jessejames

I dont do laminations because I dont like the way they look, but also because I'm afraid this would happen. If it were me, I would do a burst on the back and heavily color the heel transition area for a few inches both ways to help hide the mismatched transition.

Yes, it is true craftsmanship. Take the time to learn a CNC program, get everything spec'd out right, and get all your tooling setup, and you will see how much time goes into learning it.

Just dont buy a used CNC!

Just exactly that, a different voicing. That is why there is so much going on around the bridge.

PRS doesnt use SS frets

The man prefers it for all of his own individual guitars, that or a solid brazilian rosewood neck.

It's what they make violin bows out of. Paul Reed Smith swears it's one of the best tonewoods in existance. The pernambuco neck PRS's go for big money.

Very close.

Flame Maple top, Curly Black Limba back, Brazilian Rosewood Fretboard, Pernambuco neck

Sounds good!

I like Huf, he's always been cool to me, and he's a successful guitar builder who is always willing to share knowledge.

I really like your explorer design. A nice take on a classic design.

Oh, and the cost was 100$. Material and time for all 4. $25 a template, not too shabby for what it is.

I've never had a bit dig into the actual template. I just built my first body from these templates, worked like a charm. I do use a router table though.

Love these templates.

I had some old templates that were made out of lexan, but the bit used to get hot and melt and instantly ruin the templates. This time, I had them made out of 10 gauge steel. I can use them to help press the top to the body. And, the bit will never get hot and these should never wear out. I had these water jetted out. Finally a cure to my template blues!

Looking to get one. If interested in selling I'm interested in buying!

I am starting to kick off and I need some intense curl maple. The nice white intense curl stuff. If you have it book match I need it 21" long by 7" wide by at least .75" thick per plank.

I can process my own stuff so billets also welcome.

If in billet, 21" long by 7" wide by at least 6/4 or 7/4 thickness.

These are minimum measurements. I am willing to pay good for the good stuff. PM me or email me at jeguitars@hotmail.com

Mild update, slotted a board, cut it, glued it to the neck, then used my laser sight to ensure it was all on the centerline, it's dead on. Gotta get one of those long stew mac radius beams and some humbucker kits and I should be done pretty quick after that.

I made a 3D model of this in solidworks, I will be getting another CNC soon and production should ramp up after learning the perils of making what's on your computer come to life with the CNC.

I think I will make one like this and carve the top and see what the consensus is after that.

Next to it is my singlecut design that's been on here multiple times. I made this in ArtCam but since I sold my CNC I finished it by hand, but making my own CAD files I can now send them to the waterjet company and have them cut out in aluminum.

Any thoughts on the new design?

I've never messed with cocobolo, on future builds I will be using it though and am wary of it's repuatation. I would watch it when you start working with this stuff, I have never read about ziricote being irritated, but it's sure irritated me so far.

It's probably like a mahogany in terms of workability. Only problem I have found is that it is an extreme irritant, if you are sanding this even just a little bit you better have a mask on. I typically don't wear a mask even while bandsawing, but with this stuff, the first time I did that, the second time, I had my mask on. This will make your sinuses go crazy.

I also HIGHLY suspect that is not the original bridge. It has no up route, and looks like there was probably a wilkinson style that was on it that was erroneously replaced with a cheap floyd rose along the way and was poorly chiseled out to fit.