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therizky

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Everything posted by therizky

  1. "Hey man without quote button, rolleyes.gif" lol i need to take some time to learn on how to use that ****.but im fine so far. I can't offer anything from col's circuit design. Even if I had it, there's ownership rights that have to be respected. :aureole: i didnt ask you to do that anyway,i was asking for you to draw me some simple original schematic. c'mon,read my post carefully. "The whole agc thing is nothing more than some kind of compressor/limiter that has to be transplanted into your sustainer circuitry. So best to take a look first at the tangerine peeler which has feedforward as well as a feedback sidechain. Filters, no! Ldrs are used in compressors like the flatline compressor (not feedforward). So ldrs yes if you know how to do it!" ldr? no,i don't know how to do it.lol .the tangerine peeler blows big time anyway. ou well...since the goal of agc is to save power and energy. why don't create something that limit the use of power directly at the power source (+v) ? or the result is pretty much the same? not so long ago i tried to run dod 280comp,which is ldr based compressor with no subtle result. now i'm going to tried to build escobedo's uglyface,and run it as sustainer circuit. since it has threshold and frequency control,it think it has the ability to control the desired dominant frequency response of the sustainer. no? edit:a few days ago i read wasp whining about driver design and now there's another guy mumbling about circuit. phew,i guess this diy sustainer project can't get any more clear and simple. sorry for the late reply anyway hehe peace!
  2. "Col, one of the guys over here, has come up with an agc that utilizes a feedforward sidechain. The agc regulates the signal level right at the guitar pickup. This way the swing amplitude of the string is being controlled. This will save energy. How to save more energy? Like you already said, more windings on the driver coil (it might well be that the sustainiac's spec is the optimal performance). It depends on whether the agc can deal with the behaviour in the high freqencies region, but it certainly would make your system more energy efficient for low frequencies. Depending on how 'quiet' your driver and pickup are (humbucking?/shielding?) you can increase the gain in the pickup-amp-driver-string-pickup positive feedback loop and limit the swing amplitude even more. " hey,can you draw me a very simple schematic of what agc appear to be? (not something from col's circuit design,but some simple implication of that post) it is enought to add some filter or ldr (with another stage of amp) from the output to the input? thnx.
  3. "Series/Parallel, Phase Reversal Switching, Blow Switches, Coil Taps, etc. Do you find that given all these options you really end up using only one or two different sounds.? On a Strat I use the 2 and the 5. Never used the coil tap on my PRS McCarty. I'd like to hear from someone who makes use of the full palette. " i'm a hard fans of everything versatile,so those things are very cool for me. i use everything that i have done,so nothing is useless,(imagine yourself playing hard palm mutes of Dimmu Borgir or Lamb of Gods into dancey-funky out of phase sounds of ska and punk in just one guitar,and many other tones left to dig) yeah.but,if you have satisfied with sounds that comes on stock don't bother doing any mods. not to mention the amount of time to get used to the mods itself.
  4. "I'm beginning my pedal collection now, starting with a dd7. I'm bidding on a Holy Grail Reverb, and a compression sustainer. I'm looking to pickup the mxr full bore metal pedal as well. Anyone have suggestions on what to add? And where to get a decently priced board?" i'd like to go with "complete" selections of pedals,meaning all kinds of modulations and distortions available on your pedalboard,don't need to go with everything expensive,just versatile. take the first step by don't waste your money on buying distortions pedal,just buy modulations,modulations can alter your playing. tremolo,vibrato,echo,flanger,chorus,etc. yumm.
  5. "Sorry, but I don't understand the bad guy - **** hole thing, do I want to know this?" it's not important,i always use idioms and sarcasms in place of my mumbling english (in fact it's just foul languange) but somehow its just drown me to a more complicated situations. anyway the point is just...**** happens,it just depends on each other person involved or those who watch the circus to take action.let 'em who fought become fanatic of their own ideology.as the third person needs to takes no side and neutral (which i suspect what you and your dude drak have did) to mod team i can only suggest to 'patrol' more often and always think positives. speaking about moderators i too have something to critize about this topic and how things work out here,but since i'm a fairly new member (look at my posts count and that big "mew member" label) and rarely get online and contribute ****,i wouldn't dare to do that (not to mention lines of people ready to kick my ass if i do that).but as someone has done that,i'm already feel represented. "I see that therizky is still around, of course you shouldn't be hiding, and you did nothing wrong. Sell as many sustainers as you can." thanks for the support dude.but unfortunately i myself don't know how the future of those project as i have other things to takin' care of,i have to finish my bachelor degree first,but thanks anyway. peace!!!
