Jorge Fernandez

...What about the Sealer&Filler from Birchwood Casey? ...

I'm going to give their sealer / filler a try on a walnut project I'm finishing up.

I've had great luck with just Tru Oil and wet sanding, but I'm anxious to see if their sealer / filler is easier or faster.

With any luck, I should be starting the finish in a few days.

Great! I'm very interested. I'm in the sanding stage. Then I'll do some test on scrap

wood but any information is welcome. I'll looking for your posts

I'll be finishing a mahogany body with Tru-Oil here within the next couple of weeks too.

I plan to just wet sand with Tru-Oil to fill the grain. I'll let you know how it goes.

Yeap! That would be great!. Please take some pics of the process to know

the way to go, thanks !

[My neck has a centre laminate of bubinga, sandwiched between two laminates of maple - the maple isn't going to be a problem, but the bubinga has a much more open grain, so: how do I seal it? Just keep applying more and more coats of TruOil? Will the bubinga grain eventually fill, or do I need some form of additional sealer?

I had a maple/walnut/maple sandwich on the neck that I posted earlier in the thread. The walnut filled just fine with only tru oil, given enough coats.

What about the Sealer&Filler from Birchwood Casey? I'm planning using

TruOil in my mahogany guitar project and I was thinking if this filler and

sealer is a good idea for this open grained wood instead of applying lot

of coats of TruOil? It's my first TruOil finish process an I'm not very

confident

From one of the sites listed on DiMarzio's website:

http://www.letusa.es/buscador.php?searchStr=evolution

Yes, they are the official dealers here in Spain, but their prices are so high!

DP158 100 euros !! when 1euro=$1.44 !! Then I'll try to find other suppliers

and take advantage from the global economy

WezV, this ebay store are no longer selling outside US.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dimarzio-DP159FBC-Evol...oQQcmdZViewItem

Another supplier ?

Thanks

Hi,

I'm trying to get some dimarzio evolution pickups (DP158F and DP159F)

online without success! All the online dealers are not selling outside

US (I'm from Spain, Europe). Do you know any online site where I can buy

it? I've read dimarzio forbid their delares to sell outside US, why?

Thanks

Hi,

I'm planning a neck-tru mahogany guitar. I have a mahogany block

and I want to avoid wasting wood and I have thought this distribution

for the laminated neck:

Is it a good idea? I was wondering if is it warping-proof? The wings (from the same

lumber block) can be glued with the fibers in opossite to compensate on the body

side but not the neck. The real pic is:

('alas' stands for wings, and 'mastil' is neck in spanish)

and the laminated neck:

Any comment is welcome, and ideas for some other distribution for a next project

because the mahogany block from the pic is the half of a larger chunck.

Thanks!

Thanks GregP and Maiden! I think I'll give it a try to the direct mounting method!

It looks like more or less standard direct-mounting of the pickups, Jorge. The special touch is the care he took to make the cavities exactly accomodate the pickups, including the polepiece screws and what seems to perhaps be a bar magnet under the single-coil. The rest is normal direct-mount pickup strategy... just get screws that aren't as long.

Thanks Greg!

Could you give me more info or some link about the direct-mount pickup strategy? How long the screws have to be?

yeah, it is a bit of a time warp. here are some inbetween pics:

the body, shaped and sanded

the body during spraying

the body with pickups installed

Hi,

I like the look of your pickups! Could you explain this method to avoid using pickup's rings that you

can see in the pic the body with pickups installed, please?

I would like to do something similar but I don't know if you need a body thickness to avoid screwing the

pickup screws to the guitar back side, etc.

Thanks!

Hi,

Anybody has a plan for an Ibanez jem headstock? Where can i find it? I have several

but with differences in the shape. Anybody can give me the maximum width and height

of a rectangle surrounding all the headstock? I know the nuth width is 43mm.

Thanks

(Sorry!, I've moved it to the Tech Area. Admin, could you delete it?)

