pauliemc

No way man. I can never do that, Always has to be at least 2 going together. my brain goes to mush fixating on a single build, drives me a bit cookoo Lookin realy good Btw. thats actually reeaally good advice, even for firts timers; you start trying too many thigs on one build when theres only one on the go, and it ends up taking as long as 2 tottally different builds Exactly. Do what im doing now. 2 satch models, flying V, 3 Jems, 2 les pauls, a strat, a red special & a tele with its own built in amp & effects. keeps me from over focusing on just the one

excellent wood for a neck. Use it all the time

Some piks of the other build going on with this one, This ones keeping me sane with the problems on the satch Strat for the chick. Man I love black walnut

I agree totaly. I typically countersink the holes in the face of the nut & use small brass screws to affix it to the nut shelf - no holes thru the neck. But I dont own this one anymore, was approached about it & just couldent say no. New owner wanted the typical mounting for this nut. I got to at least keep the extra meat at the back of it, 27mm thick. So its not a total disaster of a weak spot.

No way man. I can never do that, Always has to be at least 2 going together. my brain goes to mush fixating on a single build, drives me a bit cookoo Lookin realy good Btw.

Oky doky. Some progress on this one. Got some more done on the neck. Back is oiled, holes for machines are in. These piks also kinda show the beginings of the fading problem. This is the headstock the day after the stain went on (water diluted) This is the headstock 3 days later. the black is rapidly vanishing & the figuring is becoming almost invisible & the green has lost its vibrancy. This will be redone diluted in alcohol like the body. Provided the re-stained body holds its colour now that it is re-stained. Anyway. Ignoring the stain for the moment. The back is oiled up & the headstock shaped. The body just got its first coats of clear. I will post piks tomorrow when it has dried enough for the next coat.

Just checked Jaden online. He can get them easy enough it seems. Might give em a shout when the finish gets movin along again, Just found a set of power trons I totaly forgot I had. Im checkin em out tomorrow in my groovey JS test bed thing. Speakin of builds fightin you. The dog scared the crap outa me earlier when a stupid cat stroled into the workshop. Dog freaked & launched at the maengy little fooker, I ended dousing myself & most of the neck in danish oil. So now the fret board has a single coat of danish on it . But the workshop floor looks great now Somehow the chicks strat managed to dodge all of it

So long as its a player for himself, & the strings come out the front - Who gives a rats ass !!! As for the nitro. Id wait a while for it to cure. Then cut it back & try again. Leave it a few weeks to cure next time. I usually paint a piece of scrap the same as the body if im using nitro. Then you can test the scrap piece for cutting/buffing, if its not ready you just wait a while longer - no harm done as it was only scrap

Cool. Nice sound. Keep us posted for anything else like this

exactly. I use behlen powdered aniline for almost everything. Works great.

Oky Doky. Its green again, redone the burst on the back aswell, headstock stained to match the body. locked up in the dark room to dry out for a day or 6 before applying some clear. Ill get some piks up when the poly is on. General question to everyone out there. Im having trouble getting Pickups for this thing. Im trying to get hold of a Paf Joe & a Mojoe by Dimarzio. Cant find anyone to ship to Ireland (apart from one guy, but he wanted $70 per pup & $65 to ship them - with a 4 week delivery estimated time ) I found some in a local store but they wanted 185 euro each , man i havent laughed so hard in years (i bought 5 for that last year) I have some duncan SH1 pups, But I kinda decided on the mojoe & paf Joe so Im stickin to that. So any ideas ? Man this build is realy startin to kick my ass

That would cool yeah but I am not good at bursts unless I do them with a blow torch but I don't think that glue would hold up to that We were thinking of staining it black with some ebony stain then sanding it back so it works as a grain filler then putting Danish oil on the entire guitar since we like the way it looks and feels. Works for me. Id put an amber aniline on after you cut the black. Then oil it. will look excellent

cool grain on that. What kind of finish are you thinkin of ? it would be realy cool if you could teach her to do a burst or some other groovey finish. Then let her do it on the guitar herself

By design. Yes it is fine. I am going to go 4+3 on the next one for aesthetic reasons but will be doing another 7 inline with a larger cut away in the headstock so 2 strings hang over. See my destroyer for another example. Parker fly had something along those lines aswell. Worked fine there

WOW !! Holy crap man. thats pure filth. & normaly I hate SG's, So thats sayin a lot.

