MiKro

I got this strat last month already set up. Played fine.

I removed the strings to install a pup.

I did nothing to alter the 6 screw whammy bridge or tuners. The tuners are where the string is placed through the top of the post instead of the side.

I installed the low e string and it is right up against the fretboard, so it is totally buzzed out. What happened?

What strings were on it and how low was the action?

What did you replace with?

I have had similar problems after changing from say 12s to 10s or 9s when my action was really low.

the nut is cut to deep and Buzz city somewhere on the fretboard.

So without seeing it I can't give you an answer but It sounds like you changed sizes of strings and it is not setup for them.

Just my humble opinion.

MK

.....Snip......

Also, you want to apply glue to ONE of the two gluing surfaces, not both. A nice, thin, even amount. Just enough to cover the surface entirely. A bit too much is better than a bit too little, assuming good clamping practice, and you get a feel for how much is enough by gluing more things together.

Mattia, not to pick nits, but if you really want a good glue joint you should put glue on both surfaces. This way both surfaces are at the equal with each other. Yes, applying glue to one surface will work in most cases but if the strongest joint is to be accomplished for most types of glue, then both surfaces should have it applied. I agree that too much glue can and may weaken a joint if too much clamping pressure is applied, also not enough glue is a concern. Most people just pour it on and clamp away. I suggest that eveyone READ THE FINE PRINT on the glue they are using. Also maybe do some research on the manufactors website. Some real insite on the uses and proper methods of glueing. May even save some $ in the long run. Again I'm not trying to slam you, just trying to educate anyone that will listen and hopefully help and give everyone the chance for less possible failure when it counts.

Sincerely,

Mike K

What's the moisture content? if it is above 10% it needs to dry more.

Where did you get it from and is it partially air dried( check with who you purchased from)? If so It needs to sit for 3 to 6 months before you do anything with it. Yes there are tensions in wood but usually these type problems arise from wet woods. I recomend that you beg, barrow, or steal someones moisture meter and check it out. If it's betweem 6 and 8 % you are okay and it's stress in the wood, otherwise wait until it's dry.

Just my .02cents worth.

MK

snip...

I'm not entirely clear what you mean there...when you say you cut the heel form side to side, do you mean you narrowed it into a tenon? It doesn't look like it from the photos...

snip... Looks really nice though!

*********************************

Mick,

What I did was remove the back of the heel to remove the radiused corners. This gave me a flat surface at the rear of the heel also. If you look at the pics you will see the neck from the side and the fretboard is overhanging. That is the area that was removed before the extended wood was added. Then I narrowed the bottom surface and the sides to give relief for the body joint to allow for blend sanding.

I hope that makes sense???? LOL!!

edited to add: see the second pic on 2nd row and click on it to enlarge I think that might give you the best view. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/

Thanks for the input. I am going to try and get the neck pocket done this weekend if possible.

Mike K

So you just glued a new piece of wood to the bottom of the heel?

Well sorta of, It was a little more complicated. I have pics on what I did. I'll try and post them at my site later.

In short, I first planed the heel down to get it flat and square, then cut the heel from side to side just below the fretboard. Then glued on the wood to the heel. rough cut the area at the scallop and began the shaping process.

Also I drilled the screw holes to 1/4" and glued in dowels to fill them before adding the extra wood.

Mike

Looking nice. I don't think I have ever heard of Pudding/Quilt(figure described as such), but that board has some great looking figure. It should look really unique when bookmatched. Keep up the good work.

Peace,Rich

Thanks Rich,

I'm thinking that the piece will be really nice also.

MIke

Looks like the neck conversion is well on track! Nice lines there, I'm looking forward to seeing the neck mounted. Keep us posted as I would like to follow this one from a distance if nothing else.

Good luck!

Nate Robinson

Thanks Nate,

I'll try and keep documenting as I go. Sometimes I forget LOL:)))

Mike

Hello all,

Well I finally started my first build. I am building a strat knock off with a set neck, flat body, and humbuckers. Will be a hardtail. This is for my nephew. Starting with an ash body, and his old squire neck.(he likes it, so why not). First was working on the neck conversion for set neck. I still have a way to go. LOL:))). Have also roughed out the body. Will be working on the neck tenon this weekend. Will more than likely make this with rear mounted PUPS and hardware with a maple cap, maybe a marquetry back with different woods. Not sure, but have an idea for screwless covers. Not sure if it will work though.

heres the neck started.

check out the pics at

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/

or at the home page click on Tweety Bird.

http://www.mikrovisions.com

I'm not sure if I'll use the flamed or the pudding/quilted maple for the cap. LOL:)))

I rubbed some mineral spritis on the neck for the pics. It really shows the grain on the heel. It should not be quite as dark when sealed with shellac before staining.

