MiKro

Very Cool!

Start getting the lists together, then we can work on pics and descriptions . This sounds like fun and a great learning tool for all.

Mike

Jon, PM or email me about maybe getting together for a beer and working on this.

MK

First off the bandsaw should only have 2 wheels. Not 3. THe newer 2 wheel bandsaws will give you decent performance within limits. 3 wheel saws are hard to adjust, the blades break more often than not and other anomolies. Use a good blade first off on the 2 wheel type and they will do your basic cutouts with no problem as long as you don't force the cut. Also your tension on the blade must not be slack. As far as benchtop drill presses They will work fine for none heavy side sanding using a robosander ( suggest that you get 1 with the lowerbearing and mount it, this will take some side load off the chuck which is usually press fitted to a tapered shaft) and will do tuner holes quite well when drilling. I would add a larger table of MDF or something for support though. As far as drilling string throughs, the neck depth of the drill press may be questionable.

If you can wait and save some $ then I would go with something like the Grizz 14" ultimate with riser, or the Rikon 14" as my first Bandsaw. Again only if dollars allow and time as well.

Hope this helps

Mike

Yeah, i was going to say, my Home Depot doesn't carry maple.

The question of morality:

1- Does the fact checking is an industry norm exonerate him despite specifically mentioning this board had NONE, twice.

2- Does his kindness with pulling the other auction cover the other "lie" about checking, or should they be viewed as two seperate cases, in which case I'd have no choice but the judge him guilty on the lie.

Chris

Even though this has been solved, I'd like to throw some things out there.

A lie is a lie regardless of generosity, this is the main reason I do not buy woods off of Ebay. Every board I have purchased has had some kind of defect not listed in the auction that has either prevented me using it in it's specific purpose or has caused more wood to be planed off, leading it to be useless for it's intended purpose again. I know this makes me sound like a hypocrite, coming from a guy that sells wood on Ebay (see my signature). But at least I list the defects.

So I think we should have a wood information list (defects, phrases etc.) stickied somewhere:

Bark incursion, wormholes, sniping, checking, chipping, jointed, drum sanded etc.etc. As I am still learning a good deal of these words used in woodworking. It would definitely help because I have learned almost all of these (and then some) from woodworking magazines.

I agree,

Since the MILF thing got a good laugh, I was also thinking that a good reference would not hurt either. So Jon would you like to work with me on a reference for these type of wood issues? I think with pictures and descriptions maybe we might be able to help those without the knowledge. I have many years of woodworking experience and will be more than happy to cause problems for photos if needed. LOL:))) I'm sure I can find scraps to do this with. How about it Jon, are you willing as well? This may take a little time but I think would be a worthwhile project.

Mike

Chris,

All is well!! You at least asked and learned. Not a problem. we have all been there and felt, well like you do right now. Not a worry. You are not alone. We all learn from our mistakes. Hell ,I didn't know what a MILF was until recently. Damn, I know a lot of them LOL:) so don't feel stupid because you are not. On the other side of the coin, take some tie to visit some woodworking sites and learn.

What I mean is do you understand, SNIPE? This is also caused by a planer , drum sander. and jointer. THis and other subtle things can effect the wood you use. There are many more things as well. it's just a learning curve and don't kick yourself in the a$$ over it. We are here to help and I respect your input on things, (as stupid as they may be, my questions) your response as well.

So chill out, relax and we all care and understand.

Merry Christmas BUD!!!!

Sincerely,

Mike

HI Chris,

I'm also convivced that you are refering to tearout or chipping from the planer. This occurs from the random direction of grain in curly, birdseye and quilted maple and other woods. Checking is as Setch described. The end grain is drying faster thus causing it to separate or check. Usually any type of figured wood should be dimensioned with a sander for the last few passes or having the knives on the planer shapened for this type of cut. The angle is different on the planer knives or jointer as well. Also indexable helix cutters produce a very nice surface for dimensioning figured wood as well. Hope this helps

Mike

MiKro, you are the best! Thank you!

~David

You are welcome David, and have a great Holiday with your family and friends.

Sincerely,

Mike

Thanks MiKro! This is a big help. I sent you an email with my info.

~David

ps: Thanks to you too Scott. I appreciate the offer!

No problem for a friend. Checking email and will confirm shipping with you.