  6. "I appreciate the help psw, and anyone else who helps." cool. my main concern of you aren't about your involvement with the conflict or building sustainer ,but how would you deal with -that- guy...later. he's kind of sensitive. seriously. no offense. "See...now that's gratitude...if you don't want assistance, quit asking me...if you have something to offer, publish it in all it's detail (resizing your pictures would help)...and if it doesn't work when others follow your advice, you help them...if you think you know what you are doing!" owh.i was thought you forgot that line. sir yes sir!. i'll quit asking **** from you from now on,i've had enough mentioning your name in the first place... only if somewhere on the forum you answer questions that you found out came from me i have nothing to do with it. "Therizky, WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU! Can't you be happy standing in the shadow like the rest of the bunch. lol.gif" i'm not hiding,i'm watching. there's nothing wrong with me anyway.take a look. you'll know who attacks or who attacked. or maybe you already knew? as for the each other duties,it just conflicts,it exists, can't avoid it. if someone ever complained why and how the "law enforcements" isn't there at the first place,who...who knows such thing is going to be happened? police always come after the bad guy got killed. but you have to figure out how to get out of **** hole. is that simple...for me. as to the topic, hmf,don't mind useless posts, i have nothing more to contribute,(i am not a loser,if you want to reload your gun,i'll face you) psw obviously can take care all of you sustain seekers. don't give up,keep playing,keep rockin'. but read back,be aware. peace!!!
  7. "Well anyways.. I did a quick test last night. No sustain or anything. Pretty sure I just need to wire it all up properly probably just a bad connection somewhere. I still do have a concern though. I'm using the ruby/fetzer circuit and built it pretty much to exact specs. I think every components value matches the schematic. However the circuit on its own does not power my speaker. I checked my pickups and bridge reads about 8.7 kohms. The only way I can get any sound is if I run the circuit after the mono out from my boss gt-8. I was thinking maybe my speaker requires too much power and the circuit can't power it on its own. Its an 8ohm speaker but it is in a metal housing. Well anyways thats how I've been testing it so far since I don't wanna start desoldering the components in my guitar just yet. The whole loop looks like this.. guitar>gt-8 in> gt-8 out >ruby/fetzer ----------------> gt-8 headphone out > computer speakers/headphones (so I can hear the guitar signal) gt-8 has a bypass where I can just get it to send out the guitar signal or amplify it to the circuit. prettty much the problem is on the circuit, i'm sure what you get is just crackels and fizz coming out of speaker,as gt-8 only boost the signal,pushing the ruby to more oscillating. at first i just eliminating the gain pot (on ruby),and try tweaking filter cap on +v to bigger values. " I haven't checked the voltage on the fet to bias it for 4.5v since I'm using 9v battery, I keep it about half, and don't really notice any excessive noise or anything. I will sooner or later just been kinda lazy. Here are some pics of my progress so far. " how could you the keep power supply at 4.5 without messing with the trimpot? are you using some offboard voltage divider or something? just connect the output at the fetzer directly to your amp to test it,and tweak the trimpot while plucking the string,when you hear flat boosted signal,its done. the voltage should be arrived at 4.3-4.8 volts. ()()()()()(()()() "I attempted to help therizky for the longest time by email and now publicly" e-mail??? WHAT e-mail? i certainly never pm'd or emailed you and you certainly don't know my email address either. the more i read your post the more i confused,.....really, what the hell are you talking about? if the capitalism is your main concern,then you shouldn't mentioned things like personal attacks,gratitude,apology? apology for what? apology for using your design without saying thank you? geezzz,who has messed with your personal life? me? as for this sustainer thing,you are not the only one giving me hands,in fact,only in this thread is,i communicated extensively with you,which in the previous thread,i just ended up figured out the rest by myself. c'mon,everything went alright until you obsessed with that gratitude bullshit that you told me to listen, if you really expecting some gratitude,get the patent for your design and start marketing your thing,no one would ever asked this and that about anything,they just use it. and then you will get many real "gratitude". or maybe you just misleading me with some other guy? "hmmm, therizky with his naivie ideas from the tiles of the kitchen floor where he works?" not naive.just not yet proven,for "that" guy of course. what a shame,you're in diy world and not open for some radical ideas. i was once published multiple output pickup and electromagnetic pickup concept too in pickup makers forum,but the respond was highly underestimate and pessimistic,....then i just ended up experimenting everything in my bed room with everything everywhere.... and don't compare anything,nothing is better or more professional,just different. i tried to make everything as neat and clean as possible but in the end it's all come back to tone,a little scratches or spaghetti of wiring,it's fine....for me. even that cavities is much more crowded by now. even if you want to compare,that strat,even though it's look crap,it has so many tonal variation than the tone variations of all your guitar combined together,with individual pickup controls,phase switches,that multiple coil pickup (mid pickup,not coil tap,just multiple split),series/parallel wiring,"hybrid tone control",and yea,your design of sustainer. not all is original,but it's has been improved by my myself. and can stand in the way of any more advanced guitar with their MIDI thing,kaoss pad,optical pickup,etc. but like i said nothing's better,just different. really,i'm sorry if i have bring any drama to this thread or topic,as i never meant to do that. all i saw is just one guy that too....too narcist. nuff said.
