komodo

Alright, I've been considering building my own guitar for a long time and, I'm gonna do it. Doesn't look to hard. But, I do have plenty of questions that I coudn't find complete answers to throughout the forum. Maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough. Oh well.

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It's not that hard to build one. It isn't easy to do one great. It takes time and patience and a large ammount of skill, experience and a well honed sense of design.

First, I plan on building the body completely out of cocobolo wood. I read that dence woods give a thicker, richer tone. I'm young and I've got a good back so I think I can support a good couple of pounds for a while. I also think that with an emerald green stain it'll look beautiful. What are your opinions on using cocobolo wood?

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Dense woods can transfer string energy better and increase sustain . . .but they can also be oily and damp energy transfer. All woods are different. As to a solid coco guitar, I personally wouldn't recommend it but that doesn't mean it can't be done or you shouldn't do it. If you haven't gotten your hands on a piece of cocobolo yet, you should. Even a small piece will illustrate how incredibly dense and HEAVY it is. This doesn't yet address the issues of gluing and finishing cocobolo which can be problematic.

RE: bridges . . .actually the first step. In so much as having it and designing the guitar with it in central mind.

RE: books . . .Melvyn Hiscocks and Martin Kochs books are both good and both should be read for a decent foundation on the process.

RE:searching here . . . most of what you asked is in here in the forums and would be found wityh a very modest search. Many will help you with beginner questions, but you will be better served by putting more effort in seeking basic info yourself. It's readily available and the searching skills will help you later when you REALLY have some tough questions.

Good Luck!

KOMODO

Howdy,

I am looking for some nice pieces of birdseye black poplar, also called Mappa Burl. I don't know of a source in the US other than for paper thin veneers, please pass it along if you know of one that can supply larger billets. I am loooking for billets or pieces thick enough to make tops or carved tops (18-20"L x 7"w x 3/8 - 2" thick.

There are places in the Mediterranian that will ship larger ammounts if anyone is interested in pooling together and getting a larger order.

Thanks!

KOMODO

I can make them whatever size you like for say $45 plus shipping. They would be two peice though. The Mahogany is one peice and I'm asking $60 plus shipping for it. It really is a beautifil peice of wood. The shipping would depend on your location. You can go on to UPS.com and do a shipping calculator. My location is Zip code 46236. Body blanks weigh at most 10 pounds would be my guess.

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I may be interested in some QS walnut blanks . . .can you post pics? What thickness?

KOMODO

OK, here is the grinder (Makita, but any grinder will work) and the attachment as promised. I don't know the name of the attachment, but I got it at Home Depot.

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I gotta thank you Drak. After looking at this thread last week, I went to Lowes on Saturday and bought a grinder and flap sander. Too cool for the rough carve.

KOMODO

PS-from now on whenever I drop coin on new tools and get blasted from my wife, I'm gonna say Drak made me do it.

Some quick non-hypothetical, non wannabe principals:

chamber=good

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Thanks much Frank.

This forum has been wonderful for it's cross section of knowledge. Even if there are no right and wrong answers, one can learn much from hearing from several peoples opinions.

I must also add that I have learned much from reading Siminofs book The Luthiers Handbook. While it may not be a definitive text, it does cover much of the science and backstory of guitar acoustics (esp. acoustic guitars). Because the tone chambers make the solid body sort of a neo hybrid, it's interesting to look at straight acoustics, solid body and everything in between and then form your own opinion.

KOMODO

"And for Komodo, I believe that if anyone acts like they can really explain what different chambering actually does tone-wise, I think they're just spouting garbage. I do it and I like it, but I couldn't forcast the tonal differences and plot it out beforehand..."Hmmm, if I remove another 1/2" all around, I'll drop the resonant tone down to d flat..."

Drak-I guess this was part of what I was poking at. I mean this has to be a decent ammount of extra work. I understand the weight thing, but doing it for tonal change/influence . . .i guess I am wondering what that extra tonal difference is if it is at all describable (sp?). Also, I was wondering how you decide how much to rout out and where . . .obviously you are following contour and shape to a degree, but as far as multiple chambers etc . . . curious as to how anyone decides what to rout . . .

once again, great thread and much thanks to all.

