MiKro

I was considering making a guitar with a fiqured bubinga back and a quilt Makore top, but the guitar would end up only being 1 1/2 inches in thickness. I was even considering making it a semi hollow carve top as well. But is a 1/2 inch top even thich enough to carve? I havnt tryed a carve top yet and need the gaps to be filled in on the information on the thickness. Any help would be great.

The bubinga I found is enough for two guitars and was only 25 bucks but only an inch thick.

Not that it can't be done but 1/2" is quite thin for a carved top, 5/8 or better is the norm (unless very experienced) A thinline flat top would work with 1 1/2 " total thickness whereas, 1 3/4" would be the norm as far as minimum that most use. Others will probly chime in with more info on this.

....at least UPS says it will arrive today. I hope so.

If you're wondering whether or not you've gone off the deep end on a specific proj, this is how to tell.

sounds like you been talking to Sue at Gilmer

mk

Absolutely. Thanks MiKro. I hate to admit it, but I'm like a kid in a candy store with my new tools, though I still need a band saw and a table saw. But I'm really enjoying the router.

How long do your bits last? I've used some in the past, but I literally have no idea how long these things last or how to take care of them. I've been doing a lot googling lately.

GBT

Joseph,

That's a subjective question. LOL:)))) It depends on the types of wood, also how you use the bit ( meaning take shallow passes vs. deeper) The type of steel, HSS vs carbide. all these things will determine the lifespan of a particular bit. also the unexpected piece of metal ( staple, nail, brad, lead) that somehow shows up every bluemoon, they play havoc with a bit.

Storing them in a rack with holes or something similar works fine. Keep them from rolling around in a drawer and banging against each other )) If they get pitch or build up on them use oven spray or WD40 to remove it, then clean with mineral spirits and store.

I'm sure others have there methods also but that's some of mine.

See ya later.

Mike K

edited to add: I noticed that you refered to FWW mag. try going to there website and get on the knots forum. alot of good info there and there is a good thread going on now about router bits.

Wow, 26 reads and no replies. Ah well.

Let's see , I use CMTs, also Whiteside, some are from Rockler, I try and get the pattern bits I use from woodcraft on there $5.00 weekly specials. Eagle america has some good bits also. ( eagleamerica.com )

also try routerbits.com

CMTs I find are usually the best but expensive, I like Whitesides also. But most I have listed have good bits that will serve the purpose.

Hope that helps?

MK

i'm working on the first carvin amp that i actually need a schematic for and am about to kick my cat. the first thing i noticed was that there's no model designation so i try to track the serial number..yeah, right. i can narrow it down to a decade because of the speaker..lotta good that does. come to think of it i may kick your cat too.

i may actually get by without a schematic but how do you guys with a lot more experience in amp repair find the info you need on these things? and who's in charge of that company anyway. i think i'll go kick his cat.

Have you tried calling Carvin? 800 854 2235

mk

Man, I can't believe I missed these. I'm looking to finally build my first guitar, and any one of those would have been perfect for one later down the line when I figure out what I'm doing.

GBT

Joseph,

Get with me before you get any wood, I have a great stash that you might want to look through while we drink a brew. Tops, body blanks, fretboards, neck blanks. I'm sure we can come up with what you need for your build. PM me or email when you want to get together.

Mike

I would say something but it would not be PC . LOL:)))

Interesting thread though!

mk

This was linked to from the Steelguitarforum and I thought a few people here might be interested in having a look-see:

http://cgi.ebay.at/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...AMEBI%3AIT&rd=1

I suspect "fake logo," never having heard of Boss doing something like this. Plus, they'd probably use those typical Boss knobs. However, regardless of branding, this IS an intriguing instrument. And have a look at that bridge-- definitely some kind of retuning set-up, but what? Just a one-flip per string (like a slightly crippled Hipshot Trilogy) or do you dig in there for realtime pedal-steel-like bends? It would be an awkward "dig" to make, but it might have been a concept piece that either succeeded or failed (who knows?).

If anyone speaks German and cares to translate some of that, any insight would be appreciated.

Greg

heres the translation

http://www.mikrovisions.com/hold/translated.jpg

mk

uhmmm...yeah. Pretty much just like that.

