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bugman96

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Everything posted by bugman96

  1. bugman96
    I'm going to have a black limba body with a maple neck and was thinking about finishing the neck to match the limba. I was thinking using a minwax stain on the maple and then finshing it with a mix of boiled linseed, turpentine, and polyurethane. Would that work or would I have problems with the oil over the minwax? Any alternative selections or better ways to match the maple to the limba? Thanks.
  2. bugman96
    they come unfinished, unless you pay them to lacquer it up.
  3. bugman96
    So would I have any problems if I took a graduated height 6-inline set and converted 3 of them to use on a 3x3 headstock since you get 2 of each post height?
  4. bugman96
    I like it. Reminds me of the one I've been planning.
  5. bugman96
    So I know the 6-inline sperzels come with graduated post heights to eliminate the need for string trees on necks without an angled headstock. If used on a neck with an angled headstock would it make sense to put the tuner with the shortest post closest to the nut to eliminate unecessary tension on the strings?
  6. bugman96
    thanks
  7. bugman96
    They look nice. What did you use for the body edge of the walnut/mahogany guitar
  8. bugman96
    I've been searching around for prices for electronics that are cheaper than stewmac and found Grizzly. Has anyone here bought their pots or switches and could comment on their quality?
  9. bugman96
    Did a search, found nothing. Planning on mounting HB's with rings on a tele-style setup. My question is, what is a good thickness for the rings? Stewmac has them (flat bottom) at 3/8" or 3/16" and Grizzly has them at 0.082" thick. What's the thickest I can get away with? Believe it or not, I do not currently have any kind of measuring device avaiblable.
  10. bugman96
    I think this might be what you're looking for a tech helped me draw it out for what I wanted and then I just modded it to fit what you wanted. Black is ground, though I didn't draw in the ground wire that goes to the bridge EDIT: I don't know how p90s are in terms of the wires they have coming out of them so this might not be entirely accurate.
  11. bugman96
    Those look really nice. I'm considering this finish partly because I don't have the equipment to spray a nice lacquer finish and partly because it looks nice. And I do have some more questions Since the oil is soaking in do I have to worry about it building up in the neck pocket (if that did happen I could just sand it out, right)? Do I need to protect pickup and control cavities...like will the oil finish in the control cavity interfere with shielding tape sticking to the wood? Wet sanding is dampening the wood (which would be better in this case - water or a solvent) then sanding with the grain, then wipe the slurry across the grain? Can you give me an estimate of about how much of the mixture I'll need to submerge the guitar? Thanks for your help.
  12. bugman96
    Thanks. I would've thought the initial soaking of the wood would take longer than that. I'm guessing if I finish it with this method I won't need grain filler b/c the oil mixture totally soaks in and the urethane polymerizes to seal it?
  13. bugman96
    I just ordered some black limba from Gilmer Wood and spoke with Marc (their instrument-wood guy) and he recommended using a 1:1:1 mixture of linseed oil, turpentine, and polyurethane. Has anyone tried this? It sounds like what's going on in this thread http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...3&hl=turpentine but is maybe a little harder/offers more protection? And would ever have to reapply something like this down the road?
  14. bugman96
    I just restrung my tele with the same gauge strings as were previously on there (replaced them one at a time) and now the A and low E strings buzz (even when fretted). Does this sound like a truss rod thing or should I simply raise the action a little.
  15. bugman96
    They don't when I click on them.
  16. bugman96
    that is beautiful
  17. bugman96
    I think it looks good. I like the fretboard (excepting the inlays).
  18. bugman96
    Check out Modulus...their basses have carbon-fiber necks. http://www.modulusguitars.com/v2/products/quantum/index.html
  19. bugman96
    I think some Warwick basses use ash back/maple top
  20. bugman96
    If you can purchase from a chemical supplier, borax is sodium borate decahydrate (also goes by: Sodium borate; disodium salt; Sodium tetraborate; Sodium tetraborate decahydrate; Disodium tetraborate decahydrate). borax is used to break the surface tension of the water so that the paint can swirl around, so if you can't get it from a chemical supply (or maybe ask the chemistry department at a university), you *might* use something else to break the surface tension like a dye-free soap (mix gently to avoid bubbles). EDIT: The soap method probably won't work for staining/painting swirls....it will break surface tension though.
  21. bugman96
    Thanks! Since it doesn't matter I'm gonna assume I could use grain filler to protect it a little rather than lacquering?
  22. bugman96
    So then the neck pocket (and cavities) don't need to get sealed?
  23. bugman96
    I saw on this thread that Drak is going to spray lacquer in the neck pocket. If I'm going to use an open grained wood like korina would I have to spray the neck pocket/pickup and control cavities or would just grain filler do the job?
  24. bugman96
    Find the guitar's serial number (my jazzmaster has it on the neck plate). Then go here: http://www.fender.com/support/dating/fender_us_dating.php
  25. bugman96
    How about if you're going use a single coil and a humbucker with one volume and one tone knob? Still use 500k's?
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