Myrk-

Basically the neck tone pot is crackling when its used- I'm pretty sure it needs to be replaced (or dipped in electronic cleaner fluid stuff). Anyways, 500k pot sound a good supplement for the current 300k?- I've heard it makes the sound less muddy and weak. On that note though, how do I pry out the current pots from thier metal housing plate inside the cavity? Do they need unlatching and desoldering for each one? Finally, anyone know if the 1983 model (first studio model which was released in electric blue colour) is made of mahogany or alder (or something else?)

Cheers, I'll look into the pots, probably change them to a 500k on neck and 1meg on bridge - a pedal isn't what I'm looking for as its only this guitar that has problems.

Ok I have a Warlock Bronze series with default BC Rich pickups- I don't wanna change the pickup if I don't have to, but is there any way to make the guitar sound have more treble? Its really bassy and hard to get a good solo out of it. I'm gunna try and pack out the neck joint some more to give it better sustain/sound too. This guitar is just one I'm gunna sell off in time- gunna refinish it in white first then scallop the frets, then eBay ahoy to pay for my insane appetite for 1st gen synth guitars!

Then its noisy, and as such, useless! I think I could possibly do it with a current Roland mesh head with metal woven between and fixed. Either that or use fibreglass sheeting without the resin- plenty of V-drummers have actually made heads this way and they seem to last fine. I'd need to use a material that wouldn't degrade like guitar strings too- something that sweat doesn't destroy. As for drum heads, mesh drum heads last longer than normal heads (probably because the strike surface is a mesh and as such only 50% of a normal surface), its wierd to explain- go to your local guitar/drum shop and try out a V-drum kit with mesh heads, very nice- I have a TD-10 kit personally. Its my baby along with my Roland G-707 guitar.

Fine. Its in the creation of a new electronic drum (don't hiss and spit, I learnt drums because there aren't enough drummers around UK)... Basically I'm replacing the strings with a mesh, which becomes the drum head. The pickup goes below the mesh, and acts as a piezo, like roland V drums. Another way would be to thread pieces of metal through a normal drum mesh head, so as not to diffuse the magnetic field as psw implied. I find the best way of testing is good old practical testing. My idea is to eliminate the need for midi- I have a few old pickups lying around and plenty of spare parts to create such a device, except the mesh, which I would need to manufacture into a skin with hoop. I'll then plug the drum into my Line6 spider amp, and tweak it till it sounds somewhat right. If it works it could be the era of a new electronic drum, if not, meh, I'll keep it as a memento. Thats the idea anyway! If I see it pop up soon I'll know you stole it, but I'm sure it won't be that great anyway, but I'm curious.

Ok I can't really say what its for, its a very, very cunning idea of mine. So I'll skip to the electronical side for a question or 2. If I was to construct a fabric of mesh, would the mesh need to be nickel for it to cause the pickup to make a sound, or could it be any metal... or any material full stop? Secondly, on a humbucker or pickup, there are usually 6 dots that emerge under the strings. One for each string. Is this because each dot picks up just the string above, or is it merely there to amplify the strings vibration without trying to pick up the vibrations of nearbye strings. I suppose another question of the same format would be- whats the point in those metal extruding dots on a humbucker? I'll show you all what I'm up to when its done!

They do, but you don't see them very often. I don't think they are made specifically for guitar only either.

I have a GR-700 synth module, if you were in the UK I'd sell that to you, I'd rather have the lesser GR-300, which is meant to have better tracking. I'm a tad too quick for my GR-700.

Well some of you might have noticed from the electronics forum that I picked up a G-707 guitar synth the other day. Just thought I'd enlighten you all as to its quirky form... The second neck thing above is made of some wierd plastic material, and is bolted onto the headstock, and the tuners are bolted through that and the headstock (the plastic second neck kind of wraps over the headstock top). Anyway, it seems to connect to the body through some rubber seal and more bolts. At first I thought it was some midi reason (they say about it on some old websites), but I've found it makes the tone of the guitar unbelievable! With this wierd neck, you can hold a note almost indefinitely! The sustain is amazing, and the guitar sounds like a Gibson Les Paul, but yet its a bolt on with alder body. Just thought I'd let you guys know so you crazy builders could think of some way to maybe incorporate the second support neck into the first to make a better neck. This is all through a normal amp btw, not through the synth module. I would highly recommend any guitar builders try out this guitar, its very unusual but has an amazing tone.

