Jump to content

olyen

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    96

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by olyen

  1. olyen
    thank you man ,it was certainly a lot of work,now i know why some guitars can be very expensive.
  2. olyen
    No, not at all, I just like to debate topics occasionally, nothing wrong with a little debate once in awhile is there? You are correct on all counts, a scraper is a good way to do it also. Can you spray nitro over a tung oil finish? is that what you said before? cause i have a bas that i would like to refinish butsomewhere i read that once you put oil in the wood you cant spray anything else I have the same problem with a nice top that i left natural but it looks too plain,i would like to strip and spray a light shade of amber,i just thought i might get fisheye or stuf like that cause of the oil.What do you think?
  3. olyen
    I havent drill the holes for the tailpieces yet ,I dont have the money to get the bridge beleive it or not ,so i ll wait till i have that with me,but I do know what you are talking about ,from experience,thanks for reminding me though.
  4. olyen
    that is behlen lacquer for instr.the color I applied on both was honey amber with a bit of brown to darken it a bit and the sanded back and just a clearer amber,after that a little brown and red for the sunburst,i dont really know much about this, mostly tint the lacquer for the sunburst always starting with a clear shade and then darkening it up till im happy with the color ,i think its safer that way,here s some progress pics ,not much but something,comments are all welcome. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS145.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...sGuitars011.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...sGuitars003.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS002.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS005.jpg
  5. olyen
    yeah it s the instrument laquer ,i m still at the spraying early stages, i ll post some pics when it s all buffed and polished too,that is another phase i havent got down like the good builders around here, ill keep trying though,thanks for the comments they are always welcome, good and bad,thanks again.
  6. olyen
    After two years of trial and error,i am happy to say i am liking the results,thanks to all of you good folks for the support and the information in this site. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS001.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS015.jpg
  7. olyen
    http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com/PRS22.htm
  8. olyen
  9. olyen
    If it's really nice wood, it maybe better leaving that for a future project and using something a bit cheaper.
  10. olyen
    they are expensive for one,but then again that s probably not a valid excuse since i should spend money if i want it good ,but also I havent done it before and I ve heard some people say it s more likely to get dead spots in you neck or something like that ,I wouldnt know how true that is ,but i just dont feel very tempted to use them unless i m assured that i need to,if it makes any sense.
  11. olyen
    that s it I am officially letting this go to another project and building another neck, I might as well ,I have some flatsawn heavy figured maple i intend to use, do you think if I keep it on the beefy side ,i wouldnt need the reinforcement carbon rods?,well that is the plan for now,another option is,splice it in half and just laminate it ,i dont know yet. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture018.jpg
  12. olyen
    i think you are very right,i have glued rosewood before and it s hard to find the seam,maybe it wont show at all depending of course in how good i do it ,are you very certain it wont collapse though?, i really dont wanna build another neck for it , as you can tell,this really sound like a good idea to me.
  13. olyen
    hey man I really like Russ's idea of the extension , but then again I dont know, wouldnt it be the same though?
  14. olyen
    just what i pressumed,you are right i didnt wanna hear it ,the neck hasnt been carved yet and the heel is not gonna be like that at all,man i really hate when these things happen ,oh well!! live and learn right?,thank you very much for the quick responses.
  15. olyen
    hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg
  16. olyen
    thanks for the replies guys,and one more question ,when you say a good playing action is this a good shredding action we are talking about here, I really need it to be low on this one,just for fun.
  17. olyen
    Hello Gentlemen,I have a bit of a problem with a fingerboard radiused to 9.5 and I wanna use a non tremolo kind of bridge only it seems that they all have a 12 radius,is there a way to make this combination work and still get a good low action or should I just get a bridge with adjustable saddles?but I really want to put that wraparound system on it.thanks for any input.
  18. olyen
    my friend has an epi LP special, and he hated the pickups cause they sounded muddy to him,i actually kind of like a sound with a lot of lows and didnt mind the sound,anyway, i bought the pickups from him and put them in a LP i builtwith a 1inch maple top and a mahogany back,you wouldnt believe the difference in sound,is a lot more rounded much more highs in the tone,so i guess the wood does make a difference,my 10c
  19. olyen
    I ve heard of drop filling, burning sticks,or several other ways ,it will certainly help people around here to know what type of wood you are finishing,i am a newbie myself but in the past i have filled these kind of things with a bit of clear lacquer using a q tip,it worked for me.Good luck with that anyways.
  20. olyen
    . If you have to back out of a cut..turn the saw off first and then back out of it. Backing out with the saw running is a good way to bend/break blades. Cheers Martin
  21. olyen
    Olven, Is that piece of spruce solid or is it ply? I was assuming it was ply in my last post. Cheers Martin
  22. olyen
    well,I made the jig with the pin aligned to the drill bit in the Drill press with a stop in 1/4 inch, the i used an old chisel that i got i dont know were with a plastic hammer to get rid of the chunks,it worked pretty good,then became tricky cause i dont wanna thin the platetoo much,I was using my orbital sander but took too long ,so i went and chiseled again,problem is I got some chips that left little holes,anyways after that i sanded and it seems to be oK, i only hope that I dont cry when i have to cothe same in the maple back,i arved maple before but always just the top and used even a grinder with the sanding device,didnt have to follow any pattern or thickness ,this is very different, by the way, i already ordered some spruce from someone on ebay ,I know it will be better tonewood and hopefully i ll heve a better idea of what to do by then.
  23. olyen
    I agree 100% with you on that. What can I say,a luthier wanna be, thats me. I am still working on smothing the inside of the top and later another nighmare,the bracing, i ll post pics of that too.
  24. olyen
    I carved it to 1/4 inch,and still struglin with the inside,but I see it also as a practice for when I get a better top.
  25. olyen
    here s some pics of the actual piece,I guess it s late to bakeit now. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS095.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS094.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olye...SGUITARS097.jpg
×
×
  • Create New...