Opencan

you need to connect the pickups to the 3 way selector... and i can't see how the splitting works

it might be just me, but i've always though that Gibsons Les Paul warm tone and overall sound characters comes from its huge body mass. i wonder how a flat 1" Les Paul will sound like. on the other hand, i know that my Schecter C-1 have great warmth as well, and its neck and body are from mahogany, and its not as half as heavy as a LP. I think that if you'll just get a good, dense mahogany blank for the body, and get that neck you mentioned first, from maple, it would be full of sustain, not too thick (but yet pretty heavy) and the maple neck would add a bit of attack to your sound. Just for example, i've tried one guitar from one piece mahogany, and 2 original Seymour Duncan pups, washburns i think (really not sure) that sounds like crap. i bet those pickups and overall specifications would sound great on a good piece of mahogany. And like you've said, just try, you can prove us all wrong!

i've heard something about heating the bridge untill it becomes white, then throwing it to old motor oil and after 30-50 minutes it will come out black. never tried it thogh. (on screen keyboards are hell)

Oh... So what CAN i do with a DPDT? i just want my squier to be more vriable :\ By the way, most of the links in the wiring tutorial in tutorials section, doesn't work.

bump... and anyone here have a scematic for how to do a S-1 Switching? (realized its just one push pull switch, which i'll replace with a DPDT)

getting a "living" 9DC volt current into a speaker will distroy it. any direct current will. why don't you hook that circuit of yours to a guitar amp directly? the only thing that you'll be able to change by adding \ removing random components is the treble, mid and bass. unless you create an in-board effect, such as a simple drive \ distortion, but that wouldn't be so easy

but soldering it is not that easy as it sounds, because you need to solder a very fine wire and yet not to remove too much isolation, its pretty much all in vain. and if you put to much solder, it will destroy the shape of the winding and if its not completely round, it will break the other wires, and i bet there are way more things that might happen. why get to this point anyway?

like i said, just try to rip it once by hand and once by the resistence of whatever your winding with (drill, hand drill, hand, a3 HP air condition motor etc.) the costs are none, and you should get the felling of what you shouldn't come near to. but remember, putting the winds too loose, and you'll suffer from magnetic disturbes. just for the protocol, i never tried (yet) to wind my own pickups, but i read a LOT of stuff, mainly because i'm dirt poor at the momnet and really don't want to waste money on something that in the end go for nothing. if yet you feel like talking, my ICQ is 174440988 and my e-mail \ messanger is ron_amram@hotmail.com i'de like to hear how your doing, beause frankly, your in the same position as i am

I just remember he mentioned that he didn't passes the 4 winds a second in his winds counter making from a calculator tutorial you just should be gental i guess.

try on scrap and figure it out yourself. with good machine and a good clean work, you can wind a pickup in less than 10 minutes. big producers do so. but just get a scrap of something you can wind on and remove it later, than just see how fast you can go until it breaks. I've read at john fishers site that he didn't passed the 4-5 winds a second. although, he didn't had any good gear in hand.

Isn't there a way to use the original switch and add 1 or 2 on on switches so it will do the trick? (or something similar) EDIT if i'll get a DPDT switch or two, can i make any of this modifications? here they are way less than 4USD... (less than a USD for a matter of fact)

I've been thinking about it, and i don't really want to drill all these holes, and yet stay with my 5 way switch hole for cosmetic issues. I though maybe there is a way to do it this way: Neck - Neck parallel to Middle - Neck parallel to Bridge - Middle Parallel to Bridge - Bridge and add a On\On switch to add the Middle pickup in series while shutting the Middle option from the 5way switch. Can this thing work? Does anyone have a schematic for that kind of project? Or is there any smarter idea that adds a Serries \ Parallel switch? I've seen a tutorial that makes the switch work as the following: 1. Neck 2. Neck + Bridge in Parallel 3. Neck + Bridge in Series 4. Neck + Bridge in Series and Out of Phase 5. Bridge and for the middle pickup, he've used one of the tone pots and made it to control the middle volume. Though he a used an alteranative switch, which i can't get my hands on, but does anyone know how can i do that with just the original switch? or something similar? (by the way, i couldn't understand much of that tutorial because it was very messie X_X)

I'll use this thead to ask my own question in that manner. I'm looking for a router that is the cheapest available, but yet, that he would work for 2-3 guitars. what should i look for, what bits should i get if i want to do it "freestyle"? and whats eproximently their prices? From what i've gathered here, i should get a 1.5HP+ router, plunge router, rubber handles. and thats about it. I got for protection wear a anti-gas mask (covers the face while filtering the dust, and for the noise) i'll use some apron, and i'll try to get a hold of some ear protection.