  8. it's bad,real bad. on how you underestimated people. 1.true is that i do use your design and stuff,and never acknowledged them as my own work (ask people who ever checking out my guitar and sustainer,i recommended them to checking out all the thread and tutorial for them to build for themselves). and i never have any intentions to sell it or commercialized it. 2.so what you really want is some little direct appreciations and gratitude for all the infos and help you gave to me. okay,so THANK YOU now just be clear that you don't have to answer or giving help if you don't want. 3.i disagree with all the so-called personal attack and bad attitude you pointed at me,it's YOU who did that to me,say it to yourself. have you ever realized when someone come along with something new to experiment,you just throwed them to their face saying stuff like it was it has been tried before,etc it's like saying "you won't get that thing working,except thru' my path" 4.speaking about capitalism,i know you have "commercialized" your circuit too. so what about that? at least there's one or 2 persons helping development of that circuit. you ain't better then me. "but more and more the questions are abut me explaining why 'wrapping aluminium foil' around something wont help with EMI" it does help,aluminium foil is conductive if you don't know. like sticking big piece of iron between the driver and pu,and its grounded. and sorry for the bad english though,my teacher does come rarely to the class lately,i learned a lot of sarcasm from him.
  9. first off,remember to breath...slowly. second.... i will NEVER sell YOUR design or anything associated with it. did i say anything about using this forum or sustainer ideas here for my own benefit? financial gain???? damn,that's rude. no....not even a word from this forum. here we fellow lonesome musicians taught ourselves to respect any other people properties,opinions and each other work. piracy and anknowledge other people's property as mine is definetely not what am i going to do. i still got some dignity. when i said planning something...yea its still a plan!!! (how COULD you think about me going to make money out of so-called sustainer things consisted out of ruby amp and oscillated distortion circuit? man,that's crazy .surface mount driver is definetely not my style either) maybe it could be happen after 5 or 6 more years from now,after i passed so many "research" and many bugs here and there about it...and learned so many things, if ever....i successful and it does has some slight likeness,it is unintended,and maybe you just missed the part where i wrote "therefore i need to came out,with my own design both driver and circuit" what did i'm gonna use is some common circuit fragments....cutting/amplifying frequency signal (high pass filter,low pass filter),inverting opamp gain stages,diode clippers,voltage biasings,etc which none of it would be related to any circuit in the net or anywhere as i would built it from zero....eventough there is some likeness to them,it is not intended,and possibly coincidences. and 386 would forgotten,as i said i dont really has any good experience with it,and possibly other chip that is more easier to tame. and basic principle of "bridge pickup feeding the driver" is maybe in use too, if those things are forbidden,just forget i would create anything. and maybe some circuit i have from zero should be abondoned too. i respect that you are the pioneer of this sacred diy sustainer thing,and has working intenesively to it. no wonder if you pissed when someone "stealing" it. but i don't sell your design. and will never. how could you find a thief begging a permission to steal something from someone to be stealed? even tried to discussing it? what actually happen is just you judge (me) people too fast,and its dangerous as it could offend them. i'm definetely not a blood sucking retard draining life out of weak people. i don't care being "ridiculous" or misunderstood what fail or what succes.as the world is being built by many ridiculous persons. eventhough i finally realize what i trying to do is just bullshit and in the end i would finally ended up with the things you told,its okay, what matter is the process. so i will not be falling in the same hole. as i have felt falling in it. so are we clear? don't be afraid for someone selling your design or col's or fresh fizz's or any body here (or maybe it is already happened by someones around the globe), cause i ain't gonna do that. just forget it cause it is harmful and vatal.
