jessejames

That is some beautiful work you do. I'm jealous!

Wanting something that is at least 3" wide x 30" long x 2 3/4" thick. I have paypal and can pay immediately. If claro, I don't need it super figured, just a nice piece. If sapelle, a nice ribbon would be appreciated. Price range depends on quality of piece of course, not looking to spend more than $100.00 however.

Thanks! I spent about an hour and a half on that top, I just used my router and stepped it up like you see in the first pic, then I got my DA sander and some 60 grit to blend it all, then went over it with 80, then 150. I am going to leave it natural. It looks good as is, so I'm not gonna try to color it.

I carved the top today and routed for the cavity covers in the back, I didn't get the knob recesses right, never tried em before, I was able to make them look alright though, it's the first time I've ever carved a top, did I do bad or good? I need some honest opinions. I wet the grain down to show how it will look finished.

I did get it for free, the first one that I used cost me 30$, so that would probably be the price for the rest of you guys. This one he just sent me on accident and told me not to worry about paying for it, although I did try to.

hahaha, i put copy!

Yeah, I put my templates over it and it should be routed out for the covers, so it's now a non issue. And thanks on that wood, I got it for like 30$! But then I had to go get it planed at the local cabinet shop, who seem to be able to plane all my warped wood flat, and all my flat wood they seem to put a bow in. Not sure how they do it. Anyway, the supplier I got that certain piece from was this guy from this auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300494988089&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1273wt_1140 Another good supplier of mine that has some nice ribbon mahogany are these people too http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200354446515&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Same here, that will teach me to defend someone. These other guys are dead right and I was dead wrong.

Got a mahogany slab in for free, was an errant ship, seller didnt even want me to pay! So I thought I would do a full mahogany bodied PRS copy. I did have minor chipout on the back trem section because I stupidly drilled from the top instead of trying to meet my top drill halfway through the bottom. Decided to fix it with some titebond II and dust I got from the slab, after sanding it out I hope it will blend in pretty well. Anyway, I did all this today, hope you enjoy!

I am more of the constructive criticism camp - which should be positive as well as pointing out any room for improvement - tbh i get quite annoyed when all i get is "wow - nice build" responses. Thats fine in everyday life (and from my mother) but i want something more constructive from a bunch of specialists so thats what i try and give. I couldnt give a buggery about the logo thing, unless i saw it listed for sale somewhere as genuine The reason I dont throw in my .02, is because a lot of these guys are waaaaaay better than I am. I am in no position to criticize at all. Even if there is something I dont like and wouldn't do myself, I'm not gonna burn a bridge from a future friend by criticizing it. And some people can take it, some can't. So you never know who's ass you're gonna chap. The only criticism I have ever brought here was in terms of the hiscock book, but I dont plan on buying the second, so that's a line im comfortable crossing.

It's not a forgery unless he tries to sell it as an original, or states it is an original, until then, it's a replica. That's federal law, your opinion is your opinion and you are entitled to it, but suffice to say in this case it is wrong as proven by facts. Not trying to start anything with you, but you're giving him undue grief.

Actually I see where it didn't press flat against the backing board in some areas. I don't think it will be a problem as these areas were likely to be scrap anyway, I'm going to be gluing something else up tomorrow, I think I will use some long boards across the top and back this next time.

Can you loan me some more?

I dont think there will be any seperation from the top and back like I had last time.

Very nice job! Looks awesome! Very close to the original!

I haven't routed for a trem yet, I do know that they are offset, but it is my understanding that the outside edge should line up with the height adjustment routings on the pickups like so. I could be mistaken and hopefully someone will come in and clarify.

Next time try drawing a common center line across the length of the board in addition to your X's. Also try drilling with a smaller bit (but not to depth, just to make sure you're on center) and then go back over it with a bit that is to your spec.

I didn't think it was a "major" score. But compared to what you normally get for 30$ to your door, it has a ton more figuring than what I was expecting. I would like to do a cherry burst on it, we'll see if i can pull it off. I still gotta build that tele first. I just saw your site too, nice work!

I dont have the luxury of cabinet makers or lumber yards to choose from here. I thought for 30$ I was going to be getting just a paintable top, but when I wet it down and saw the figure it looked like a 59' les paul top to me.

Not bad for a 3/4" thick top 30$ shipped to my door.

Scored this for 30$ shipped to my house. Was going to do a PRS style, but that top completely screams 59" les paul.

Why not take the frets out, re-radius the and scallop the fretboard? Might be able to save the neck that way.

I just used a 1/2" router bit and an MDF template. Looks very nice IMO. I like it when the strings are close to the body so a recessed TOM is what I go for on most of my guitars (unless its an LP or arch top) Great work! did you make your own template or did you buy one?

What is your technique on doing this? I've only practiced it twice, but I'm not getting it perfect. I would like not to angle the necks so much on my TOM bridge guitars. I have so far tried using my paddle bit to get the rounded edges then using a straight edge with my router, but I can't get it perfect. I can get it close, but if it isn't perfect then it looks like crap. Just wondering how you do it or if there is an easier way.

Excellent idea. I just might try that out when I build an LP style guitar. My idea was to have some kind of adjustment screws at the bridge end but a simple block of wood seems so much easier. How do you clamp on the neck side of things? Assuming you use a router to take the neck pocket wood, the clamps would get in the way, no? Clamping in the middle might bend the template, unless you add another piece of wood under there. I'd just use double sided tape instead of clamps in this situation, clamps are likely to alter the angle you're going after as well.