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Hello, I made the inlay of the fretboard using epoxy resin and microballon. The mixture: mix 14g of epoxy resin (resin + hardener) and add microballon (glass or phenolic) till you get a sort of clay (not too hard and not to liquid). Then fill pattern you routed on the wood and let it harden for 24 hours. At the end, with a radioused sanding block, sand it. It's very easy! The color of the mixture can be changed using special colors for resins (liquid or paste). You can also use powdered ones but you cannot use water based or solvent based colors (they cannot evaporate and they also damage the chemical structure of the resin --> the resin is a polymer). My advice is to do some practice on scrap wood. Let me know if this description is sufficient and don't hesitate to pose me any question.

I think, as you, that if the back is black, the top pops up and the result is aesthetically better. Now I'm preparing to start a new project: an headless guitar. The color I chose is green with black back.

Incredible!!! They are rella similar! Consider that at the begging I had in mind to leave the back natural then, after the staining, I changed idea because the contrast, from my point of view, was to high... In addition he used the same tuning machines I used: the PlanetWaves Auto-trim... 2 Persons in the world having in mind the same image: a blue PRS style guitar with a tree-of-life inlay on the fretboard. Thank you very much for the link, I really apreciated it

If you want the birds you can ask this guy: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Guitar-Parts-Ce...sQ3amesstQQtZkm I know that he had them in stock.

Hello Jer7440 I'm very pleased to give you an answer. 1. The overall thickness is 51mm 2. it is flat and parallel to the back 3. The initial thickness was 24mm and at the edge it is 7mm In few words, the thickness of the maple is 24mm and the one of the mahogany is 27mm. If you have any question don't hesitate to ask me

A strange idea can be to do a wood pickguard. If you don't like this idea, give an eye to: http://stores.ebay.com/Greasy-Groove-Productions

I forgot to tell you that in the next days I'll publish a set of pictures of the building process of the Fiber Carbon Guitar v1.0.

Hello Guys, Here are 3 sound samples of the first version of the Fiber Carbon Guitar I built: Clean Sound Crunchy Sound Heavy Sound Sustainer Demo The sound tests have been recorded by progressively switching the pickup selector from position 1 to 5

Hello guys! Here you can find 3 sound samples: Clean Sound Test Crunchy Sound Test Demo Song The sound tests have been performed using Line 6 Guitar Port in order to be easily replicated by someone else with other guitars. This is the only way that I found that allows you to be able to compare the different guitar sounds. Here you can find the Line 6 Guitar Port presets I used: Clean tone: Like Heaven Crunchy tone: Verse The sound tests have been recorded by progressively switching the pickup selector from position 1 to 5

I confirm that the Variax do not have magnetic pickup, they use a L.R. Bagg piezo bridge. Probably it is possible to put the pickup under the pickguard so they will be invisible (directly fixed on the body) but I think that you need to consider 2 elements: 1. if the pickguard has a conductive tape on it you probably need to cut it out in the position where the pickup will be installed 2. due to the fact that the pickups will lay under the body level (under the pickguard) you probably will need to lower the bridge and the neck in order to reach an accettable distance of the strings from the puckups I'll stay tuned because I like this experiment.

The Wilkinson's sounds really good (this is due to the fact that it's made of one piece of aluminium and it doesn't have parts that can move...) and this is the reason why PRS stop tails install this bridge. The main disadvantage (in my opinion) is that the intonation cannot be set up so precisely as the Badass (where you can set each string separately).

Really really really a very very very nice work!

As I wrote before, there was a "copy&paste" problem: this guitar has a set-neck and not a bolt-on. Anyway, it is possible to have a "bolt-on" neck that seams a set-neck: I read it on Martin Koch's book. Here is a link to the book details: http://buildyourguitar.com/books/beg/index.asp I never did a test but it seams that it can work. ;-)

Sorry, this is the classical "Copy&paste" problem. The neck is set neck and not bolt-on, sorry. I also built a angled bolt on (I called it SC-Curved). Here is the picture: The process is the same as a glued neck but the difference is that you bolt it. I decided to angle it because I used a wraparound bridge. In the picture you can see a Wilkinson bridge, I replaced it with a Badass and, due to the fact it is higher than the Wilkinson's one, I had to angle the neck heel. If you have any question, don't hesistate post it ;-)

It took me about 2 months. I angled the neck heel. To determine the angle I put the bridge at the desired height plus at least 7mm and at the correct distance (based on the scale length). Based on this, you can determine the angle. At that point I put the neck on the table and I put a piece of wood near the nut to rise it to reach the correct angle. Then I fixed the piece of wood with a tape. I fixed the neck. Then I routed. Here some pictures: First Second Third Fourth Fifth Sixth It is very important to put the bridge at an height of at least 7mm higher than the expected one because when you angle the neck with the router you reduce the heel height. In addition to this you need to rout the neck pocket considering this so, you need to rout the pocket 7mm less deep. I hope this quick explaination will help. Please let me know if something is not clear or if you have a better technique.

Hello, I used a nitro based sanding sealer. I brushed 5 coats and then I level sanded. I didn't use anything on the maple before staining, I only sanded it.

Is a Fender LSR roller nut. Here you can see a detailed picture:

I'm sure you will do a nice work ! Let me know when will you start your project, I'm interested in it.

Thank you all for your posts! :-) I hope the images are not a problem, they resides on my website. Anyway, the staining process was very simple: I applied only a coat of a water base stain then I wiped with a damp cloth (I did this because the final color was a little too dark). Some people suggest to sand the first coat and to apply the stain again, this enphasize the flame. Another way to emphasize the flame is to apply first black stain, sand and then apply the final color. I, personally, prefer applying only one coat of stain without sanding: in this way the wood looks 3D, in few words, depending on the light angle, the pattern varies and the maple seams alive (the main problem is that to see this effect when you apply the sanding sealer). I hope this will help, if not, don't hesitate to ask me again. Thank you all again :-)

I replaced the standard studs with locking ones (more sustain, more stability) like these: (Picture taken from http://stores.ebay.com/South-East-Music)

Hello, You can find some information on how to install that bridge on: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator/ Put in the form the data and then click the "Calculate" button: there you will find the measures for some bridges. I like that bridge (the Badass one) because you can set it up perfectly. I also used Wilkinson's one (the one used on PRS) but, in my opinion, it's not sufficiently flexible. The main problem is that it's a little too high so you need to design your guitar to fit it. I used the Wilkinson's on my SC-Curved but recently I upgraded it to the Badass one. I installed the Badass also on my last project: I hope this will help you

Here are the specifications: Body · Solid body · Mahogany body with flamed maple top · Finish: flamed royal blue Neck · Angled headstock · Flamed Maple · Wide fat contour · Indian rosewood fret board · Tree-of-life inlay (epoxy inlay) · Set-Neck Pickups · PRS Dragon Pickups Wiring · 5-way rotary switch

Great idea! I'll keep tuned because I'm really interested in seeing the final result.

Very very very nice!!! Really a GREAT job!

Great work!!! ;-)