Thanks for looking and all of the help so far.

MK

edited to update links

yeah,.... shoot.... I guess I can't use that bit then... cuase I've got a single speed that goes 25,000 RPM

Chris

What size fixed speed? Woodcraft has a speedcontrol for about $35 that will work if it's a 1hp or larger or maybe 1 1/4hp not sure on the minimum hp rating for the speed control. I've used one on a 1 1/2hp Bosch 1617 fixed speed with no issues.

edited to add: Here's the control I was talking about.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3957

Mike

I was just wondering when a router bit gets so big that it needs slowing down? Like from Myka's neck shaper tutorial it says that those big round overs do. However, I wanna get a 1/2" rabbit bit (total diameter of like 1.5" or something around that) to take a template i have for a semi-hollow and make it 1/2" smaller on ALL sides for a good solidbody size. Will I need to slow down this bit? Even if It's only being used to cut MDF?

Chris

Chris here's a good rule of thumb for most bits.

"Bit Diameter" "Max.Speed"

1" 24,000

11/4" to 2" 18,000

21/4" to 21/2" 16,000

3" to 31/2" 12,000

hope this helps.

mike

I don't know if this is too early but I've been thinking, would it be possible to make a tribute bass from everyone at PG and present it to Steve's family? You know, a little bit from all over the world to show our condolences from everyone at PG?

Or maybe auction it off and give his family the $. count me in either way. I'll provide some killer maple, flamed or quilted.

MK

edited to add: sorry bad choice of words(killer) how about preemo. I have read many of BPs responses and value his effort. I wish him a wonderful eternal journey and the family my condolences.

MK

Welp, i just won an acution for some wood. One of these three pieces of wood will be the neck for the guitar. The other two will be necks for projects later on in life, good to be prepared . Now im on the mission for either a board to make my own bookmatched set or an already sawed bookmatch set piece of flamed maple.

Hey Duff,

Did you not get the flamed that you were bidding on? If not let me know I'll cut you up some of mine if needed. PM me and we'll work somthing out, I know you don't want any quilt and thats cool. I just hadn't decided to cut up the flame yet. but if you need it so be it. I guess it's time to cut it up and make it available. I 've only been sittin on it for over a year or so. LOL:)))

Mike

....snip... ",the problem is 99 3/4 is a very unusual lenght and none of the big hardware stores carry it"...snip...

Hi Olyen,

Have you tried getting one from Tools for woodworking? They have a 1/2" woodslicer for $30 that is 100" the 1/4" difference should not be a problem if your machine has enough tension range. Just a thought for you.

Mike K

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index...ROD&ProdID=1293

Hello All,

My Name is Mike Kroening, I own AMP Construction and Remodeling LLC in Dallas Texas. I am 49 years old and have dabbled in playing guitar since I was 13. I play harmonica and keyboards much better than the guitar LOL:)). I love messing with electronics and I am an accomplished woodworker. I build custom cabinets and fireplace surrounds. Also make canes, chess boards, small chests etc…. I think you get the picture.

I have been toying with the idea of building my own guitar when I found this site. Now I’m really getting the fever. I just lost my lease on my workshop so I am now setting up in my garage. Man I have too much stuff and not enough space. I hope that I can help those of you with woodworking questions so please ask. If I don’t know, someone here surely will.

I would like to offer to regular PG members in the DFW area the ability to have access to my tools with my supervision, when I am available. I know that many members do not have access to many of these tools and if you would like to PM me and schedule some time, I would be happy to work with you. BTW there is no charge, but a few Cold Buds wouldn’t hurt LOL!!!!

My tools consist of

Grizzly14”bandsaw with 6” riser,

Delta 10” tablesaw with Incra TSLS fence and router lift insert

3 routers

Performax 16/32 drum sander

13” Planer dewalt

6” jet jointer

Delta Lathe

16 speed floor mount drill press

8 speed bench mount drill press

10”compound miter saw

Delta scroll saw.

And all the other little goodies to go with this.

Well that’s about it I’ll try and help when I can and learn when I can. Thanks for listening to me ramble.

Mike

what about the ones that say on the pack "contains no wax or silicone" should i just be safe and not trust it at all (like im thinking) or are these ones different?

You may be safe with those, as I have not even looked at tack rags in many years. Maybe they got smart? LOL:)))

mk

I actually just noticed that the ones I have been using are the ones that say they contain no wax or silicone. Like I said earlier, haven't had a problem with finish sticking, but looks like it's a risk...

