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SwedishLuthier

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Posts posted by SwedishLuthier

  1. NorthStar 8-string headless

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted

    Body left to dry

    IMG_0939_zps092531c5.jpg

    while I turn my attention to the top. First clean it up a bit on the planer

    IMG_0931_zps50319a6e.jpg

    The burl makes the birch extremely hard. So hard, in fact, that the band saw didn't had enough power to complete the job. So I had to hand saw it, quite a bit of work...

    IMG_0933_zpsa79bb9f2.jpg

    After even more cleaning up with the Wagner Safe-T and the planer:

    IMG_0953_zps1e929f99.jpg

  2. NorthStar 8-string headless

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted

    OK, I'm not one of the best when it comes to build threads, but as I already does this in a lokal guitar forum for the customer I might at well share with you guys too.

    This is a build based on my NorthStar body. However it is going to be a headless guitar with compound scale (fanned frets) and 8-Stings. Oh, and compound radius too. Here's a drawing

    Skaumlrmavbild2014-07-06kl151228_zpse6af

    Body wood, Brazilian cedar

    Body top, Masur Birch, a quite common birch burl in Finland and Sweden

    Neck is going to be multi laminated, with a lot of things going on, but mainly maple with mahogany stringer

    The customer got to choose from one of these striped mahogany fretboards

    IMG_0927_zpsecea38c4.jpg

    Body being glued up

    IMG_0936_zpse2200581.jpg

    IMG_0937_zps23a4016a.jpg

    EDIT:Forgot, hardware from fellow Swede Ola Strandberg and it will also have an EndurNeck profile, that Ola is kind enough to let me license for this build. Or anyone that just pay his quite reasonable fee.

  4. Rickenschecter Fretless J

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted

    Anybody else experiment with "metal flake"? So it is kind of textured and the glitter stands up in places, I haven't burned though during the wetsanding, but I've hit some of the glitter and instead of green, I'm getting some silver shining through. I'm not really seeing any green in my sand paper or water or wash cloth.

    Should I have put on more than 3ish layers of clear coat?

    Yeah. Most of the metal flakes out there are just tiny colored aluminium (Scientifically correct spelling!) flakes. So if your flakes start turning silver you have ended through the color coat of the flakes. And it doesn't take much and through for ti to be visible. You need to get the finish coats on really heavy, I sugest laying the instrument flat (or suspending it like you do) and getting extra thick coats on, making sure that you cover the sides too, let it sit extra long, flip it and get extra thick layers on the other side, once again shooting a "normal" layer on the sides. This way you will get extra thick lacers on the top and back for each spraying session and double layers on the sides for every "complete" coating. The surface need to feel more or less completely level before you shoot at least one or two final coats. then it might be OK to level sand. Metal flakes takes a bit of extra care to succeed with.

    One way to fix the problem with the flakes turning silver is to shoot a green tinted layer and a few more top cots. That will tone down the silver effect.

  6. New here :) First Project

    in The Design Bar

    Posted

    Ola Strandberg, a fellow Swede and the master mind behind "building the ergonomic guitar" and Strandberg Guitars, has the integrated single string tuner/bridge he designed and now manufactures up for sale here:

    http://guitarworks.thestrandbergs.com/products/purchase-page/

    As I'm about to build a custom order headless 8-string based on Ola's hardware I have already completed CAD plans for those and I'm about to post those too, any day now... These tuners/bridges take standard strings. However the maximum string gauge is .080 and I'm not sure that the bigger end ball of bass strings will fit. However it is possible to get custom ordered bass strings with guitar ball ends and tapered end/beginnings that might work. In the end; to much effort if you ask me.

  7. How do you apply Tru-Oil?

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    Hi There take look at this website,tried it myself with great results on solid bodies.Web site is " well oiled with adamson" All the best

    Thanks for posting. Here is a direct link

    EDIT: Had a quick look at this (still not finished the complete essay). It looks really good. If you did the writing (= no copyright infringements) this would make an excellent tutorial to re-post here on the forum. If you have some photos it would be even better...

    EDIT2: After reading through it all I guess that you are not "Adamson" and we will have to do with a link. Maybe I'll try this exact working scheme on a Alto Acoustic being completed any time now and snap a few pics to show this method a bit more graphical...

  9. Gibson 490R vs 57 Classic Humbucker

    in Electronics Chat

    Posted

    490R, Alnico2 magnet 42AWG (probably Poly) wire, 7.2 to 7.8 Kohms 50 mm pole spread

    57 Classic, Alnico2 magnet 1.94" pole spread (49.3mm), 7.4 - 8.5 kOhms, unknown wire type but probably 42AWG with thicker insulation compared to the 490R.

    So the 57 will be slightly hotter, with more mid and probably (because the wire insulation) a slightly "drier" sound. This is only based on the specs and no A/B comparison.

  12. Acoustic/electric controls

    in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat

    Posted

    That, of cause, depends on what type of system we are talking about and what you want to do with the "scars" from the old system. I'm assuming the current controls are mounted at the sides of the body and that it is ok for you to either plug the current holed with something that is visible or just leave the controls in place. If not you also need to adress the holes in some way or another. You can even make the holes a feature and call them sound ports...

    Anyway, if you are looking at a system that is mounted like this

    546_medium.jpg

    it takes some skills to do it. You need to assure that you doesn't weaken the structure too much (at least don't cut through too many side braces). The preamp need to at least reasonable match the curvature of the sides to fit nicely. And you need to be able to cut a few straight lines in the side. If you feel comfortable doing this it shouldn't be impossible to do it yourself

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