KOMODO

Thanks a bunch!

It's nice to see what you usually don't see . . . .

Can you guys add your thoughts about how you choose what to chamber and what not to? (ie. size and position of chambers) I know there are varying opinions on the matter.

Drak - I wonder your thoughts on carving down the section inbetween the pickups . . it would create a channel from one chamber to another, but would also reduce the ammount of solid material from bridge to nut. I guess pup cavities do the same though.

Also, wondering everyones thought's on chambered with no F-hole vs chambered with F-hole. An acoustic works like a big pump pushing air . . does a chambered with Fhole do that too? What is the purpose of having the hole or not?

Any and all help/opinions from the more experienced builders is much apprecited.

KOMODO

Howdy,

Wondering if anyone has experience with these guns? Pros Cons?

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Astr...20AP4020-12.htm

Thanks!

KOMODO

NICE!

. . and you will build these and sell them for how much?

Thanks!

KOMODO

Do hard maples and big leaf dye similarly?

Anything to watch out for when dying flamed hard maple?

KOMODO

Matt,

I used the Plastikote on a cheap Les Paul copy many moons ago and it is very soft till you get a clear coat. It was VERY rough on the arms, but that was a LP style.

The Hammerite (i think thats the name) is really cool, and should be stable once you get a clear coat over that . . .looks like all the old 50's furniture. Maybe not so hardcore . . . industrial though.

Why not some kind of actuall rusted metal? Get something from the junkyard and then clear over that. I guess you would want to stabilize the rusting if that's possible .. .dunno . . .

Just a thought.

KOMODO

Drak's method is actually for "jointing", not planing.  For the most part, edges are jointed and surfaces are planed.

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RIGHT.

Thus my confusion . . i saw the jointing/sanding method.

Another way that some people don't think about (this is a jointing method) . . .

If you take two halves of a bookmatch and clamp them down, with the glue edge about 1/8" apart . . .then run a router right up the middle of that, you will get a perfect match of edges. They may not be exactly straight, but the edges will mate perfectly. This is a good technique if you want some kind of crazy wavy edge but want them to mate perfectly. Of course you can also use a straight edge and then it will be straight and they will mate perfectly.

KOMODO

Planed quilted maple for headstock, sanded down quilted maple for body.

Next job is Drak's planing method for the quilted top pieces.

Howdy,

I've been following this thread in hopes you show more wenge trees . .drool . . .

Seriously, can you point me to Draks planing method? I'm curious. I tried searching to no avail.

I realize you are in Holland, but do you or anyone else know of a really good source for 8/4 quarter sawn wenge? I saw some on sleazebay a long time ago and didnt get it. Now I am kicking myself.

Also, In reference to the wood toxicity . . .I'm surprized at you guys. I would think you would be the most knowledgable in this area. Exotics usually have some toxicity when it comes to skin exposure, etc . . .but some domestics (US) aere actually far WORSE than most woods! If I remember correctly maple and oak are some of the worst!

But as someone mentioned . . .the fine dust from ANY wood is what kills you. Do yourself a favor and get a really high quality cyclone collector. You don't want to only worry about capturing the dust you CAN see . . it's the stuff you CAN'T see . . .

Next time you leave the shop, shut off the lights and then shine a flashlight in there. Tell me what you see in that beam and think about it.

KOMODO

I just bought a gold version of the 510 from Warmoth and have to say it's very nice. I also considered a TOM and the Schaller combo, but the body design I am working with is a slightly smaller size and I have less room to play with. So I wanted a one piece unit. Also, the 510 is very nice for palm muting. I personally find the TOM a little harder to rest my hand on.

KOMODO

That unit doesnt look wide enough to do carved tops, you should be able to do necks easily enough.