  10. "I don't recall what a 4558 is, but I assume it is an op amp. All the "power" is coming out of the LM386, all the preamp stage is doing is overloading the input creating distortion and square wave compression and noise. However, if a general preamp design, you can adjust this to zero or even less to a theoretical infinite (power allowing) gain...but this is not preamp gain, not actual raw power that a power amp designed to run a speaker or driver requires. The idea of pushing the circuit and distortions were well and truly discussed and tried in various forms but again and again it comes back to a clean signal close to the signal of the vibrating strings themselves (strings don't actually vibrate in a distorted square wave you understand). Don't mistake distorted with loud or power, it is actually the opposite in many respects..." 4558 is dual opamp,just as old as 386...of course the power that driving the string coming from 386 and 4558 is just making the signal hotter... the main purpose of addinng distortion or comperession is just to help lengthen the signal coming to 386....buying a little bit more time to create infinitum..... which i think in the past,just to cover the fail of the driver. but in my built is just so that the sustainer is compatible with any pickup...even super output one (well,in case one day i need to change to crap low output pickup) "Well...I'm not sure at all about "familiar"...the LM386 should be very stable especially with those extra caps and such, and a proper zobel (if you have messed around with that there could be a problem)..of course if you send a signal into the input with a gain or 100 times, especially with any decent powered hot pickup, you will just get 'mush'...attach a speaker to the circuit in place of the driver and listen to the thing!? "My circuit"...well there have been so many. The more recent versions are a typical LM386 100uF output cap kind of thing and pretty much a buffer only stage and a light adjustable AGC that can be defeated or gives a preamp gain down to zero or "off"...so, no gain at all in the preamp stages for maximum clean and efficiency...but I make a darn good driver! I don't give away my current circuit, but details and pics of previous circuits exist and are based on the basic principles. It is not as 'magic' as people assume and the driver is the heart of things, but I can tell you it is and unusual discrete transistor and contains a novel design...the zobel is only coincidentally associated with the AGC and runs in parallel. There were some interesting ideas floated about on different values, but I can't speak to that. The main purpose of the 'preamp/buffer' is to prevent loading (which you seem to have) and I have a pickup input impedance into the buffer stage of 1Mega ohm...if you have cribbed designs form ordinary audio circuits you might have 10-100K ohm and this may be too small!" it IS very unstable....many 386 circuit are a pit of death....can be very frustating when you think that its done but when you fired it it doesn't turned out good.... smokey amp,grace,big daddy,little gem,smash drive,,,etc,etc but at least there is a little secret on how to make it better. last time i checked input impedance in it is 505,3 komh.... even if it doesnt great enough ...theres still buffer stage in there which will smoothed out the whole thing. AGC= automatic gain control???? i dont know that thing and why is it so important? to safe a battery life when no string is sustained? so no gain stages at all? ****.... how it ...have enough power to drive the guitar? what is actually the wide of the core in that tele? that is bar magnet isnt it? "Well I don't know what side shielding is, but you do realize that copper shielding wont help with electromagnetic interference. You need to pull all ground and hot pickup leads out of circuit (usually by pulling the entire selector from the guitars circuit) and directly attach the bridge hot and ground directly to the circuit input (this can be a permanent connection)...I've published the 4pdt switch to achieve this around and you can see it in the tele thread. "clean sustain" is what you need to aim for, you can add distortions as much as you like in effects or amps. I ahve no idea why you should be getting problems with effects unless you are getting a huge signal from the driver into the pickup and running into the input of a digital effect or something...so hard to tell because you mention so many variables and no details for me to assess it." of course can't shield the driver....but you CAN shield the pickup. not copper,but i wrapped the bridge pickup with a few layer of aluminium foil...actually can use conductive paint and spray it all over it. but it would turned out more ugly.... now,wiring. i myself use 4pdt switch to. just a cheap slide switch... but it looks strong and made entirely from metal....so it can take the job... the tab is from the metal too. what i did is just poke a litte rectangle on the pickguard for the tab to pop out. like the hole for 5 way lever switch.. you say to compeltely disconnected uninvolved pickup. but i don't do that,instead i just connect them all to ground. (middle pu,neck pu,selector,etc) basically just to save wires and make the connection easier. and as the mid and neck pickup lies in the same height as the bridge and driver (and its grounded), it performed big bar side electomagnetic shield that might be leaked to picvkup (if ever worked that way....but no squeal caused by this kind of wiring) "Output cap is to give a bit more of a treble bias to drive the high strings a bit better. However, the result is that it struggles, especially at higher powers, to drive the lower tones (below C 5th fret g string) at the fundamental...it will bloom into a harmonic usually an octave and a 5th above on these notes. If you use a bigger cap, like col did, you may find that high strings struggle, it is in part to compensate for the characteristics of my driver though, he used a completely different driver with his circuit." speaking of driver design...what is bilateraL? two coil,out oif phase,different polarity (like sustainiac ,just curious)???? im planning to commercialized my sustainer for other fellow guitarist here. therefore i need to came out,with my own design both driver and circuit,for the circuit i think its done just use the preamp as signal booster for the pickup....definetely two roles, just wiring game. now driver....how can i encounter electomagnetic unefficient problem that is founded in normal single coil bobbin size drivers? maybe i'll face it with different wire gauges and magnet strength. but luckily i have a fully functional sustainer now....so i don't need to rush chasing those concept. the performance of the sustainer is pretty nuts too. the guitar becoming so sensitive i have to be very careful at playing it. can't play any solo properly! but my favorite is just inserting the cord in the late of night and hear the harmonic without the amp. damn...sometime life is does good. peace!!!