MIKE

David I'M having some problem with email( got yours but mine not sending) ???? so I'll be shipping Monday or Tuesday at latest.

MIke

Package shipped Merry Christmas David!!!

MK

Thanks MiKro! This is a big help. I sent you an email with my info.

~David

ps: Thanks to you too Scott. I appreciate the offer!

MIKE

Thanks for the links, I appreciate it. I didn't even think of pen blanks!

The wood is going to be made into little knobs for the slidercontrols on a Fishman preamp. I am mounting it in the side of an acoustic guitar I am building and the little plastic gray knobs it comes with have to go. The guitar has bloodwood binding so it is either this or ebony. I think the bloodwood is the way to go.

This is the guitar.

Mikro, I will wait until I hear from you.

~David

Hi David,

I have a piece 3/4" by 3" by 12" email me with shipping info mike@ampcore.com. will ship on Monday or Tuesday.

MK

I am looking for a piece of bloodwood that is approximately 3/4" square and 6" long. All I can find are whole boards. If anyone cann help me out I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

~David

mk

I don't know if someone already posted it but I think is a very interesting video about the recreation of Clapton's Crossroads 335 and maybe you'll be interested...

Here's the link:

Link

Being that "Clapton is God", and I being a follower of God. ( pun intended) A very nice video. I was suprised, that no video of the finish wear process?? Guess they don't want to give away any secrets. LOL:))

Thanks for the link.

MK

You don't use spalted wood for fretboards, stabilized or not, terrible idea.

Good find otherwise.

Thanks Drak,

I'll remember that and use the smaller pieces accordingly and not for fretboards. Would look nice though!!!

Might have to make some small boxes and stuff for EBAY!!

Thanks again,

MK

Well done man.

See you in five years when it's dried :-D

It's already at 20% MC so it won't be that long LOL:)

I'm looking at the trunk and considering a top made from a slice. All endgrain on the top. Might be interesting???? Thinking about adding some stale beer/peters mix with a plastic wrap to get the spalt more active since the fungus is already there. The trunk is large enough for a full body cut on the end grain. Never seen that done. Might be very cool???

I also see a lot of potential fretboards, stabilzed of course with CA or epoxy in these as well.

We'll see what happens.

MK

damn i wish i could find anytype of usable wood at a roadside

Drive around and keep on looking They are out there.

MK

just found some pecan today!!!! LOL!!! about a mile away, most is small (4" to 8" diameter) and will go to the smoker for meats, the large stuff ( 10" to 16"). Who knows??? I figure about 60 bd ft of large stuff after milling

mk

Nice work mister. I think it would be fun to play with spalt, but I don't have much experience with it. I fear I would end up with a useless log. Have fun with it. I would love to hear how it turns out and some suggestions on how you go about the process.

Peace,Rich

Thanks Rich,

The first step is locate all the nails and other metal things in the wood before cutting. I already missed 1 very small nail and now have to resharpen my chainsaw.

LOL:)

mk

This may sound like a silly question, but is there a proper way to mount a drill bit onto a drill press chuck?

The reason I ask is, I was tring to drill to very close tolerances, such as a 17/64" hole, and found that the hole was not quite the same size. It came out slighly different everytime, no matter which hole I used to tighten the chuck. So, the drilled hole ended up too big on the final, actual hole. Hmmm????

I noticed the bit would wobble at the tip every time I remounted it.

What's the key to this simple yet, puzzling delima?

Thanks,

Mike

HG is correct with the method he described for proper drill chuck tightening, Your problem is more characteristic of what Russ described though. Either a bent bit or runout on the drill press.

MK

man this board ROCKS!!!

i love the prompt replies

thanks for the info mikro.

i assumed that would be the best way to go about it.

i'm really only concerned with the one goint through the tuner hole, the other is really only cosmetic.

cheers

darren

Shouldnt be a real problem. If you must cut it, use a band saw or a very fine/thin saw and joint the edge,rejoin and or redrill the holes and/or fill them with a dowel and redrill.

Since you have expressed that you will be using a color coat this should not present a problem and should fix the problem. I'm sure others have a other ways they may attck the problem as well.

mk

edited to add: BTW if you cut with a saw you will need to sand the edges flat and add a veneer to one edge to make up the thickness of the blade kerf. Any hardwood veneer that does not have a paper backing will work. Apporx 1/32nd to 1/16 thickness.. Glue that to one edge then sand it back until the wing fits as close as possible. this will minimize the edge sanding for the headstock shape. Hope this helps.