It looks like it was a straight cut. You don't have to do an angle cut then I take it?...oh so much to learn...

Keldog,

do you have any pics from the side? Showing the crack in relation to the fretboard? From what I saw it appears to be between the nut and first fret? But it's hard to tell. I would be more than happy to give a try if you would like to ship it to me. Let me know what I can do to help if I can.

Mike

Hi guys,

A tech at Warmoth said this was the place so..............

What I've got is an older Epiphone LP that was given to me due to the broken neck. It's a set neck and I've heard that to change it, you heat it up and then crack it over your knee.....is this right?

Also, I've found a bunch of replacement necks for Strats and Tele's, but I'm having a real hard time trying to find an Les Paul type neck.

I've taken a look thru your site and can't find anything. Did I just miss it?

Do you Guitar Guru's have any thought?

Much thanks..............

Peace...Kel

If you're in the Dallas TX area I would be glad to look at it and help.

MK

Hi,

I purchased a dobro kit from ebay but need plans for attaching neck to the body. Stewmac had plans for theirs but are different then my kit. Any information or direction would be appreciated

Thanks

Dave

What kit is it? square or round neck? Who makes it? a little more info might help .

Try this site and see if you can find something that will help.

http://www.folkofthewood.com/page671.htm

MK

The really cool thing about the micro-fret nut was it was adjustable up or down , forward and back and sideways and was a roller nut. It was an ingenious design but was also very finicky. Would work for almost any radius. I just had surgery on my leg so I'm not real mobile so may be a day or 2 before I can find a pic.

MK

they look pretty cool, never heard of the company before how did you find out about them? as you mentioned they werent very popular, (personaly the guitars dont look that good but they inotive designing in them)

I purchased a Microfrets signature new in 1968 for $295.00. double cutaway. It was bright red. Very light weight guitar. It was made of a laminated 2 piece type of fiberglass. The intonation was awesome. I sold it in 1975 as well as my selling my 69 strat. Sure wish I had those guitars now. Now Paul Rose has brought the company back to life. The nut can be purchased from them for $125.00 as a replacement for there guitars. I'll see if I can find a picture of mine and scan it. It was really ahead of it's time and there original designs were more for the C&W and Jazz vs R&R.

Mike

I hope all the guys on here who asked "bolt to set-neck conversion" questions a while back (when it seemed quite the popular question) are paying attention!

I know I am it's looking great so far!

Thanks TR,

I'll try and keep up the docs on this one.

MK

Well all,

I finally got to get some more work done this project. The Ash body I started with developed a crack in the area of the neck pocket so I pulled out some sapele and started a new body. Got the neck pocket routed and the neck tenon fitted, glued up the bookmatched top halves and got then sanded. Going to the Guitar show tomorrow so I won't get any more done this weekend and having surgery on Monday, so next week looks to be shot to H

Check out the progress here.

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/firstbuild.html

Thanks for everyones help and support.

Mike

Thats a pretty cool setup, Mike. What's the "feather" part made of?

It's some plastic from a corrugated roof LOL:)

Really though anything that has some flex to it will work since it clamps in. That piece is sorta short but it works. Just need to apply even pressure to the wood and fence so that all you have to worry about is feed rate.

I'll try and make a set of plans for it to add to the tools and jigs section. May take a while as I'm very busy right now buit I'll try.

MK

On the blade topic. I just got my first timberwolf blade and WOW! SOOOOO much better then the stupid ones i got from homdepot and places like that. I used to go through at least 1 to 2 blades a guitar now i can slap the timberwolf on and it cuts great for a very long time. I recomend it highly!

They are nice aren't they LOL:)))))

I use the 3/16 10tpi for tight work, 1/4" 10 tpi for larger curves and the 1/2" 3 tpi for resaw. They seem to last about 4 to 1 against other blades.

Here's the body blank I cut out tonight.

a nice piece of Sapele, this is the bottom your looking at.

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/rufbodybottom.JPG

MK

Here's some pics of my fence and feather board.

Note the blade is not what I use for resawing. This was for photos only for your question as I had just setup to cut out a body blank.

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw1.JPG

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw2.JPG

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw3.JPG

Hope this helps

Mike

I am in the market right now for a new band saw and have almost decided that I am going to get the 1hp Grizzly 14" bandsaw. I've only heard good reviews about it.