  11. its much easier to use soldering grease....after file off the plating.
  12. "Each guitar can be a bit different as well, the pickup feeding the circuit obviously has an influence on performance, the distance between the pickup and the driver, characteristics of the circuit...if you put a distortion unit in the circuit to the driver you are creating a huge compression, cutting off the top of the wave forms, and boosting every single frequency, not just the dominant tones of the guitar and pickup combination...which could explain a lot if that is the arrangement you are trying. Mostly it is about efficiency and that is why a very good driver coil is important, then less power so you stay clean and under the EMI threashold. Other circuits work, I still tend towards and have gotten very good results form an LM386 type circuit...the preamp or buffer stage is almost entirely there to avoid loading, there should be no change of tone or volume for switching the circuit in or out other than the effect of driving the strings." my circuit is 4558 feeding the 386,the buffer is still exist between them but i think its useless...with very high signal boosting there...likely 100 times. combined with 386 gain might be too much...but i do like pushing the circuit...thats why i put the driver in the neck (routed last fret) for more extra clean headroom. so it is no ideal to shove distorted signal to 386 other than the effect the signal become dirty and noisy? if it does cut high frequencies and stuff i now had to build a new circuit. "#1 hard to tell exactly what is going on there, however, the harmonics will change over the fretboard rising as you get to about the 12th fret and reverting back again there after...you may need to adjust the 'bias' of the circuit, I change my output cap to 100uF to get great high string fundamental sustain but the lower notes tend to become harmonics, potentially you could switch such components for a variety of 'effects' or responses. In ahrmonic mode, I get harmonics on all strings, all the way up...but as I say, they will alter with the overtone series and the arrangement of the guitar. If you are using a distortion of overdriven circuit, you will be boosting the harmonic content and so it may be having trouble driving the fundamentals alone with all this other 'stuff' in the signal." yes i know youre using different stuff for the circuit i have built an 386 circuit with 100uf cap and 10 uf bypass cap...with 10uf at the gain control too,the zobel also get changed a bit... sounds familiar right? 386 is great but the annoying thing is that its very unstable and can oscillates realy easily...even with buffer and preamp stages there. in your circuit is it have any additional gain stages like mine there? opamp or transistor? what is the exactly the dramatic effect of changing output or input cap? other than harmonic bloom "#2 Cant speak to sustainiac, my design is very different in many ways so not a fair comparison. In particular, sustainiac has onboard electronic swithcing, half power may just be switching electronically any number of variable and it isn't the 'power' at all that is being altered, just he switches control signal." so are mine..... well, minus the driver of course. so just reversing the lead can change sustain content right? so it has nothing to do with stuff i mentioned. cheers. #3 Not quite following this, the volume knob of the entire guitar? A volume knob loads the guitar and circuit, that's how it works. How it interacts with pedals, to hard to tell, as for the direction of the knob...that could be a wiring issue. Sounds like there are 'issues' and perhaps it is in your strategy of using distortion or something. As I say, aim to adjust the circuit so that you can get clean sustain with minimal noise (or none) with a clean signal on the amp. The volume control will operate as an intensity thing as loading this will also generally load the signal into the circuit driving the strings...it depends a little on how it is wired though...ideally you should get exactly the same sustain even with the volume to zero so you can do volume swells into note and such, the signal to the driver should be taken directly from the bridge pickup and remember that all other pickups need to be completely bypassed (hot and grounds) to avoid issues there. no...not wiring.... im good at it i can tell you. maybe i just described it wrong. sustainer input attached to one of the bridge pickup's lead all the time right? i have tried solder it to lug 2 of volume pot,but it just robbing sustainer's strenght the rest of the circuit is just grounded,including mid and neck pickup too just to provided something i called "side shielding". "I had my sustainer guitar with me yesterday on my weekly jam and haven't played it for a while, the battery is fairly old now as well, but the thing still works perfectly with your basic 3mm coil and fairly simple LM386 circuit. When I talk about 'clean' I am not making a value judgment on the kind of tone people might choose, it sounds great distorted, but this comes from the amp or pedals and you can go nuts with all kinds of effects, but the signal coming out of the guitar should remain the same and certainly shouldn't suffer for having this device in it...the only way you are going to be able to hear what is going on is if you use a clean signal for testing, and to get predictable and superior results, a pretty 'straight' signal driving the strings, something akin to the vibration of the strings themselves...hope that makes sense and is of use..." "clean" sustain is hard....i always get a bit of hum even at the point when the sustain is very weak.... maybe because it just natural having active circuit there and leak some unwanted noise. actuallly the only problem to be solved now is why my sustainer dont work with certain pedals.... either its distortions or modulations. can you provide me some links to the page where there are enough info about col's circuit design? cant seem to find in that huge thread. peace!!!