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It says it can duplicate an area "18" wide by 34" deep". I can't imagine not being able to do a top on that. I was wondering more about the bearings. Seems most other machines use linear bearings? Also I don't know about the stylus . . .I can't figure out how you adjust that or is you could swap it out? i don't know a bunch about duplicating carvers, but don't you have to match a stylus to a carving bit?

KOMODO

Howdy,

I saw this and wondered what the more experienced thought about it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

I had recently looked that the Terrco machines and others that people sent links too. This one looks like it would be the right size and price, but wonder if there's something I may not be seeing or thinking about?

Thanks!

KOMODO

Whoops, I put this in the wrong group earlier.

Howdy,

Just got my new precision Kreg bandsaw fence last night. I have been upgrading my 14" Jet (riser block, 1/4" steel re-enforcing plate below table to eliminate flex, 5" dust port, fence, etc) and finally got a fence.

I had loooked at many, this one seemed as good or better than most. I have a bunch of tools and have to say that this one is a nice surprize. Packing: Excellent, Directions: top notch (for any brand saw), Instal: easy, quality: top notch, stability: top notch, accuracy and adjustment: excellent. Real decent piece of gear, I should have done it a LONG time ago.

I also have the micro guide and the tall resaw attachment coming today. Cost of the fence was around $100 from Amazon, the extras are $10-20 a piece I think.

Highly recommended.

Someday soon, I'll try to post my shop pics in the shop pics thread and include some closer pics of this fence. Wait till you see my January 1950 manufacture Delta Unisaw. It has the old 1.5hp induction motor that weigh 5000lbs and is about 2 foot in diameter. It kicks booty. HUGE torque and contrary to modern motor plates this one actually has MORE hp than what they claim on the plate.

KOMODO

Whoops .. I reposted this in the right group.

Howdy,

Just got my new precision Kreg bandsaw fence last night. I have been upgrading my 14" Jet (riser block, 1/4" steel re-enforcing plate below table to eliminate flex, 5" dust port, fence, etc) and finally got a fence.

I had loooked at many, this one seemed as good or better than most. I have a bunch of tools and have to say that this one is a nice surprize. Packing: Excellent, Directions: top notch (for any brand saw), Instal: easy, quality: top notch, stability: top notch, accuracy and adjustment: excellent. Real decent piece of gear, I should have done it a LONG time ago.

I also have the micro guide and the tall resaw attachment coming today. Cost of the fence was around $100 from Amazon, the extras are $10-20 a piece I think.

Highly recommended.

Someday soon, I'll try to post my shop pics in the shop pics thread and include some closer pics of this fence. Wait till you see my January 1950 manufacture Delta Unisaw. It has the old 1.5hp induction motor that weigh 5000lbs and is about 2 foot in diameter. It kicks booty. HUGE torque and contrary to modern motor plates this one actually has MORE hp than what they claim on the plate.

KOMODO

Howdy,

Built one in HS ('83?) and have redone several more since. I have gathered info ever since HS and designed bunches. I never really had the shopspace, aqnd then when I did I went and had kids, so little time. But NOW . . .heheh i have more time and a wicked two-car . .err . . shop.

Over the years I have always entertained the notion of making a living doing it, but of course we have to walk before we run. So, I will be knocking out my first couple here really soon. I have already done some 2x4 glueups and made two prototype bodies to get the shape and sizes right. Can't recommend that enough for a new design. My whole philosophy and approach to guitar building has been somewhere in the Parker/Steinberger type area . . .although i came from a total 80's metal guitar shredder type background (my personal playing), so this should be interesting. I'll get some designs or pics up soon. I think you guys will like them.

Side note: should we be worried about posting original designs up here? Esp if we have any intention at all of trying to make a living with an original design? (pipe dreams and all)

Is there a way to protect a body design? I assume so since Gibson went after PRs . . what a crock.

Anyway, I've been lurking here for quite some time, and this is an awesome resource. Thanks to all.

KOMODO

PS-thats me and Roy Underhill in my pic .. .how cool is that? "here . .you take the axe"