Well, I think i'll handle it, but what the "capasitor"s value for a strat?

can't i put a cap in parallel of the series modes to decrease the volume, yet cleaning the signal? anyway, can someone give me a schematic for that kind of thing?

I just thought of playing with my guitar a bit, and change the features a bit. Its a bad stratocaster replica for thoes who doesn't know.. I hate any of the single pickup sound, they are horrible, and somehow, in parallel they sound.. reasonable. the guitar doesn't worth upgrading of pickups, but i would like to do the switch work as follow: 1. Series middle and bridge pickups 2. Parallel middle and bridge pickups 3. All 3 pickups in series 4. Parallel middle and neck pickups 5. Series middle and neck pickups And i don't want the volume of the output will change while i change positions, because the 3rd position should give way more output than the 2nd, so i need some sort of circuit that will decrease the output, prefferably clean it as well. Can anyone get me a schematic for that kind of thing?

i have a 2 years old very cheap classical guitar by Montana, CGsomething, and i eccidently put it near the window on a very sunny day (50C outside) and it got a bend upward on the neck, where the neck meets the body (10-11 frets) is there a way to somehow bend it back? is there a way doing that without having to pull the frets out? I've heard of a heat treatment, and i've heard its price around here (100USD), so i rather buy a new one in that sum... but i really like my guitar, and i'd like to try doing it on my own, so any ideas?

take a resistance metter, turn them all the way on, and check. easiest way i know. (and a simple multi metter costs about 10USD and is pretty usefull for everything)

Greg, he sure is but he's a nice guy overall.. Jester, he might be doing that, but how yet does he have a normal 5 way switch? ansil, i heard this theory before. realized that its what they want you to think. they just WANT YOU TO THING they will conquer the world in the near future, and by that obtain piorior conditions and care. (while they are just starting to find out the final solution for all humankind)

his not really my friend, he is some guitar fixer that lives around here. and i set with him for about an hour while fixing my guitar, and i tried to figure what exacly he does. the things mentioned are things that can do the same trick, but from what i've got out of him, it isn't. and it really might be a fake S1 system or something like that, but i'm pretty sure its not the original one. I just thought maybe its a bit common trick that lays around and someone does it also. he keeps his twick as a secret as well and doesn't tell much about it, for the reason he is the only one is Israel that does it, and get pretty much of a good money for it. Oh, and i wouldn't buy it just to check, thats dumb. i'll check with someone which he did it to his guitar (if i'll catch one, which shouldn't be too hard)

it was a push pull switch... and i doubt thats the deal, beacause he did it to a guitar that didn't had this option. he did it to other guitars as well, not just Fenders. Anyway, that seems like a nice system

nope, thats nothing like what he did... it was very weird. 1. He did it with a FENDER STRAT USA SINGLES, and put no extra pickups. the on\off switch for making the humbuckers was at the volume \ tone knob, by raising it up. yet, it had the 5 normal positions. i guess i should spend this 800USD and buy one of his guitars to see for myself...

i got nothing againt the jewish radio, i like it, but the quility is horrible... anyhow, its out of the box. i've put it on a wiring board for soldering. in the box it was on a pre-wired board, and worked perfectly well. i think i got something burnt \ shortening. any ideas anyone?

now when i turn the gain all the way on, and play with the level pot, i do pick some radio signals X_x got some jewish songs channel a few minutes ago. now, THATS odd

no hidden pickups, i got from him that its some kind of wiring of the pickup. it sounds fatter and haven't really checked the hum. Greg, its just one coil, he did it to other people that had a Fender strat standard.