  13. so have you guys done it yet? well,congrats for wherever you're at now....anyway,glad to see sustainer thing come back....me also beginner at this thing too and have found that sustainer is very addictive to play...as everyone would said. i did it on a strat copy with bobbinless driver and Ruby and distortion circuit in front of it,put the driver on scalloped 24th fret with preset drive setting and just phase switch. and psw,i have some several questions about my build,and some stuff regarded to it...just cant figured out the answers. 1.with my build i have found that i couldn't get fundamental sustain,especially on high notes,when i reversed the lead (harmonic mode) it worked great,but fortunately on higher fret it turns to fundamental sustain...kind of mix mode on commercial sustain...and also i have found that feedback content could be manipulated with the pedal being used...mostly with high gain pedal,high notes mostly fundamentals. 2.sustainiac manuals said that harmonic mode is occured when connecting half of the power supply to one point,are they manipulating some voltage biasing or something?...so my thought is that my sustainer don't work by reversing the driver lead,i have tried reversing pickup lead with no success.... is this possible to find the error there?...or just need to find another circuit?...driver certainly fine i can assure that...been builded with the "law" highly pronounced here. 3.sustain intensity can be contolled by volume knob,rotated clockwise sustain become weaker,with some pedals no sustain,anti clockwise sustain become more intense...finally when no signal supplied to amp,max drive... is this normal or the sustain circuit suck tone? thanx for any reply. peace!!!
  14. What's up guys!? sustainer thread again here,hope people dont get bored yet....the answer might be buried in the original thread or others...but i bother reading thru' 300 pages...it just adding more pain and headache....i already tried googling it but somehow projectguitar site dont really friendly wiht google...dunno what happen there. ive done it...i followed the old tutorial,might be expired,but i think i can take that as my true start line. First,take a look at the whole mess. Uploaded with ImageShack.us 1.Driver -the driver made from 6.1*6.1*55mm long iron bar,wound with a few turns of 0,2 wires,my dmm came up at 8.1 ohms...done ( i know that psw suggest to use 3mm thick core...but i dont have that at the time,but DEFINATELY will build it as he is so sure about it) 2.Circuit -just use Ruby,my bridge pup is really countable.but i have an onboard fetzer also...but likely will not gonna use it. the transistor is 2n5457 and i implemented the zobel network mod suggested...10 ohm resistor and 10uf cap (i know it supposted to be 8 ohm,but dont have it) the output cap is 100uf Uploaded with ImageShack.us 3.Sensing PUP (bridge PUP) other winder could give some good opinion here. the bridge pickup is high output if i can say that, its a homemade humbucker with 9500 turns of each bobbin and long ceramic bar magnet as the core DCR is 25.7 k.... (my guitar is a strat copy...my own frankenstrat,i have post it on "sustainer problem" thraed,but it must be long gone) now lets get to the problem. 1.it works so F*((*^&n great... on fundamental mode no doubts...but still a little hard to drive high e...but mostly because the pickup is too dark..im plannig to remove fetzer and replece it with some treble booster. 2.Harmonic mode?? not at all...its squealing like a dying old man...i think this is where all the fun get paid off.... driver poles get in phase (or out phase???) with bridge pup? i removed the driver and the pickup out from the guitar...sit it on the floor and the same thing happen...so im convinced it wasnt because the internal wirinng and effect (got one booster and distortion built in,and busy damn ass wiring) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us solution? 1.switch the bridge pickup?? no,im in love with my own work,it gives hard bad ass distortion that ive been looking for so this is my dead price. 2.reducing the gain, the squeling stops when the ruby dont have enough power even to drive open big e string.....strange...is using audio pot cure this? im using trimers 3.shielding is someone has any good idea on how to shield the driver? im thinking to wrap it wit aluminum foil...and it will grounded of course. i will make pickup cover (brass or plate) for my humby too. thats it...i know the problem is mostly because the pickup is pushing the ruby too hard...but i have sacrificed my neck pup,not a good idea to kill the bridge also. thanks...lookin forward for your reply. peace!