Hi,

Anybody has a plan for an Ibanez jem headstock? Where can i find it? I have several

but with differences in the shape. Anybody can give me the maximum width and height

of a rectangle surrounding all the headstock? I know the nuth width is 43mm.

Thanks

Hi,

I'm going to use the "Smith All Wood Epoxy" from LMII to glue an ebony fingerboard

with a mahogany neck.

In the "instructions for use" you can read:

"Apply to both surfaces to be glued. On dense woods which will absorb essentially

none of the glue, assembly maybe done immediately. On softer woods or beveled

lap joints where end grain is being glued, there may be considerable absorption

into the wood. It maybe necessary to let the separate pieces sit, wetted, for much

as an hour or more to ensure that one does not have a glue-starved joint after

assembly and cure."

Then my questions are, mahogany is considered dense or soft? I think it's soft,

then I've to leave some time the glue applied onto the mahogany, then apply it

onto the ebony and immediately clamp the pieces together. Isn't it? How did you

do it?

Any advice is welcome before I make a mistake

Thanks!

If you're going with a humbucker-sized thing, you can rout a ledge underneath the edge of the pickup rout in the top of the instrument...tricky, and you need the right bearing-guided router bit, but it's possible.

Ohh, thanks ryanb! Now I've understand the Erikbojerik idea!! I think I'll try it!

Well, I think that I have no explain my question very well.

I want to know if there is a way to install the pickups without

mounting rings. In my last project I did this set up:

I could do it because it was a top glued onto the body:

The body:

and the backside of the top:

For this project I'm doing a neck-thru guitar with a one-piece body and the previous setup is

not possible. I don't like to route in the backside of the body and I was wondering if there is

some way to avoid the mounting rings, routing the pickup ears and the rest of the cavity

to put the screws and springs the more hidden as possible.

Any idea is welcome

Hi,

I would like to know how the people desing the pickup cavities to

avoid using mounting rings. I don't like it, but I know it's a good

choice to have the pickup screws accesible. My project is a neck-tru

guitar with two wings but no top. The rear route pickups is not an

option. Are there some solutions? Any link is welcome.

Thanks!

Thanks a lot Rich!!

Rob, they're not glued on the top! The pickup's cavity is oversized to allow insert and remove it.

The next pic will show you this:

http://personales.ya.com/jorgefm/Guitar%20...ges/pupcav1.jpg

http://personales.ya.com/jorgefm/Guitar%20...es/p1000801.jpg

Regards,

Jorge

Hey I recognise that pic

Very cool you used my method... it looks very slick!!

Here is the guitar I made 10 years ago

Hi Alex! You're right

I saw your post and I thought that I liked that look! The cad pics are yours.

I think I sent your some PM with some questions...

Thanks!

Jorge

Thanks for the replies!

Ian_ did you seal and fill the wood before applying the tru-oil?

Maybe, this way you get a more uniform finish. For what I've

understand you sanded it all to begin again and then did you realized

that you get the uniform finish you were looking for? Do you

have any pic ??

Thanks

Hi,

For my fisrt oil finishing project I will go with TruOil after reading a lot

of topics in this forum. But I have some questions.

How many TruOil is usually needed to finish a guitar? I'm going to buy

some 8oz bottles and I would like to know how many bottles may I buy.

It's a mahogany guitar and maybe I'll use the BIRCHWOOD CASEY sealer

and filler too if I don't like to see the pores. With one 3oz bottle wiil be ok

or more is needed?

Thanks!

A thin layer of glue or epoxy should absorb into the wood and hold the CF rod in place at the same time. Wipe/scrape off the excess, make sure surface is still flat after it dries, then put the fretboard on.

You don't want the CF rods sitting in a channel with no adhesive; it is asking for rattle.

Well, I thought that the epoxy used later to glue the fretboard will glue too the CFs to their surrounding wood

and to the fretboard, all in one step, to avoid scrapping the excess of epoxy used to glue the CF before glueing

the fretboard.

