kmensik

Oh, the orange stripe looks very red to me, that's what confused me.

How come the first neck bolt did not run into the truss rod? Is the nut in the neck that shallow? I wanted to make a 1 bolt neck joint, but I would hit the truss rod with the drill bit.

I make the bottom hole a plain rectangle because I don't like the offset T hole. Usually there is no need to access the trem arm from the back, only the springs. The trem block should always be shallower than the body thickness, so there can be a few mm thick bottom under it.

I like the island in the control cavity to hold the cover. Then I thought there is something wrong in it. Is the tropical fish cap 4,7nF instead of 47nF?

Oh my, when I stared my first build I had no idea what i'm doing or what the result will look like. Points for you for preparation. Looking forward to see you progress.

I like the ergonomic one. Not sure about the breaks in the outer horn curves, too devilish. The neck heel at the body seems to be curved upside down, more access at the bass strings, less at treble strings. Might work anyway, it's just uncommon.

My last build looks just like your drwing. It came from the Ibanez S principle, but went half way only with the carving. I made two S bodies before handling the tasks you are asking about. Those very thin japanese sabres use a lower profile OTAX VLX91 switch.

Teen

My fourth comlete build. Built for mysef in a desire for a P90 guitar.

• Pine body
• African mahogany deep set neck, asymetrical profile (heavier at thin strings, thinner at wound strings)
• Pearwood fingerboard, 27" baritone scale, 24 medium jumbo frets, alluminum side dots, fluorescent at 12th and 24th fret
• Kent Armstrong (Sky Pickups) S10+S90
• Ibanez Short Stop II wraparound bridge in satin nickel
• Bone nut
• One volume, one switch

Many lessons learned. Build thread starts here http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48164-ibanez-rg-my-2nd-build/?do=findComment&comment=557100

This thing barks just like a P90 guitar should. Some lame sound tests:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1tdCrJDeERDWFR2cU9wQUVqZk0

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1tdCrJDeERDRUVUUnFXNnFFQk0

Thanks for the nice words.

Well, my birch tele got nicknamed IKEA, though it was not made of little blocks as their kitchen tops are.

This pine sounds great, has some nasal mid scoop and hump wich makes it speak. The bridge P90 is a bit too trebly and weak, neck is a monster.

I do not want to cut the pickup leads, and they are long. If they stay firmly in the cavity and do not short any contacts, i keep it without cover. I like it that way, though my wiring it is a bit mess. Maybe a sunken cover on some posts, as I will not be willing to add the recess.

So this baritone is finished. I applied Hartwachsöl with a brush, wich left deep streaks. I sanded most of it down and applied next three light coats with a cloth. Should have used a cloth from the start. It takes a day for one light coat to dry in a warm room. That pine is still soft under that wax, so I made a few dings when installing hardware. Luckily they let me burnish them down so they are lost in other little imperfections. On those mahoganies on the neck the wax is awsome.

I thought I am good at soldering electronics, but this one was hard. New japanese pot was randomly cutting the signal, it took time to find it is the new pot and not other reused components. I always loose my patience. But it is done now.

Tried to patch that drill bit run out. It is not perfect, but not as disturbing.

I added a little belly carve only to be more comfortable on my ribs when sitting.

I strung it up without pickups, it sounds so alive, going to love it. Now comes the long sanding. Still hesitating whether to put on OSMO Hartwachsöl or wipe on nitro. The oil is more natural, but has no UV filter, so the pine will turn dark after time.

Volume knob and switch are perpendicular to the curved top, it was a bit tricky to make them sit in the cavity slightly tilted.Bone nut.

The controls should be minimalistic, so a tele cavity is just fine. This time drilling the jack recess went well. But I messed up the cable channel from the neck pickup, too shallow angle and the drill bit showed through the top. Silly me. I glued one big chip back and filled the rest. It is just not under the volume knob, it will be visible. Then I rough carved the body to neck joint. Is the shape OK to your eyes? Or should I round the corner below the upper horn? I will refine it after the neck is glued in, but rough shaping is better done separetly.

Nice workshop, pretty large. Just need better glass panes. I hate PU foam, though I use it all the time.

What is it under that red box?

Finaly some progress. Scrap MDF template for P90 (36x87mm, 1/2" bit), test route into blockboard, clean routes. The half inch bit fits the corners pretty well, though 10mm would fit a little better.

I did my best not to chip out. This wood chips just by touching the outlines, I sand the edges right after routing to prevent a splinter being caught by my shirt.

