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Everything posted by demonx

  1. A few images from the build video in the previous post:
  2. It’s been quite a while since I’ve posted here, busy running the guitar business and keeping its social media pages up to date, however I’m hoping this video will somewhat make up for my lack of attendance! This video is a detailed compilation of mobile phone footage showing the Graveyard II guitar evolve from timber blanks to a completed guitar, including the pickup making and final setup! I hope you enjoy! https://youtu.be/trSIZqlzkBA
  3. I have a spindle and variable speed controller that I can pre program in my CAM. No issues with Mach, just took a while to get the ratios right so that the spindle was spinning at the speed mach thinks it is, however that was done on the controller from memory and not mach. No issues with changing spindle speed my remote control though mach or anything that I can think of. It's been a few years now. I cannot remember what brand the controller is off the top of my head. My spindle can be run air or water. Air cooling is useless in the Aussie summer, we tried that first, even the wat
  4. @verhoevenc Same as the other thread, it's been a while since I logged in. I use mostly upcut endmills. Sizing and so forth will simply depend on what cuts you're making, for example I've got a upcut endmills ranging from 0.5mm to 12.7mm, if I'm hacking out large profiles it's the larger bits like the 12.7mm, if I'm cutting smaller edges it might be a 4mm or I might use a 6.35mm for the truss slot. But these sizes wont mean anything to you as you'll be using what suits your hardware and truss slots etc. One thing I will say that is important is use a brand
  5. @verhoevenc Sorry, I don't log in as much as I used to, so I haven't seen this till now. Ok... I do my own sanding these days, I got rid of the lackies a couple years ago and now it's just me. It's just so much easier to do everything myself and not have to worry about it being stuffed up by other people. Spending my time training other people or looking over my shoulder watching other people. So, I am now the sanding guy again. Unfortunately as you have found out, it takes time. Simple as that. You will also find some timbers sand so much faster than others. For example
  6. So do it with sandpaper and a radius block instead of a router.
  7. Sounds like a story I heard from a guy I know who hired a ex PRS inlay guy to do inlay for him, resume stated he had done inlays for years at PRS. Problem was when he was hired to work at the small handmade guitar workshop assisting with inlays, he didn't know how to, he had only ever taken parts from pile A and put them into parts from pile B. Funny you mention "Fast Guitars" as all these supposed "luthiers" popping up really irk me, starting Facebook pages and websites and selling to people who know no better, presenting themselves as real luthiers who are selling b
  8. Considering when I had an existing workshop for building electric guitars, yet had to spend another couple thousand to buy acoustic specific jigs etc, I don't think your budget is in the realm of reality. Benders, forms, binding jig all on their own are above you total budget without even combing the cost of them, add postage, then add sound hole cutters and other hand tools and templates and finishing tools, you haven't even purchased timber yet, which again is above your budget.
  9. Yep. Kits are certainly not a new concept, but they are a nice little cash cow for when things are quiet, I was "ghost building" neckthru blanks for a Melbourne guy for years, doing the joinery but leaving the body and heel square, carving the neck and doing fret installation and leaving a headstock paddle. He then routes and sands, cuts his shapes and finishes, puts him name on them, no one the wiser. It is however something I've stopped as my own brand grows I'm taking on more of my own orders these days and don't have time. In Perry's case it's another market to tap
  10. So they're charging $17 per decal? You guys will be very happy with what i plan on offering next year then! My current decal stash I expect to run out mid 2017 and I will be investing in the machinery I need to make my own. There will be a trial and error period, testing media to see how it reacts with 2k paints etc, but I plan to sell decals by the A4 sheet, not the individual decal. So it'll work out WAY cheaper than what you're paying. It'll work out cheaper than what I was paying before the place I was getting them done by turned to shit. Th
  11. Thanks guys, and Prostheta, even though the Rosette may seem simple, it was a real pain. The two I did before looked much more complex and were a lot easier!
  12. Latest build video - I hope you like it: https://youtu.be/nCFoT68IdJs
  13. It is probably a combination of what you said and probably more to the point something soft will "help" itself in where something hard wont have the same amount of give. For example it'd be a LOT easier to shove a 10mm crayon into a 10mm hole than a 10mm drill bit. (To use an exaggerated example)
  14. I had the large model of this exact router. When it was new, it was great. After a couple of years the thing was a piece of crap. It virtually shakes itself apart. Speed controller needs to be held by tape so it doesn't roll around. Base falls apart. Micro adjustment moves. Base jams up making it hard to drop and change cutting bits. The WORSE thing about the whole router, worse than above is the collet that is supplied with it is a cheap piece of junk and after not very long, once it's lost it's newness it stops holding the router bit. For example, one neck pocket I wa
  15. My 2c is this. I started looking at entry level machines. After much research and hearing other peoples opinions and stories I decided to skip the entry level and go straight to a machine that now owes me over fifty grand once you add up cutting tools and holders etc. Now that I've been operating a machine for a couple of years that cost this much and knowing it's limitations, I am scared to think how much regret I would have if I bought a el cheapo five grand entry level machine. At the end of the day, if you're wanting to do this as a hobby, don't look at CNC. Do
  16. I was messing around with something like that last year, didn't use holes for the glue though. It's a bit tricky, but if I can do it anyone can.
  17. I think you'll find that even though offsets are way too small once you start allowing for harder timbers and then spraying paint etc I did all my original mockups in pine and then found out I had to change a lot of things once going to hardwoods. Not only that, but your speeds, cut depths, overlaps and everything will be different in pine vs hardwood.
  18. You will find that the majority of Acoustic luthiers have Dehumidifiers in their workshop. After having a soundboard crack recently on an in progress acoustic build I am also in the mind that they are very important. I'm no expert on the matter, but I am slowly looking into them myself as I would like a semi industrial one for my own workshop. I'm looking at solar powered ones so that I can run it 24/7 and not have to worry about the power bill.
  19. Old_Picker What I do to avoid this, which only takes a few seconds is apply a dab of silicone in the slot where the threads will be (both ends), When you push the rod into the slot, the bead will ooze around the thread and you can wipe it with your finger to smooth it off and make sure the thread is completely covered. Once you do this, then the glue will not bind your threads when you laminate the board. Also, check your messages on the other forum we spoke on, I've had an outgoing one to you unread for a week.
  20. Latest video I put together, I hope you guys like it. https://youtu.be/n8EgK1IKWKE Here's the Fuscia one all put together: https://youtu.be/oDL34qlF264
  21. My sliding panel scribe/saw is not in that league. Currently it is disassembled for a forklift load it onto a truck for the workshop move. As far as luthiery, a panel saw is overkill - however it's still great to have in the workshop for other purposes. I used to find ways to incorporate it into guitar building simply because I had one, but it doesn't get used anymore.
  22. Yes and no, it's a a big job if you have to set up the saw every single time, change the blade etc etc, if this was the case I'd rather just use a stewmac mitre box and do it by hand. However if you have a dedicated saw, not a drop saw or a compound saw or any of that stuff as they flex too much, a radial arm saw is ideal, the old solid ones that were quality built and you can pick up cheap for a few hundred bucks. Get one of those and set it up permanently for for that job and then slotting is a quick and easy task.
  23. Something just as shiny but not quite as bright:
  24. Customer wanted bright metallic pink, after some discussion we agreed on some color samples and this fuscia variation was decided on. It's sprayed over a metallic silver and the fuscia candy is full of pearl.
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