Thanks

Pretty much what I do, yeah; clamping the rods is a pain with the neck carved, ergo I glue them in before pre-carving the neck. Gluing on the fingerboard (to a pre-carve) neck is easy enough if you leave the center area slightly flat (clamps are centered, force distributed by clamping cauls). I either epoxy or polyurethane glue the rods in, and epoxy the fingerboard on. Right now I'm using a 30-minute hobby epoxy which sands nicely, getting some boat building stuff soon which is better/as good and comes with handy pump dispensers.

And yes, slots cut before any other work is done if you've got a squared up blank. Makes things a little easier.

Sorry for repeating (no english speaking), but, do you glue on the carbon fibers and later, with

the CF dry, you glue the fingerboard over it?

I'm asking because I've routed the carbon fibers channels and they are very adjusted to the

CF size and I don't know if glueing it will add something. I thought that I only will need to put

the CF and the truss rod on place and glue the fingerboard over it.

Thanks

Hi John, Can I ask for absolute values for your installation notes?

(see http://www.wammiworld.com/Installation_guide.html)

I'm planning a 25.5" scale length guitar. The bridge is a kahler 7330 fixed bridge.

I've adjusted the saddles height to be 10:00 o'clock, then I have 16mm from body

top to the roller channel. The maximmum height I can get is 18mm before the screw

fall below the saddle. When you speak about 10:30 oclock what's the height from

body top to roller?

Another mesure I'm interested is from the 10A point.

"10A) Slightly loosen the phillips on top of the middle of each saddle. Now pull out each saddle

fork in and out noting the minimum and maximum extension of the fork. Once you have

determined that, slide all the forks 2/3rds of the way equally and secure them by lightly

retightening the Phillips screws (right)"

Can you give some value? To the end of the metal piece with the phillip screw to the center

of the roller I've 14mm.

I'm going to install the bridge myself an I would like to know the maximum info that

I can get!. What about the neck angle? What's your experience?

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm designing the neck for my next project. I'm going to use a hot rod (stewmac #0982) with two carbon fiber (stewmac #4403) following the typical distribution because I want a thin neck like the ibanez jem neck.

I would like to know a good distribution of the three items if the neck is 43mm on the nut and 57mm at the fretboard end. Some advise for the distance from the center of the neck or truss rod to the carbon fiber? Do you align the beginning of the carbon fibers with the nut, or some space behind it, maybe at fret 3?

Thanks,

Jorge

Sorry, I reply myself: use the search button!

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=32218

Hi,

I'm designing the neck for my next project. I'm going to use a hot rod (stewmac #0982) with two carbon fiber (stewmac #4403) following the typical distribution because I want a thin neck like the ibanez jem neck.

I would like to know a good distribution of the three items if the neck is 43mm on the nut and 57mm at the fretboard end. Some advise for the distance from the center of the neck or truss rod to the carbon fiber? Do you align the beginning of the carbon fibers with the nut, or some space behind it, maybe at fret 3?

Thanks,

Jorge

A two laminated mahogany neck could be considered as a multilaminated neck ?

I'm planning building a thin neck with two mahogany strips, a LMII double action

rod and CF reinforcements. The headstock will be 13 degrees.

Any link to know how the strips has to be distributed in a multilaminated neck

to maximize the strenght and stability?

Thanks!

Wizard necks really aren't that thin, at least they're not at the thresh hold of thin. I would use carbon fiber rods and a two way truss rod. Either keep your fretboard thin (probably 3/16" max) or route a slot in the bottom of a thicker fretboard to allow the trussrod to sit inside the fretboard a bit.

Hi,

Russ, I'm interested routing a slot in the fingerboard to reduce the thickness of the neck. How thick has to

be the fingerboard ? and the deep of the channel? what do you recommend. Is there any link to some

neck built this way?

Thanks!