MIKe

hi guys

i bought this crappy bass from a pawn shop last week so i could practice working on guitars before the "real deal".

as you can see the previous owner "customised" it by adding (very roughly) a neck pup.

i've already filled that, stripped it and primed it ready for a new finish (solid colour)

my problem is that the headstock has a crack through it where the glue joint is coming apart (that, and also the fact that it has 2L/2R tuners rather than 4 in-line). They are schallers though, might use them on a different project.

is it a matter of applying some titebond and clamping, or should i remove the wings (top one is coming apart as well, just not as noticible in pic) altogether and the re-glue??

the face of the headstock will have a solid colour when i refinish it (i may paint the entire neck, haven't decided yet)

any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

darren.

I would remove the wings and clean the joints and regule if that is possible without to much damage, then you know it's right. Just use patience to remove them so you minimize the damage. A good glue joint should not come apart. So these appear to be inferior and should hopefully come apart easily with some steam and heat.

Just my 2Cents.

MK

Well done man.

See you in five years when it's dried :-D

It's already at 20% MC so it won't be that long LOL:)

I'm looking at the trunk and considering a top made from a slice. All endgrain on the top. Might be interesting???? Thinking about adding some stale beer/peters mix with a plastic wrap to get the spalt more active since the fungus is already there. The trunk is large enough for a full body cut on the end grain. Never seen that done. Might be very cool???

I also see a lot of potential fretboards, stabilzed of course with CA or epoxy in these as well.

We'll see what happens.

MK

damn i wish i could find anytype of usable wood at a roadside

Drive around and keep on looking They are out there.

MK

just found some pecan today!!!! LOL!!! about a mile away, most is small (4" to 8" diameter) and will go to the smoker for meats, the large stuff ( 10" to 16"). Who knows??? I figure about 60 bd ft of large stuff after milling

mk

Hi Everyone,

Just a gloat on a roadside find.

Found these down the street, a neighbor had cut down.

Spalted maple!!!

spalt 1

spalt 2

I made one cut with the chainsaw and slabed out a few pieces.

Looks like I might have a good find here.

testcut1

Testslab

Thanks for looking,

Mike

Some Times I wonder, other Times i'm in awe!

MK

Hugh Thank You to you Brian, for being inspired to keep this thing going.

I think a forum section for Industry people would be really great.

Thanks Brian

I am looking to buy two electric guitar nuts. I will try to get measuements, but they look like the normal strat/tele style nuts.

We are all Electric guitars nuts, but I don't think anyone is for sale ???

Seriously though, Nuts are available from many sources? StewMac and others. Are you wanting some freebie Blank material? If so contact the makers of Corian and get some free samples.

MK

Any suggestions on how to fix this mistake? This was my first go-round with tapering a neck with a router. The clamps weren't down tight enough and eventually slipped. Theres really only one bad area, pictured in the first picture. The rest of the mistakes will be taken out when rounding over the neck. Sorry about the crappy pictures, all you really need to see is what's in the thumbnail.

My only ideas are epoxy or glue + sawdust.

MK

+5 or more on the start over. REDO THE JOINT and dont roll it so tight LOL:)))) One more note remove the stems as they cause the paper tear. LMAO!!!!!!!!

mk

I mean... uh... shame on you.

I know I'm BAD

Don't take it all to hard...I think that everyone one here is just poking fun at you. We all make mistakes in the shop.

I would certainly heed some of the advice here though.

Do your cutting and shaping after the joining.

The main reason being, because its a whole lot easier to clamp something at a 90° angle than a rounded/profiled neck. Have you considered making a clamping jig?

Good luck with it.

BTW I like the headstock design.

I agree with John, we all make mistakes so heed the advice given by those you have asked and redo the joint. No PUN Intended this time. You will thank yourself later for doing it right.

Mike

Hey Mike! Yeah, I've been busy. Saturday marks the end of the soccer season, and life should get back to normal for me. I've been building a home theater at my house, which took up a lot of my time. It's functional as of now, but not where I want it to be. We're now watching Lost in HD and movies on a 112" screen. The kids love it.

I'll give you a ring soon to set up a time to look at the wood.

Sounds good See ya soon

MK