Long time no see! Which is better out of the GR-300 and the GR-700? I know the tracking is far superior on the GR-300, but people say that its a toy in comparison to the GR-700. However I see constant praise of the GR-300. Also which is worth more? I don't need to know much about the rest, I own a GR-700 and a G-707, but I'm considering selling the GR-700 for a GR-300 as I'm more of a soloist. Is this a good choice, or am I making a seriously bad move?

Theres nothing wrong with the fret itself, I checked, and I don't see why when I change the strings the fret would be worn down... I've tried restringing it, doesn't help either.

I think I'll get a techy to look at it I was hoping for a nice quick and easy fix, some sort of bolt to screw and restring it... Nevermind. Cheers for you guys' help though.

Unscrew the neck a bit? Hmmmm....

This doesn't help, and shouldn't be the solution. I'm not sure why the action is lower on 1 string, in particular around 1 fret- raising the action more would make the action too high on the higher frets, so I'm assuming some form of truss rod adjustment is required, but I really don't wanna break my neck. Anyone able to confirm this assumption?

I need to remove the string to move those don't I? Damn nabbit Floyd rose bridges are a real bitch to fix and fiddle with.

Well I don't think BC Rich used licensed floyds till the 2001 model, so no- your screwed with what its got most likely. As I said, I'd wait till you get it. Also as far as I know the 90's models of BC Rich used a silver coloured trem, but that could have been the late 90's models... My suggestion for doing it yourself is due to colour differences- if you do it you can get the colour right, if you buy it theres a chance it could be different in colour.

Is it the 1980's model or the 2003-5 model? If the later, then its a licensed floyd rose and as such is identical to a normal floyd rose- why you'd want to change it I'm not sure, as it is identical to a real floyd rose in every way apart from it having "Licensed under floyd rose" written on it. I personally have a BC Rich Warlock platinum pro, and the trem is really good. However, from my knowledge, it looks like a 1980's model (due to the positioning of the switches and pots, and the neck not having the 24th fret dots) which means it has a kahler bridge. This does pose problems for changing it to a floyd rose as the pegs are only slightly off. The peg holes will need to be plugged and redrilled aprox 1/2cm ish (I remember an old project guitar I was building and gave up on because of this). Tbh I'd wait until you get the guitar to see if the bridge is good enough as it is. As for the pink additions, I think you'll find it easier, cheaper, and better to do it all yourself by spraying them or something. Then use a laquer spray to seal the paint from scratches. You'll also be able to spray the floyd rose (by taking it apart and rebuilding it, but spraying it may make it not fit back together) and also the tuners (on the tuning pegs definitely). Personally, if you really want to pimp your guitar then go for a nice custom graphic on the body, and try looking into neck mods such as scalloping or paint jobs etc.

I get a buzzing sound on the 2nd fret of my B string, it basically vibrates on the 3rd fret when I fret the 2nd. I've got a BC Rich platinum pro with licensed floyd rose, and I'm not sure how to raise and lower individual strings- doesn't even say in the floyd rose manuals! Any ideas what to do? The other strings are all fine.

Cheers guys, it'll help me in my revenge quest against a guitar shop down the road

How do you identify what the pot is? I.e. 250k or 1000k or 25k? The pots in my guitar don't have any writing on them and are meant to be 25k, but I'm sure they aren't.

Actually Kettles cost a **** load in the US compared to the UK (last I remember)... Wierd eh?

I'll make sure not to use EMG's on my project guitar when I get round to it then! What voltage etc should the capacitor be? I've found .1uF ones, but I'm not sure on the voltage.

Yer battery is fine. So you suggest a 25k pot? What about the tone, and its little resistor thingy?

Didn't realise you could build a guitar from 1 piece of wood (neck and body), I always assumed neck thru etc was how they did it. This gives me ideas

Nah, I'd rather do it, I took it back once and they "fixed it", but I just feel I'd rather do it now. How long are electrical workings guarantees for in general? I took it in ages ago, about 6 months or so. What do different pots do anyway? What would installing a 1meg pot do, as opposed to a 25k?