There is only one thing I am not sure about. Has anyone ever tried to resaw with it. I would mostly be sawing maple tops out of 8/4 pieces.

Stock, the saw is only able to saw up to 6" high but with an attachment and a new blade it jumps to 12". I would only be sawing up to 7" so I won't be using the full 12". Also I would be using a 3/4" wide blade.

Does anyone have any experience with this or any reason I can't or shouldn't do this.

I have the Grizzly Ultimate 14" with riser block. It resaws fine using the correct blade. I have found that the Timberwolf 1/2" 3 tpi works best in this saw. I tried the 3/4" and it just doesn't have enough power to use it correctly. The fence that comes with the it needs to have a riser added. I'll try and post some pics of my fence and feather board that I use when I resaw.

Again I would not recommend using the 3/4" blade. Do a search on this at the Knots forum at

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/index.aspx?

Most will tell you to use the 1/2" Timber wolf. Also the blade that comes with the Grizzly is a POS. It's more there for shipping that anything.

Mike

1) No

2) Wood choice

3) Pickups choice and variety in terms of styles, function, brands, etc.

4) No

5) No Comment

I have a problem: I just glued the headstock piece onto the larger piece for my neck. I used two blocks of wood between the clamps and the neck in order to prevent denting/damage. One block came off easily, but the other is stuck on. Can anyone tell me how to get it off easily? I'm thinking about chiseling on a part that I won't use. I will also be putting a veneer on top of the headstock, but I need this block removed!

Here are pictures of the neck with the block. I guess I could also sand it off.. but that would take awhile.

Any help is appreciated!!

Thanks,

Matt

what type glue didyou use? It looks like squeeze out at the scarf joint. may be very small amout dpending on your glue method. Try and slowly place a chisel from the side of the scarf to lift the piece. Depending on the glue maybe ass heat from a heat gun. Do this ASAP. as the longer it sits the better the bond. If it appears to start tearing ay wood from the headstock STOP!!!!!! then set up a jig and remove witha router and final sand.

MK

Well, got the plans. I dont know if i want to build it like he has it or use linear bearings like ive seen myka and other guys do. Linear bearings are way more expensive, but do look a little bit nicer. Does anyone use this thing for necks yet? Thats my main reason for building one is neck duplicating. What bits you guys use? and what get the best results? Also where do you guys get yoru stylis at? In the plans he says you can make them, but i also say guitarfrenzy say he bought his at terrco but i couldnt find them on the site.

Check on MIMFs site they have a set of plans called Sargent duplicator. It's in PDF format and free it's in the archive library.

edited to add: It's in the Instrument plans section, subsection is tool plans and pictures.

Mike

Go to the freeinfo section at www.stewmac.com and there's a pdf set of instructions for assembling a resonator kit. You may want to print it out ... I don't think they make the kit anymore so it may not be on there forever.

The kits are now sold by Beard Guitars as he is the one that provided them to Stewmac.

http://www.beardguitars.com/index.html

another gd site for Dobro info is at http://www.folkofthewood.com/

Hope this helps.

Mike

I've been ...............SNIP......................... here or there. -Vinny

Welcome Vinny,

looking forward to watching you get your feet wet. There's always plenty of help here at PG, and the search function is always a great place to start LOL:)))))

Again Welcome aboard!!!

Mike

Always test your new Template and Pattern Router bits on scrap. Many times they will over cut beyond the bearing. then you will need to add packing tape to your templates to compensate for this.

Safety Tip: Check the lock collar and make sure the set screw is tight before using.

Recently I have found the wrong size bearings on new bits from CMT. This has happened twice now in the past 3 weeks. One was a 1/4" bit and they had a 5/16" bearing. The other 1/2" bit with a 7/16" bearing.

So check your tools before wasting that once in a lifetime piece of wood and be safe.

Mike

what happened is, when all 6 strings are in they put more pull on the springs/trem raising the strings, put all your strings in and tune it, it should play fine.

That's what I was hoping to hear thanx. I just put in one for now to test my wiring with coil tap 1st.

oops! sorry, missed the low E only LOL:)))

mk