krazyderek

17.12" radius on the bridge if your doing a 10 to 16 compound board.

So i was messing around with my new (old) Carvin x-100b head, my solid state roland amp and a bunch of wires.

Really looking for opinions / critiques on the sound and tone quality, don't mind my 2am playing...

Derek - test recording

go for it, i might give'r a try some day.

show exactly how you did it then put a small blurb with the essential theory like "now if you wanted to change it and this, then you would need this because.... yada yada..." give one or two other examples that would stear most people in the right direction... and pictures always help

click here for a high resolution pic of the body.

Good luck!!

yes

agreed, sell the parts individually you're bound to make way more

do they have woodshop at your school? try asking the teacher if you can come in after school. or try and get in the class. If you have the design layed (drawn with center line, to scale, with all the details, and the wood you want to use (ie: you're organized and prepared) most shop teachers are happy to help you along.

i've always though of maple as a tele wood... bright with not a whole lot of sustain or bass

you're doing something wrong if strings are breaking to much, there's a friction point at the saddle, or you're just not playing big enough strings for how hard your style is. Does your friend know about the quick way to fix a broken string on a floyd? if it breaks at the bridge just undo that one lock at the nut, unloop the string from the tuner one turn, lock it back in the saddle, clamp the nut back down, and fine tune. faster then changing a regular string i find. i might have a subjective view though

so do you just use a drill for the first 1/2" or so?  So then the bearing will line up with the edge of the template?

yes, as frenzy said, i pre drill as deep as possible (but don't to to deep) get as much wood out of there as possible, so that on my first pass my bearing on the template bit is able to line up with any template weather it's a 3/16" acrilic or 5/8" plywood, without routing to much wood on this pass and burning everything all to hell.

Guitar frenzy did an excellent job demonstrating this in his "building a strat" pictorial

sounds about right, generic maple here is 3.80 per board foot, i just don't like the stuff.

interesting, i've been considering this finish on one or 2 of my guitars, but doesn't it offer no protection at all? a classical guitarist here said it's an amazing finish, but he can't touch his guitar, when his right arm sits on the top of the lower bout he has to always be wearing a shirt, or his sweat will go thru the finish and then start to eat the wood?

there's a bearing on one end of the router bit,

you attach the templates with some good double stick tape.

Router Tutorial

get your sniper riffles out guys!! 2 hours left!

You're looking for something like this...

It's called dry coat, designed to be sprayed on cutting tools to improve the cutting edge life. NOT to be confused with TOPcoat, which is a lubricant you spray on your slidding surfaces, like planers, jointers, table saws, band saws, etc.

start from the sides, it's a good idea to rout a little indented edge around the whold guitar if you know that's the depth you want at the edges, then remove the excess (takes about 10 mins), and then carfully make shallow passes (with the grinder) to get your final rough shape.

I have to agree with perry, if your carefull and quick the grinder is the best way to go, like any tool though, it has a certain technique that will yeild the best results.

2- what is the drill bit size for a string through the body construction? i'm planning using a hradtail bridge bridge.

i usualy use the same size hole as what's in the bottom of the bridge, that way the string doesn't get hung up under the bridge when trying to feed the string thru, then just center and drill the apropriate sized ferrules holes on the back

i tend to agree, out of everything stew mac offers and all you need is side dots?

how far are these guys from NC ??

they have really nice stuff

can you get prices on mahogony, and bubinga in US $

Mahogany 8.18$ USD/board foot

Bubinga 11.36$ USD/board foot

i don't have the crotch mahogany price, they've put out a new price list since last year cause they've added quite a few new woods, i'll have to get it and scan it in.

As far as i know they've never had a website.

in CAN $ basswood is 4.80, and ash is 5.20, both prices are per board foot. So a board for a body blank 40"x7"x2" would be 21.45$ and 23.23$ respectively (tax included).

for the 1/2 in. shank problem, dont they make adapters? i think i have seen one for a drill press, and there are probley some for routers.

you can only decrease the collet size, not increase, and yes they make adapters for decreasing

adapters

well actually no, they only have one fee for resawing, and it's 20$ but you can do as many resaws as you want for that, so if you buy a 12 foot board that's 6" thick and get it resawn 29 times it's still only 20$, but other then that it's free.

oh dear.., i'm contageous

Like scott said, table edge bits, leevalley and mlcs also carry those bits at slightly better prices

Usually used for decorations, if they're set at the right depth they can be used as a round over bit aswell. Odd thing is i was thinking about round over bits just about an hour ago heh..

that's what i love about east coast, they'll do pretty much anything to the wood without any charge, rip, joint 2 edges and plane the other two, only time they charge is for resawing.

I put up an auction for a floyd w/ nut packaged with a d-tuna! check it out and bid if you like to save a couple bucks off my website prices.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1