  15. 1."Far too much power there....you clearly have some major problems with the circuits you have tried and this is likely to continue...perhaps you could find someone with more experience in these things to get it going properly." yeah...since we're not talking about circuits that run on 2 amperes currents and provide 20 watts of power i think its out of disscussion...and im gonna think it over and over again to put it in my guitar. 2."Not sure what "power glue" is. If it is "super glue" I would avoid it completely. Same with fast epoxies. The wood glue method was recommended by me and extensively tested as being safe, easy, reversible and effective. Even though it won't set "solid" like a proper epoxy coil (which is specialized, thin, slow acting stuff and expensive) and be self supporting...the wood glue method will gap fill and set enough to be very effective as a damping material if the instructions are followed. That means, pushing the sides in occasionally so that the coil has minimum gaps, and that the whole thing is taped tight, clamped and given a long time to "set"" no...its just daily cyanoacrylate (is that spelled right?)....but the wood glue method seems to be easy and cheap too,im gonna try it in the next build. 3."Otherwise, I think the main problem is that your circuit seems to be having trouble even with a speaker...so it is not going to work with the higher demands of a sustainer. The mods suggested, caps to stabilize a LM386 circuit, the lower output cap and such will work. For testing purposes, most stomp boxes have an active buffer...any boss box will have one even when off...and this can be used as a buffer to an LM386 circuit. AC powered sustainers are a very bad idea IMHO. You have to realize that a coil of wire with 20 watts into it is effectively a bar radiator = heater...see the first post of the sustainer thread...these things can get seriously hot, just before they literally melt!" yeah...the lm386 never being a good boy to me....little gem circuit relly need some improvement too...i wonder why rog didnt give some notes there...they just suggested to use another input and grounded the second one...it doesnt give much help......for the buffer,im gonna use 741 chip based,found somewhere on the net,but forgot the site,gotta google it again now. and the 20 watts driver become hot....not only the driver,but the ic also (guy who sells it recommend me to use heatshrink)...not as heat as radiator,but yes,its hot...dont have anything againts that one. 4."So...it's not the guitar...post some pics and some real details. I don't know what the buffer FF offered was, so I can't comment...but any number of things may have gone or are wrong with your circuit and potentially the newer driver is ok, it just isn't getting an appropriate signal. This kind of "it doesn't work" posts are exactly the things that others latch on to and then suggest that the design is at fault. This clearly isn't the case, but it has come up a lot lately, over at another forum as well, and it seems to stem a lot from simply not following the design or bad workmanship to an overwhelming degree. The best thing is to completely show exactly what you are doing...the driver, the guitar, the circuit and the diagrams you are following. Don't think that the guitar is cursed or fall for the more power will fix all ills approach, it only ever makes things worse!" the buffer ff offered is right <A HREF="http://http://www.muzique.com/lab/buffers.htm">here</A> ,and i didnt said that the design is fault,i just said that diffrent guitar would yield different results also...its simple,different brand,different pickups,different geometry...each will give different result and also need special care to be worked on...maybe thats why people keep facing different funny problem over and over again. well,anyway this is my whole work for 4 months...its flying around my room...i dunno where the rest. 1.first,the driver <img src=> currently in use is the left one,with black electrical tape. 2.the circuits. <img src=> has built some circuit to be worked with...up there is ruby,fetzer,bjt buffer ruby,little gem,amz muffer,,tiny audio,utylity boost by tim escobedo,and the biggest one is blink sustainer i was talking about. 3.now,the guitar. this is my current setup,the little gem loaded with amz muffer....looks to be worked,but it didnt. <img src=> <img src=> <img src=> some zoom in.....dont need to phase the driver,my strat has individual pickup control and phase switches...so i could try it on each pickup..or all three... now some picture of the circuits...running out of hookups wire,i use the wire instead. <img src=> curent sustainer <img src=> the two circuit. what should i do now? can someone suggest me another chip or circuit to be worked with? what is the disadvantages if using a little bigger wire,other than it takes more spaces? ive been built some stompboxes project before and also wound my own pickups...this project take me beyond the two...if only i succeded. please help.
  16. hi...whats up? sorry the reply tooks too long....the personal life suck my a**. 1.one night,ive decided to quit joking around...get some 0,2 wires (as everybody said would work most effective),a dozen of "power glue",wound it to the tiny plate stell as the magnet as it core, tide it to a dmm and get a 8,0 ohms driver....done ......but by the way its still humming,i think its impossible to make it completely silence,except i dont' connect it to the circuit 2.for the circuit,i added bjt buffer in front of little gem from the link that fresh fizz has provide (thanks man,really appreciate that) ,but i dunno, when i connect it to the speaker,the high frequencies still sucked up,and never sound smooth or as normal as it supossed be....i think im gonna switch to another circuit....will "stereomicroamp" from the tonepad.com works? its opamp based and stereo (got two channel). 3.anyway,i got a TA8210 based circuit,the power is crazy,20 watts,and it can take loads of 32 ohms,to be honest i have tried it,i run it on 12volts 2 amperes adapter and use 32ohms driver...it works no doubt...all 3 low strings has moved even before i touch it....but yet the high frequencies response not that good,i think theres a "X" factor that come with every guitar that make the thing wont work as expected...i dunno...maybe the neck,wood,magnetic fields,bridges,etc.theres no way to cure it except move to another guitar. maybe in the next post ill post some pics about my builds and the "blink sustainer" (named it after the name of pop-punky teenager band,you know who and why) ,just so that someone would find the error of the builds and free me from opening dictionary for my lack of english......and maybe in the end,if finally icouldnt make it right,i quit the 9v version,get stereo guitar sockets,get a box for the adapter,and own a unmatched magnetic sustainer. the only downfall is i must bring the box all the time with my guitar,and have to bug stage crew for ac line....not a very good idea. thanks....