OK. So the satch body is stripped, sanded & re-stained black again. I will be getting it ready for the green front & cherry-black burst tomorrow. No point putting up piks of the staining all over again so heres a few of another guitar in the works. This is a strat for the chick. Ash body, walnut neck, ebony board with vine. Ripped off the pointy stick for the colour Muzz wont mind. If yer lookin dave (PRS Tait) those vine templates you sent me are great. Got this board done in way less than half the usual time

Gorgeous, Nice & simple, no clutter of switches or knobs or any other crap.

Yea. only difference is one being carved & glued to a sapele back. As for the light, untill they get all 12 coats of clear all my bodies are kept in a darkened room @ a fairly constant 25 degrees C. only come out for more toner or clear untill finished. This body has never seen direct sunlight, Only thru a window about 12 foot away from the work bench. & that is covered with a mesh screen, & the glass filters full spectrum light - so almost no UV. Im gona give it one last try with the colortone. But this time with spirits instead of water. will be mixed up & used on the spot. I waited about an hour after it was mixed last time. if it goes crappy then Ill use the Behlen stuff. 'Stop eating that' is more interested in the ebony offcut from the chicks strat than anything lately. seems to like gnawing up expensive stuff

Hey Scott. Its still fading The back is holding up realy well, Including the black. Makes me think there is something up with the maple on the front. But Oddly enough, the sample piece I done up is still strong as ever. Green & black are still good I just dont get it. has me totally stumped. Im gona get some more done on the neck, you know - radius, frets, oil, bla bla bla. Then I rekon I will just strip the body & start over. You said you have a couple of coats of clear on the body to seal it. Do you have any clear on the sample piece? If not, do you suppose therre is some kind of reaction between the dye and the clear that's leaching the color out? SR Na, both totaly the same. Not like they are even different pieces of timber, The sample is an offcut from making the top for this guitar. has me totaly stumped, cant figure it out at all.

Wiped on varnish for the front, Oil the rest works realy well, Iv done it a few times to help protect a front a little more than just oil. Lookin realy good BTW

Hey Scott. Its still fading The back is holding up realy well, Including the black. Makes me think there is something up with the maple on the front. But Oddly enough, the sample piece I done up is still strong as ever. Green & black are still good I just dont get it. has me totally stumped. Im gona get some more done on the neck, you know - radius, frets, oil, bla bla bla. Then I rekon I will just strip the body & start over.

You should try to get as much natural light for a pik as possible. Blue sky & bright, never fails to produce a good pik. Not that I ever see a blue sky, Im in Ireland. Land of the perpetual cloudy - overcast day Still cool lookin, kinda has a corugated sheet steel look to it. Should be realy sweet when its done.

I know im goin off on one, But its typical. Build for others & its all good, plain sailing & all that crap, BUT, you build something for yourself & it goes wrong. I wonder if Jesus is trying to tell me something ? Maby he wants me to a 7 neck mockingbird ?

1. I know. Its savage cool aint it Been holding on to that piece for ages. Was never gona go to a customer. 2. Way ahead of you. Its in the steam oven as I type this, Will be clamping it into place to make the curve later. 3. You Jammy fook !! Iv never had anything fade until recently. & then it was only the colortone stuff. Tried it, hate it, Never using it again, Should have stuck with behlin, lesson learned. Mattia. I know fade resistant does not mean fade-proof. But i would expect it to last a lot longer than a week. There were a few days where the green got more vivid, but after 7-8 days I notaiced it was showing a little maple thru the colour. Now its a LOT of maple. The black is starting to fade out aswell. Considering the age of these dyes - ordered, received & used within a week. Its a joke !! As far as im concerned, no product sold as a colouring agent for timber should fade after a few days.

I saw a similar post ages ago. I actually posted to it because I had a few guitars fade already (blue analine dye that time). Aparently if the dye is old stock (over a year opened) it can cause some problems. But this bottle is new, Got it a week or so before the dye job was done, stewy mac said it is fade resistant. I took their word for it. maby im just panicing because of the previous problems, just have to wait & see. Im ordering a batch of replacement black & green from Behlin this week - just in case.