MiKro

ok, I just glued the headstock in a scarfjoint... the problem is that the cut was not made perfectly and now I have a huge ugly gap between them... I tried filling it with maple dust and little particles (from sanding) and carpenter's wood glue mixed then sanding it but it looks different than the rest of the maple, because the glue dries a bit yellow...

any suggestions?

pics:

the headstock with mahogany veneer on it

one gap, relatively small (comparing to the other one, at least )

the big gap... not for the weak-hearted

please help me

+5 or more on the start over. REDO THE JOINT and dont roll it so tight LOL:)))) One more note remove the stems as they cause the paper tear. LMAO!!!!!!!!

mk

I scored a Fender Harvard Reverb II amp last week for $10 from a friend. NICE little amp, its my main clean tone amp now. Love the sound of a clean Fender amp.

That's a sweet deal for any decent amp. Nice! Did I mention I only paid $175 for the RG550?

I find the easiest way to stumble across amazing deals is to not have any money. I have come across the most killer steals, when my bank account is drained and can't do a thing about it. I am talking a JCM800 head and 412 cab for a measly 200 bucks. =( A super nice little Gibson SG for 175. I could go on but those are just two I ran across this year. I also had a friend who was selling a great Les Paul standard with a pickup upgrade ( I forget what kind but he was chasing the Allman Bros tone and dropped something like 300 bucks in pickups for his LP) and offered it to me for 800 cuz he needed cash in a hurry.

Yeah, that's the way it usually works for me too, but this one got posted on payday. I'm still jazzed, and really enjoying it.

Where you been? Call me, lets get together for a cold one. I just cut up alot of maple and unsundrie other wood getting ready for ebay. You might want to look before it goes online.

Mike

So me an another member were thinking about ways to aquire free lumber and this dawned on us...

If you do not send us tons of free guitar lumber (that means you!) we will be forced to....

RELEASE TREE HUGGING HIPPIES IN THE GREATEST MAPLE, AND MAHOGANY LUMBER AREAS OF THE WORLD. (and all over Africa for more good coverage in general).

Chris

Is Goldie Hawn going to show up?

If so I really want to do her while shes hugging the tree.

LOL:)))))

MK

Hi - I'm looking for the routing templates to make a toggle cavity similiar to the ones on most gibson (Les pauls for example).

Anyone know where I can buy one? Thanks

Lets' see if you are willing to purchase, then a $10 donation to PG will get you access to the file downloads that have the LP specs.

Hope this helps!!!!

MK

I just bought a craftman 4.0hp vac and that thing is incredible! No more dust in my workshop and no more dust in my music studio

I've gone this route already; you'll have to replace that filter cylinder pretty often to keep the airflow up. I eventually got fed up and got myself a proper Delta 1200 cfm unit.

+1 on the proper dust collector.

MK

That is awesome. Thank you so much for taking your time to help me out.

Hi Godin,

Not Sure where you are in Texas, but if you need to use some tools I'm in Dallas and you are welcome to come by and use my thickness sander and whatever else you need. Just Email or PM me and let me know.

Mike

I am thinking of a 12 string acoustic fir my next project.

Rather than heat and bend the sides I thought of getting 0.6mm thick veneers and glue together 3 or 4 pieces to make the sides.

0.6mm veneers will bend easily enough, clamp 2 together in a body mould and add others when set.

What do you guys think of the idea ?

Jaycee, While I think that bending the sides may be less work, I would think that lams would work as well. Espesicially if both sides are the same contour. I would make the lams oversize and cut it down the middle then run on a jointer for the width/thickness. This would give you 2 sides equal.

I hope I'm making some since as this is how I have seen bent lam rockers made for chairs. So if the rockers or (sides in your case) need to be 2in high and 3/4 thick then the lams are made to the curvature of the form 3/4 in thick and 4 1/2 high. Then run through a bandsaw to make 2 pieces 2 1/4 wide/high, then jointed to 2in. Now they are a perfect match. well just my thoughts!!!!!!!! Hope that helps and if not just think I'm just a rambling old fart!!! LOL:)_)))))

Mike

I don't get it...using heat, you would have had the board off, intact, in five minutes.

The board was no good. It was installed wrong so that the frets were at an angle to the centerline. therefore no need to save the board. This process took maybe 20mins and the neck is ready and sanded for the new board.

Oh Well !! Like I said this is another method. LOL:)))

Thanks for the input Mick.

Mike

I'm not sure this really qualifies as a tutorial but here is my method of removing a screwed up fretboard from a bolt on neck.

As you will see the fretboard was installed incorrectly therefore no need to salvage the fretboard. This Neck was purchased on EBAY and the seller would not take refund or exchange this neck. I will not name names, but please be careful when purchasing. Even though they have numerous Positives.

