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demonx

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Posts posted by demonx

  1. I saw the lmi temps and wondered if they'd fit the stewmac box.

    I've never ordered from lmi. I once requested a shipping total from them and it's because of that I've stayed clear of them. It was for one five dollar length of plastic binding and they wanted forty bucks to post it!

    I've used your fretfind site to do the math, it seems that a 27" scale is simply a 25.5" with extra fret at the start and a 26.5" is a 25.5" with extra fret at the start. Im hoping it's really that simple!

    Before I cut the board I'll do some more checking into it but it looks right on fretfind.

    I wish I had a 26.5 and 27 in front of me to lay the other scales over the top of

  2. RAD:

    while checking out your fretfind link the thought occured to me that if I used the 34" in that method then I'd only get 21 frets and have to manually workout the last 3 or 4, BUT, then I applied the same logic using the 34" and checked the data on the site and I can use a 25.5" scale and add a fret at the beginning and still get extremely close to 27"

    Thanks for the site. It's very very helpful.

  3. I just used epoxy on my ebony board.It's a new thing for me.What I did was I got a box of those blue powder free rubber gloves and I rubbed the epoxy(24 hour T88) onto the board very sparingly...just rubbed it in with my fingers..Then I took an old bandana and rubbed off any leftover excess.It left a very thin,very nice looking coating which seemed to penetrate well without running all over into places I didn't want it.

    Interesting... I've got a maple board on a current project I've been wondering whether to clear or oil, maybe epoxy might be worth a shot

  4. Thanks, appreciate it - the different headstock is not everyone's taste but I like it.

    I've never seen it done like this before either, it's something I come up with one night while "day dreaming" at work.

    Im trying to be original, same as my scarf joints are a bit different to others.

    Not too many ways to be original in lutherie these days!

  5. I can assure you the save wasn't by choice!

    If the guitar was for someone other than myself I'd have pulled the board and fixed evrything to spec including installing an extended shim and new board, but since this ones just for me to have a 7 string player laying around I just worked with it.

    I also just realised I forgot to post a rear pic, so here it is:

    IMG_0906small.jpg

  6. Building guitars doesnt always go as planned!

    This was meant to be a rest day - I got bored and decided to radius and fret the 7 string. This one had a bit more board overhang than what I'd normally do, so I shoved a chisel underneath for a bit of support. Apparently it wasn't enough.

    The fix - I've cut it back to a 21 fret, chiseled and cleaned up the shim area and glued a new strip of binding to the end.

    389591_185973474817828_122774891137687_418915_701150251_n.jpg

    385989_186793428069166_122774891137687_421782_1255749737_n.jpg

    More pics to come when I get time to do more work!

  7. SUPERSTRAT - 7 string

    Mahogany body

    Maple Neckthru

    Ebony board with white binding

    Mother of Pearl large diamond inlays

    Reverse Sasafrass headstock

    Kahler Trem

    Grover Tuners

    Bridge p/up - Bareknuckle Painkiller

    Neck p/up - Custom order Bareknuckle single

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I really thought I was clever when I started this guitar as I had not seen anyone put sections of timber into a scarf joint. After being on this site a while heaps of people are doing it! Don't feel so special now!

    294356_163505500397959_122774891137687_343866_1796466921_n.jpg

    306756_166047403477102_122774891137687_352986_700840573_n.jpg

    313081_166047416810434_122774891137687_352987_142996947_n.jpg

    295808_183518941729948_122774891137687_410446_1393947690_n.jpg

    300580_179754422106400_122774891137687_397494_567278001_n.jpg

    320646_181016618646847_122774891137687_401104_1502078291_n.jpg

  8. I just use a cheap 2k automotive clear, spray a heap of coats, leave it for a week or more, sand it back and repeat until it's flat.

    Sometimes it'll seal on the first spray session, sometimes it takes a couple. It's harder than simply using a grain sealer, but it means I'm not mixing as many products and it's what I'm used to.

  9. i dont think it has any thing to do with the compound or sand paper looks like some contamination under the finish maybe silicon, oil or even solvents that got traped under a cured top coat. solvents do that when you put too much finish on too fast the lower layers didnt have time to relise there solvents.

    I agree. Some sort of contamination under the coat. What a pain in the butt.

  10. It looks even better in action,if that's possible

    Thanks mate - I was so stoked when I saw the pics.

    It's the first guitar I've made for anyone other than myself, plus it's one I really liked as it was to my tastes.

    I liked it so much I suggested I'd buy it back from him at full price if he wasn't happy - I didn't get to buy it back!

    I guess it's every builders dream to see them up on stage. Feels awesome.

  11. I know this is an old thread but rather than starting a new one just to post a pic I thought I'd just add to it.

    I've been given a few live pics of the "Groges" guitar I built a few months ago from various gigs, heres one taken last weekend at the Bendigoat Metal Festival, theres more on my facebook page.

    Makes me proud to see my work out there being used on stage!

    376788_185643221517520_122774891137687_417824_1658284832_n.jpg

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