  17. what do you mean? if youre looking for pcb version of ruby or fetzer ,just go to the runoffgroove.com,thres a link on the article that will lead you to download the pcb version of it by pablo de luca,and i think its too simple to be build on pcb,......perfboard its fun and cool....if only i got the transistor
  18. cool...thanks for the feedback...now im thinking that im one step closer to never ending notes..,haha 1."The buffer is there for a reason. If you don't have a buffer, the low input impedance of a LM386 based amp iwl 'suck tone' from the output. The fetzer/ruby is not ideal for a sustainer as it was designed as an amp to give a warm valvy tone, not to provide optimum buffering and drive for a sustainer," -have tried that input buffer provided by Fresh fizz last night...unfortunately the little gem doesnt interact very good with buffer on its input... maybe ill find another way... but is theres any otehr guys around here have experienced working with this circuit (with or without buffer on it) ? iam afraid that this circuitr wont work for this 2."0.1mm wire is not (as may seem intuitive to some) half the size of 0.2mm wire. This important thing is how much copper there is per unit length of wire - this is proportional to the area of the cross section of the wire. Assuming the cross section is a circle. The formula for area of circle is PI * radius squared So half the size of 0.2mm wire would be sqrt( (0.2^2)/2 ) = ~0.14. So in reality, the nearest guage to 'half' of 0.2mm is 0.15mm not 0.1mm ( ^ means 'to the power of', so 0.2^2 is the same as 0.2squared) 0.2mm wire is actually 4 times the size of 0.1mm wire ! this means that 0.1mm wire has 4 times the resistance of 0.2mm wire (for the same length of wire) ( 0.1^2 / 0.2^2 = 4)" -ok,if 0,10 wire has 4 times resistances than 0.2 wires,then the whole thing should be like this. if 125 turns of 0.2 mm is 8 ohms. then 125 turns of 0.1 mm is 32 ohms then all i have to do is just divide it by 4,the overall turns for 0.1 mm wires to achieve 8ohms is just 31,25 turns.........is this correct? and also i have tried that pickup calculator,it shows 34 turns...not so different 3.,the starngest thing about my driver is,no matter how many turns of wires and the sizes of it (i have treied 100,200,300,150,64 turns of 0,1 mm and a thicker wire,which i dunno the dia. but still on the same numbers of turns mentioned above) the driver itself generates sound! hum,squeal,and even the sound of the string itself....meaning that the driver acts as speaker even without a CONE.....is this normal?...if it is normAl,then thres nothing to worry about...and if someone ever asked,i didnt pot or glue the driver...i only use alitlle "playdoh" to make the driver stay still...is this the answer that my sustainer become very weak? that the energy come out as sound and not electromagnetic pulse? 4."measure the resistance of your sustainer driver coil. Calculate how many turns of windings you need to get 16 ohms. Let's say you measure 64 ohms then you need 300 * 16 / 64 = 75 turns. What you have to do now is to wind 2 coils with 75 turns on top of each other and connect them in parallel. Then you obtain an 8 ohms driver." - i actually dont raelly understand this formula...please explain. my driver measures 76.8(as col has posted) so i multiply the number of turns with 16 ohm(why 16 ohm?) then divide it with the impedances 300*16/76,8 = 62,5 the results is different again......then why should i wind two coils? and connect them in parallel? are they some kind of sharing currents or something?sustainer driver actually only need one coil isnt it?
  19. hi...whats up? this is my first post,and straight to sustainer thing...ive been working on this project and i dont seem to get it work properly, here is my setup,due to fet transistor existence in my country,i dont use ruby or fetzer valve, i use little gem as the power amp,i think its ok,coz the fet part on the ruby just act as input buffer,and for the driver, i wound 300 turns of 0,10 wire,about 38 AWG in america. the thing works,but only produce WEAK sustain and harmonic,on sustain mode i still need to turn my amp power a little louder,and on harmonic mode,it should be a squeal to produce harmonic,meaning that i should get the driver and pickups close to each other. my first thought was,the little gem doesnt enought preamp in order to drive the string,but how could it doesnt strong enought? since lm386 could produce 200 times of gain?,i think the error is on driver coz it use thin wire and more turns...but i dunno please help.
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