komodo

Good question. I'd say "not big long strokes along the face or edge of a board."

That's immediately what I was wondering, it's a great piece of wood. Looks like EIR to me.

So, I just went down a plane rabbit hole recently. Mostly because I was buying old ones and refinishing them which I found enjoyable, and also to 'try out" a few to see if I like a 3, 4, 5 or 5 1/2. For guitars, I got a couple Stanley adjustable-mouth, low-angle blocks that are SO handy and great with figured woods. All of them are 1890 - 1950 and are noticeably better than any newer stuff. One thing to note, the low-angle block plane uses the iron with the the bevel UP and has a 37 degree cutting angle which is a mix of the iron angle and the bevel - if you grind the bevel at 25 degree

Limba is an absolutely fantastic tone wood. More tonier(tm) than most any other wood I’ve used. It has this incredibly resonant mid that just sings. It doesn’t stick out, but sounds like warm mahogany with a focused lively voice. I’d use it for the body and center core. I’ve not used walnut, but thought it was warm in tone? Your topwood is probably the one to consider most. Using any tonewood ‘recipe’ used by David is certainly going to be good. He absolutely knows and has tried most of them.

As much as I like the clear only, the burst on the spalt is killer. If it were me, I’d consider a light burst. Just a darker honey around those edges keeping most of it clear.

I’d love to see it. What amp design is it?

I've used that same Gotoh 510, but man oh man the Ibanez tailpiece and harmonica bridge is the perfect choice here.

I'd like to do a tour of all of Europe and visit every single person in their hometown. Or just go to Belgium and drink beer. We have new found family in Eastern France near Geneva, and will most likely be making a trip there when Covid is taken care of.

I’m not even a Tele guy (though the metal tele I built is probably my most played guitar) and I’d pick both of those. The black guard on the first lets the oak speak louder, and the maple neck ties it together. The second looks like something Steve Morse would rip your head off with.

ZERO implications here!

If you fix the neck first, then mount the outer tuners and use a couple strings with your bridge, you can adjust the exact position and scale length. You can still be accurate other ways, but two things you can really fine tune are: 1) space between outer strings and edge of fret board, and 2) scale length / adjustment range of your bridge. Sometimes those can be tricky because of string gauges, bridge style, multi-scale, etc. This is also a place where you can really check and fine tune the overall relationships of the neck height/angle, string height/action, bridge saddle adjustment. Ho

Yes non piezo. The one thing I really don't like, is all the very bridge specific holes/routes. I'm not sure why it bugs me with this one vs a TOM setup or something, but it does.

I grew up in Minnesota, and saunas were pretty common. Very large Scandinavian population there. Similar to your saunas on hot days, we would eat ice cream on cold days. Actually makes you feel warmer.

Nice! I can't believe it's been that long since we've seen this.

That's gorgeous.