My Nephew bought this neck as well as a body from someone. The body will be the next segment on fixing the unscrupulous sellers parts( broken screws in the holes).

Hope this helps someone. See link below

Mike K

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/fretboard.html

Now I have been shopping for my guitar parts for ever. I have been trying to get really nice stuff. I am using snakewood,quilted maple, and black limba. Anywayz I am about to buy the top for the guitar and um well I am kinda tossed between 2 tops. one is 500 and the other is 350. the one that is 350 has the 1 written above and the one with the 2 is 500. what do u guys think ill go with whatever u guys say. I just cant make the choice. I just cant tell if the other one is worth the extra 150 bucks.

tell me which one

quilted maple pics

hey can u guys see the pics? i am a lil new at this

Tell you what for 500 I'll send you a flamed maple brick that is at least 24 ins long, 3 1/2 to 4 inches thick and 8 or better inches wide and is 5a grade ,weighs aleast 15+ lbs and you will get at least 3 or 4 tops out of it. The price is absurd for those pieces.!!!!!!!!!! They are quite nice but you can get "Billets from the GODS" from Grizzly that are that nice or better for 300.

Sry I just don't see the expense for this. I have mahogany that is as nice and not worth that much?????????

Just my 2 cents.

MK

edited to add:

I'm not trying to be an a$$. I just hate see someone get screwed. You seem to know what you want and if that is it, buy it. I and the rest will not judge you on your preference, but that pricing seems to be outrageous for that wood. I hope you have experience using highly figured maple as it can be a real "Beach" working with it. I've built cabinets for many years with maple and The highly figured wood will still causes problems for me when I least expect it and that will cost a great piece of wood at times.

Sincerely Mike

Hi folks I am cleaning out my shop of unwanted tools and came across a 1/2 horse Ryobi router that has been sitting in a drawer for too long.This router almost ended up in a pond after it creeped down and destroyed a very expensive Corion countertop.I would like to give this to someone that needs a router that cannot afford to blow the bucks.All I ask is that you really need a router and your budget just can,t cover one.I am relying on the goodness of human nature and the people of this great site to see that this tool goes to a truly deserving person.Please Please Please let this go to a person who really needs one and can,t at this time afford one.Now to the bad.I would not give away a perfect power tool for no reason .This thing has lots of power but it's finesse is poor.It seems to drop when under power.A good clamp or a whole loota duct tape might fix it but I work in a cabinet shop where this won't do.The lock off button was disabled on it's 4th pass[warranty means crap when you are on jopbsite and have to be gone].All I ask is for shipping from my house in Hamilton Ont.I would rather someone picked it up to make for the best freebie but anywhere in the US or Can is good.Sorry UK but it is not worth the shipping costs.I trust in the goodness of people and hope that this tool goes to someone that truly needs this Thanks Rich.PM me don't clog up the forum

I would say that Luke is probly a good canidate for this as he is a younger enthusiast and appears limited on funds if you read his posts.

Just my 2cents?)))

Mike

Hi

Has anybody tried heating a bending iron with a hot air gun.

Regards

Greg

yes indeed..that's exactly how i heat mine. i have a length of 2" galvanized pipe mounted in a floor flange snip>>>>>>

Hi Greg,

You do realize that heating Galvanized pipe can be deadly???? I do hope you are using lots of ventilation and cross breeze, as well as being outside? I'm just trying to prevent you or any one else from getting deathly ill or possibly dying from the fumes that expelled from galvanized steel after reaching 500 degrees. Just wanted to post the warning, I'm not chastizing just want you and everyone to be careful and be safe..

Sincerely,

Mike K

Hello All.

Well for starters I have downloaded the plans, It is much more complex than one would think. I will say that after the first read GF has covered things well and appears to be well illustrated. There are a few areas that are somewhat fuzzy, but with understanding of what you are trying to do, makes since. I will address these to GF after I have had time to reread a few times and make sure I'm not missing something. This is only to help improve the end results. LOL:))

So long for now and I'll get an update as soon as possible.

To Guitar Frenzy: Just a note to you.

It would be nice to have full size plans as well as PDF as an option, some people prefer this. I know that would add cost, but some would pay additional for it. Just a suggestion.

Sincerely,

Mike

This DIY Guitar Carver is what I am talking about. Anyone want to give it a try and let us know?

I ordered one and I'll see what the plans are like and build one and try and give a review in the next few weeks or so time permitting.

MK

An hour for most Titebond glues, then dont stress the joint. I like to get my clamps availible for other tasks if needed.

