krazyderek

ya, vinnie's a cool guy, i had the chance to meet him (shook his hand and acted like a tool) when he played a Q&A show up here in halifax

but i liked eric johnson (the tone god) on the last tour... him with the other 2 was just perfect.

i heard the only holes ur supposed to pre drill are the tuner holes, and the routed cavities (obviously), but the other stuff, like the volume and tone pot holes, strap holes, pickguard, bridge wholes (strat hardtail) etc... are all supposed to be drilled after finishing, and use a downward spiral bit so u don't chip the finish.

But that's just what i heard.

ya, that's what i've been using so far, for sourses, but i want one big list, with ALL the info, like most don't have specific weights.... and tonal characteristics... being the major 2 issues. thanks anyways

there was a french store online that sold them, *cracks his bilingual knuckels* i'll try and dig it up

thaaaaaaaaaaaank you, i never even thought to look on amazon.... now i'll do my regular, "should i spend the money or not" routine for the next 2 hours...

anyone know a good website (i've seen a couple flimsy ones and other incomplete ones) or book, pdf file, magazine....anything with the specific weight, strength, stiffness, colour, workability, and weather it's open of closed grained. For all the woods we use on guitars? like alder, basswood, poplar, mahogany, lacewood, maple, ebony, rosewood, i'm also interesting in finding a list that would include alot of more exotic woods like bloodwood, purple heart, zircote, tulip wood, pau amarello etc... and also the tonal characteristics would be a nice little bonus

ya, i just said screw it and pressed them in since it was a new FB.... i'll try some super glue/filler when i refret my other guitar

all this electrical hooie has always put my brain in knots, like i can follow diagrams, and wire my own guitars, but i just wish i could be a spec of energy and flow through the wires for a minute or two so i actually understood how everything worked. like really worked... withouth having to read up on electronic currents etc.

ya, that's pretty much what i do now, and it's time consumming, i'd rather just make one template i could use over and over and not have to worry about getting the neck perfect cause i've already taken care of that.

ya, i use the 3M carpet tape.... that stuff's practically a glue...

Well i want to try and make a neck thru guitar using a full template and just cut out the guitar tracing that with a flush trim, and template bit, obviously making several passes. But i'm having a bit of trouble (that are now scraps) getting the neck section to come out straight on either side. i want the neck to be 43mm at the nut and 56@ the 22nd fret.. i was going to trace my favorite tele neck with a bearing bit, but it's 42 at the nut so now the only thing i can come up with is use a straight edge of some sort and tape it to the top of the template at the nut and 22 fret then trace that line onto the guitar with a flush trim bit.. but that'll still be kinda inprasice/ iffy... i mean what if the ruler moves a tad? oh ya, just to let u know i was using 11inch stationary belt sander but even that couldn't get into one of the hornes so i had to switch to the 1" drum... which just wasn't working. I want the neck to be perfect cause i want to be able to cut out the guitar via the template, sand down and rough sections. (rout pickup cavs etc) then put on the fingerboard and use the template bit and trace the neck so as to cut off the excess FB material, then fret, then shape the back of the neck, then paint. So u see, i would like to rely heavily on the template for the shape of the body and neck. so as to only have to "think" about the shape once.

so... any ideas? i'll probably just say screw the 43mm nut and trace my tele neck but, i wanted to see if u guys could throw me a bone...

dowl would probably be a little to tricky to get right... i often thought about using my dad's biscut jointer, but most people on here i think just glue'em up and clamp them together.

The Parker fly ..... classics are wood bodies, maple or mahogany, with poplar cored necks covered in carbon fiber, the fretboards are solid carbon fiber.

i thought they used basswood at the core of their necks?

thanks for the advice. I think I would want the rout to be flat that way I can lay in the inlay that is much more that the depth of the rout and sand it flush. Do you guys think this is the best option?

yes, doing a flat inlay (idealy before carving) is probably the best way to go. if u rout the section to the contour of the top of the guitar ur going to run into problems,depending on how wavy ur contour is, trying to get the inlay to fit in the holes correctly (ie - angles on the sides, and the curve in the depth) a flat one will allow u to just drop ur inlay in and then u just have to level it with the rest of the carve on the guitar.

that plastic router base sucks.i have nothing but trouble with mine.stewmac has a much better onehere

if u have one that has an open circle on the bottom, just try cutting out a circle of plexi glass and use some glue or double sidded tape to attach it to the bottom, voila, cheap inexpensive dremel base.

i'm kinda torn between utra protection against twisting and trying to leave as much wood as possible. i'm going go out on a limb here and say that a good maple neck with just a small one way truss rod is going to sound better then a neck with a bigger doulble action rod, and 2 carbon rods. I mean to me that's just removing to much wood from the neck, there's hardly any wood left for the tone to travel thru.. u might as well just buy one of those all carbon necks if ur so concerened about having a perfectly flat neck 24/7, though they are a bit pricey, they're probably dead on perfect all the time.

yup, you'll just have a very bright sound and it will weight alot!

ok well let's say i use my epoxy, put some on the bottom of the fret and press it in the new board, do i have to hold it pressed in for 5 mins so that the epoxy sets up or just make sure the fret is good and in there, then move on?

depending on how big an inlay, u could lay ur guitar on a large flat surface and creat a roof for it, using a couple 2x4's and a sheet of a ¼" acrylic part of which would lay flat on the center of the guitar and the sides would be supported by 2x4's paneled down to the right thickness, that would give u ur level surface?

ok well the neck in question is a 10" radius and the wire has been bent to 10" radius, and i have the proper 10" radius press thingy....

just a quick question, does everyone use super glue when pressing they're frets in? i'm guessing it'd work fine without the glue, it's just kinda some insurance to keep them in place. I'll probably use glue, but would epoxy be just as good? or will epoxy make it impossible to remove the frets for a refret down the road? (i'm thinking that only super glue can be heated up to make it loosen up)

doesn't parker use a sheet of carbon fiber on the back of their guitar for strength? i guess that's not really a finishing aspect since it's on the back and it's black...

you could use a big hand saw

even though it doesn't have oak, i must say that GHV is a pretty sweet looking guitar, wouldn't mind getting my hands on the design for that anyone know where?

yes, the router is mounted on springs and you have to physicaly push it into the wood like a drill, then start routing