That's cool , count yourself lucky and I hope they work well for you.

I'm glad that they are now available without wax as I have'nt even considered them for a long time.

I learn something new everyday LOL:))))

Thanks

MK

Thanks alot everyone!

Do you know of any brand names? Something that would be available at the local hardware store?

Ya go and ask someone there about CA glue and they're like... and the companies don't seem to label their bottles with the technical name, none that I've seen anyway.

It's like looking at a can of laquer and trying to tell if it's poly or nitro or...

Thanks again!!!

Hot Stuff is good, Zap is another, there are many others.

Here's a few links,

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=346

http://www.towerhobbies.com/listings/cat-cat-r.html

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10562

Hope this helps,

Mike

Tack cloth is a big NOOOOOOO!!!!! when finishing now . Used to be it was made with dewaxed shellac. ( years ago) Any good woodworker knows that they contain wax now. which leaves a residue and may hamper the final finish.

Nuff Said. My .02cents worth.

I haven't used one in the last ten years, Use a clean cloth with naptha, mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol to clean with. the first two are the best. Let dry a while and then finish. I'm almost fifty and been at this awhile (woodworking thats is)

(at least 30 years) and I hope I have a small amount of experience with this. You may get by, but is it worth the risk of a great piece of wood to screw it up?

Hope I've turned you off of the tack rag. If you need more support on this subject check out and search the archives on the Knots woodworking forum at

http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/?redirCnt=1

Sincerely,

Mike K

[

EDIT: ^ that pic is a little blury, but I don't think it's the same thing cause it's not that bright of a green.

It maybe a fungus that sometimes effects maple. It will show up in air dried maple ocassionally. Use a fungacide to eradicate it.

Mike

Thought i would check here first, but i need a high figured maple neck blank for a present guitar im building. If anyone has one for sell let me know, either quilted or flamed.

Thanks

I PM'd you about some maple stock I have that you might want.

Mike

Hello All,

I was on woodcrafts web site (www.woodcraft.com) and the new RIKON 10" Bandsaw Model 10-300 is on sale for $119.00.

I have noticed many people posts about bandsaws and what they need. I already have a 14" with riser Band saw so I'm good to go.

But for those on a fixed budget, this little 10" saw is a very good deal. I have tested one at the local Woodcraft and it would suffice for rough cutting your bodys and other tasks as well. Not recommend for any resawing though.

I just thought I would pass along what appears to be a good deal to those who may be looking for something inexpensive but worth the $. I would buy good blades for it though. Timberwolf are excellent and woodcraft carries them also.

Hope this helps someone.

Mike

Tommy,

It seems that you have been able to find some literature on your jointer. That's great. It should hopefully give you some info on the setup which will help you understand how it works. If I can find some time I might try and get your way if you still have problems. Have a good one. and let me know if there is anything I can do to help .

MK

"believe it or not I am a Texan without a pickup!" LOL:))))

I appreciate that, I have 3 an F150 super crew( wifes truck), F350 Crew cab 4x4( mine) and an F150 extended cab ( youngest daughters). LOL:))) Email me at mike @ampcore.com with your phone#. I'll see if we can connect and Maybe I can help you over the phone and get you going.

Also if you could send some pics I might be able to see the problem. I hope!!!!

edited to add: Tommy what is the model # and make again? MAybe I can help you find a users guide and owners manual. That would be a good place for setup info. I have a few sources for older equipment for documents.

MIke

I have an old delta 4"jointer planer with a new baldor motor mounted on the stand connected with a belt. I bought this thing over a year ago and tried to use it but it keeps "sniping" is what I am told it is doing.

Could someone please instruct me on how to use this tool. I dont know if the in and out table is adjusted correctly or how to feed it. I have been told I am not doing it correctly by local people but noone has ever instructed me on using it.

I have not even tried it in a year, but I would love to be able to use it.

I think it would be a great tutorial subject.

Thanks

Hello Woodsmen,

What part of East Texas are you in? Would a drive to Dallas be wayout for you to get some instruction? If not , and your jointer is a bench model.. (meaning you can bring it with you) I would be glad to help you set it up and teach you how to use it. PM me and let me know what I can do to help as, Hands on instruction with this will be your best bet as Jointers can be finicky and dangerous.

Mike K

Bump for some help please....

←

Gunslinger,

You might try this woodworking forum. They may be able to give you the answers to your questions in regars to working with burled wood.

http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/

Hope they can help.

Mike