MK

I played with Stevie in 1976, Then, I was a harmonica player. He was young an crazy as I was. He was raised in Oak Cliff, then was in Mesquite. before Austin We had some good times. Drank alot of MD2020. I saw Jimmie in 68 what a player! I voted for Jimmie as he was so out of the box. Stevie was a great player and a friend. Best Drummer is my friend Buddy Miles. He moved recently and now I have no one to beat in poker LOL:) He used to live down the street.
He had this guitar that was Jimmies. What a sound!!!!! Only thing was it was setup for a lefty, so was Buddy a lefty(he's a player too!)The Buddy Miles Express. LOL:))
Mike

Just bring a scraper with you to the place, and just take a little off in some areas. You dont really get a full view of it, but you get an idea. The place I go to lets me do that , but I dont know if they will allow it.

I second this idea, and also have some naptha( lighter fluid) to bring out the grain. I do this all the time.

mk

hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg

I'm not one to nomally say it wont work, but

I think you might want to add some material to the neck for the tenon as others have said. Check out my site with the add on for a bolt on to a set neck this may help with a way to make you neck work.

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/firstbuild.html

I hope the first few pics help?

MK

Hi all,

I am well on my way to completing a homemade drum sander with a one hp, 110/220, one phase, reversible motor I got off of eBay. Only problem is that I can't distinguish which colored wires to connect to make this sucker run. I don't want to connect my wires incorrectly and blow something up.

There isn't a wiring diagram on the motor that I can tell. (Not even on the inside of the wiring access plate.) The other tricky thing is that this motor was manufactured in England so the colors of the wires may be different from the ones here in the US. If anyone can suggest how to wire this thing up, I would really appreciate it.

There are 5 wires: red, blue, yellow, black, and twisted yellow/green. After Googling electric wiring diagrams for an hour or so it looks to me like yellow/green is the British color code for the ground wire. It's the other wires I can't figure out.

Some other information if it will help:

The motor is reversible. It was manufactured by GEC Machines, Ltd. It is type BC2511/12DP. 1725 rpms. Frame 56. Capacitor start. 5/8" shaft.

Thanks for any help you can offer on this--even if it's to tell me how to use my multitester to figure it out.

Paul

First is the capacitor built in or on the motor? Usually they connect with 2 brown wires. As far as Mains power the White is neutral in the US, the Blk(hi), Blue(med), and Red(lo) is the common and are normally used for multi speeds. Some have additional wires that set the Rotation, GE motors have an additional 4 wires that are Brn, Yel, Org, Purp. These connect Brn to org, and Yel to Purp for CCW and switch the yel and org for CW. Now your motor may have these internally? or jumpers inside the cover plate?

Hope this helps in some way.

MK

Damn it. The hole is about the size of a quarter. It looks like it was caused by me not torquing the nut that fastens the router bit shank hard enough. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to work with this problem? I started to put some glue in to fill with, it looks like I'd have to put on several layers and build it up until it seals. I was planning to have a material finish. Thanks in advance for any comments.

A few pics would help determine how we can direct you with some ideas. Also what type of finish you were planning on?

Mike

Hey folks,

I'm brand new here...but I've been lurking for a few weeks. I'm in the middle of starting a strat build...and I'm wondering what you guys feel about sources of maple for the neck.

I can certainly order a blank from one of the various retailers...but is there any reason why I can't simply pickup some straight 1X4 maple stock at lowes or home depot?

Thanks,

Frank

Sure if you have a local HD or Lowes that carries maple? Usually they only carry Pine, Redoak, Poplar and sometimes Birch.

Watch for the correct grain whn making your selection.

MK

can somebody add a SPSP switch to this diagram? http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html

this is what I'm using

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search

And how can I test LEDs to see if they work???? And if I wanted to add a red LED to the amp how would I go about doing this?

Luke,

May I suggest that you check out these basic tutorials.

http://www.iguanalabs.com/maintut.htm

They will help you understand some of the questions you are asking. There is even one on LEDs.

Hope you find this usefull.

Mike

Hi, I'm a relative newbie.

I'd like some general advice on the factors involved in choosing the size of a router bit and also the speed.

Because of my lack of experience I'm very iffy about running my router on high speeds...are high speeds good? When do you choose them?

I've read to use the biggest bit possible. Are there limits or qualifications to this?

All advice gratefully received.

RobSm.

"Bit Diameter" "Max.Speed"

1" 24,000

11/4"-2" 18,000

21/4"-21/2" 16,000

3"- 31/2" 12,000

This is true whether it is a 1/4" or 1/2# shank. I have found though that slower speeds tend to give better results with some woods that have high sugar contents such as Maple. You will have less burning of the wood if you slow the bit down some and keep a constant feed rate. Always try on some scrap first to find what works for you.

Hope this helps you some.

Mike

ok so i have seen this done and was wondering how the heck its done ? any know or, know of a place with a tuturial on this ? plz help thanks

You might try these from woodcraft, they are a bit pricey but will remove wood fast. I've used them for other tasks like shaping the seat of a wooden chair.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=926

MK

See I told ya others would chime in.

I stand corrected and apologize for any miss information? LOL:))

Thanks guys for setting him straight.

MK