Now all I did since are two bridge holes. I bought one very nice Gibraltar Plus in cosmo black and one wraparound in satin nickel. Lovely. Early christmas. The stud line is not slanted so I can choose which one I use depending on what tuners I can get, but I incline to the nickel one.

Yeah, that eye. I am afraid it will be lost, some contours must be done. I was planning a drop top and a belly cut. Not fully carved as my previous Sabre style. If I don't mess up it will be clear coated!

I still like the neck heel, that is redy for a bolt-on, but I feel it would be better with a neck-through-like transition. That with soft pine is not an easy task.

I have to let it hang for some days, I have a bad cold and it is freezing in the workshop.

Hi. I started a body of what looks like spruce, though I was told it is pine sapwood. The darker half is darkened by light, should be uniform after sanding. The wood chips like mad, but the neck pocket sides resulted in ridiculously thin sharp edges. The neck is fat, 22mm @1st ftret, and very asymetrical, fatter at the thin strings, thinner where the thumb rests.

2mm aluminum side dots, 12th and 24th are 3mm Al tube with glow in the dark epoxy.

Waiting for a wraparound bridge.

Starting a new one. Laminated mahogany neck with 27" baritone scale, pear wood fretboard, asymetrical neck profile. The body might be pine, P90 pickups, fixed bridge.

This time drilling the tuner holes went just fine. I drilled 10mm holes from the back so that the pin of the brad point drillbit just touched the other suface, then guided by the pinhole drilled 8mm from the front. But I messed up one fret slot, cut it 1mm outside. Noticed it after recutting the slots to full depth, but the fix was fast.

I am again unsure of the headstock shape. This one looks too minimalistic.

Holy router sled, that looks awsome, large and sturdy. Mine is a complete mess.

Your progres on the body is beyond my hopes, good work,

The top looks nice, I would not want an f hole on that one, but whatever You like.

Sushkov got my point for 3+3 headstock layout with really straight strings, for knobs, fret ends, for making own awsome looking pickups. Could you show the insides of the pickup?

Ssaber

2 piece alder body jointed with a mahogany veneer, overall thickness 12mm at the edge, 47mm in the middle

3 piece anigre/sapeli neck, set in under the neck pickup, neck joint carved for full 24 fret access

polygonal neck profile, 12° headstock angle, zebrano fretboard, side dots filled with home-mixed fluorescent epoxy

Shellac finish

Ibanez ZR tremolo, Gotoh hardware, Duncan/Ibanez pickups (TB-6, SH-2), "screwless" switch mounting

This is my third complete guitar build, I am a hobby builder, did it for myself. It took 2 months to build, usually weekends. I like Ibanez guitars, this one is mostly an "S" body outline and contours with a few refinements (horns and headstock should come from similar curves). S models are traditionally 22 fret and bolt-on, I wanted it more modern. It is my first set neck. I am happy with the result, plays nicely, though the edgy neck profile is not as comfortable as I expected. Sounds awsome.

Build thread: http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48164-ibanez-rg-my-2nd-build/?do=findComment&comment=552358

Build gallery: http://kmensik.rajce.idnes.cz/DIY_SV#

I like that oiled mahogany a lot. My first S body was inspired by that, but with shellac finish. After some years it looks more matte as if it was only oiled. http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/47314-sabre-body-for-ibanez-s-470-neck/#comment-525141

If you are asking if I enjoy carving a Sabre body, then I say yes, a lot. It is my favourite. So elegant, comfortable, cool. Technicaly it is harder to shape than a strat or guitars with only one carved face. The body is harder to fasten to a workbench, once the first face is curved. Usually an S body has a flat plane in the middle, but the one of mine has no such flat spot, it is slightly curved even between the pickups.

Yes, with this particular box switch the tip just touches the wood in the neck position and is a hair above in the bridge position. With a Fender open switch the tip is slipped a little deeper on the lever, so it would hit the surface. The wall is 5mm thick, bushings are 3mm deep, so you have to drill 4mm including the drillbit tip, no room for error. Now I think I could have kept the wall thicker and make a ridge or dint for the outer lever positions, like the dint for the truss rod wrench. Like recessed knobs.

Today the remaining parts will arive, hopefully it will be playable in the weekend.

Man, your instruments are among the best I have seen around here. They have a recognizable face too. If building does not earn enough for a living or causes more pain then pleasure, it is OK to quit. But go back to it when you relax, build one or three guitars a year, whatever number is comfortable for you, for someone who really deserves it, not for every paying customer.