, then a flashlight bulb and a AA 1.5volt battery and some wire will do that. just put it all in series, and have 2 leads. I think you know what I mean

    If the bulb lights up your good to go if not then?

    LOL

    :D)))

    MK

  14. Why Does My Fingerboard Not Have A Nut Slot?

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    I can confirm that the Stewmac boards don't have the zero fret --Russ is thinking of LMII, who leave that on.

    So the end of that Stewmac board IS the nut slot. You can always add your own--take a piece of wood, shape it and glue it in.

    That's interesteing since the 25" template that Stewmac sells has the zero fret / nut face slot. Since I've never purchased a board from them I didn't know that.

    Thanks

    MK

  17. Repairing A Chip

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    Thanks Mikro-- he's not a guitar boffin, so when he says "lacquer" he probably means "plasticky guitar clearcoat".

    It's on a G&L guitar, if that means anything.

    Greg

    No Problem,

    That's why I said," If he is POSITIVE" LOL:)) since lacquer will not adhere to poly coats. Poly is harder to get a good chip repair fixed and look right.

    MK

  18. Repairing A Chip

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted · Edited by MiKro

    If he is POSITIVE that it is a lacquer finish. Then I would lightly sand the area around the chip and drop fill with more lacquer. Allow to cure a day or two and sand again, until level with 600 grit ( this process may take a few applications of this). Then wait about 2 to 3 weeks and finish sand with starting at 1000 grit and progress up to at least 2000 grit and then polish.

    But that's just my opinion.

    MK

  22. First Build Finally Done

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted · Edited by MiKro

    Nice job! What pickups do you have in there?

    Interesting that you glued the tenon down underneath the top.

    Thanks Erik,

    The pickups are from Carvin, the neck is a H22N Holdsworth model, and the bridge is a C22T vintage.

    The neck PU has a nice bluesy sound and the bridge PU has a Tele type of sound to it.

    MK

    Thanks JonSilver I'm glad it's finally done though. LOL:)) Now on to another build and see if I can use what I learned NOT TO DO on the next one and speed the process up LOL:))

    MK

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