krazyderek

......but don't get too aggressive with them, you can burn and clog-up the sandpaper.....remove a little stock at a time and you'll be fine.

use one of these... (the block)

Where can someone get ebony that thick, and in that length, though? I've never seen it except in Alembic necks, and I'm not about to call up Alembic and ask for access to their private stock, given their prices

most specialty wood stores in north america...

i got a 50" peice of 1x2 ebony for neck thru laminates for 66$ (50$US) localy

Ebay as fingerboard sized blanks of ebony all the time that just need to be resaw.

oh dear...... i've had 3 different people send me different links to various sites with that video.... it's just the ending performance on the larrivee guitar tour video, i watched that over a year ago, i beleive the performers name is Justin King, and his style resembles that of Preston Reed.

if you're going to laminate a neck i say use some 1/4" peices of ebony and get some added strength for all your work instead of just some "cool" black lines...

you said "this" a couple times and i'm not quite sure what "this" is... ? you mean just use the standard tele bridge? or a tele Humbucker birdge? or a standard Strat style hardtail ?

why not just install a second switch instead of retopping it? so it has a functional switch where you want it and just leave the one that is in the spot you don't like? might look kinda cool to have two... and you wouldn't have to chuck that top..? and if you are chucking it, can i have it

mine

very nice. what arpeggios did you use?

just normal major and minor ones with 7ths?

Whole guitar is in Standard C so everything down 2 whole steps for me but these are the correct notes..

the "arepeggios" are:

Gminor in A form then 2 triplet variations of that,

then, C minor in C form then2 triplet variations of that,

then, F minor in A form then 2 triplet variations of that,

then, Bflat minor in C form,

then Bflat major in C form.

and the 2 starting runs are:

G Aeolean adding a high C (12th fret) then the same thing on the a string an octave higher ending a bit shorter this time on the G.

I'd tab it but i don't think many of your play in C, and thanks for all the kind words

Hey, does anybody know how to convert a standard bone nut to a floyd rose locking nut?

assuming there's enough wood there after the fingerboard you can use a wide and very sharp chisel to remove the excess wood then use a medium size file to level out the shelf, it will probably be easier to use a top mounted nut that uses wood screws.

Yeah, jointers are tricky to set up right. Well, let me say that again... the monkeys that normally work at cabinet shops, usually have no idea how to set them up correctly. If they are sharp, and you take small cuts with each pass, you wont get tearout. ****, ive machined up some killer quilt without tearout, and if any grain is gunna tear, its flame or quilt.

I've also found that he feeding speed affects tearout aswell, feeding to fast leads to chatter and tearout, if you go really slow and take reallly shallow passes you don't do as much damage to the blades vs deep pases, and your wood comes out really smooth where as feeding fast you get those little ripples in the wood.

Spent the past couple days finishing up a neck made me want to rip out some riffs, so i was just taking a hour to relax and play i came up with this, thought i'd brag, woopse.... i mean share

Derek - Jason Becker Tribute

Enjoy!

that's amazing Drak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LMI says on their site that this rod requires an "11/32" – 3/8" depth of slot by 1/4" wide"  So does this mean it's a straight slot?

No of course not, a zig zag slot! yes just a simple straight slot with a constant depth.

If so, why wouldn't the thing just slide right out the end of the headstock? What holds it in?

Usualy the adjustment hole isn't big enough to let the truss rod slide out of the peghead side of the neck.

Some Necks are designed with the truss rod access the heel of the neck for this exact reason, the truss rod can slide right out of the neck if it ever needs to be replaced.

What holds it in? The truss rod cover?   Is it a friction fit or should there be a slight tolerance width-wise? I also don't know exactly how long to make the slot.

Yes it is friction fit, if you routed correctly the truss rod should sit snuggly into the slot and once the string tension is on the neck it's not going anywhere.

The length of the slot is going to be the length of the rod it's self + a small area at the end that's wider then the rod to give you room to work with your allen key. Possition the adjustment end of the rod close to the nut, the exact location will depend on your peghead angle, nut type / string retainer type.

there was another old thread on this way back, several people have used riser blocks in their saws to increase the height of the saw, then you just need to buy a longer blade.

Lex used some maple shims and he said they worked ok.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...wtopic=7516&hl=

his pics aren't still there but it works the same way as any bandsaw does, there's bolts that connect the lower and upper arms of the saw, simply put a hard block in there and use longer bolts if you have to.

i've never trusted sanders to be that true, but then again i only use a little 300$ model, that thing is hudge GuitarFrenzy!!!!

In terms of perfect i gave this a try, gives you a perfectly continual 1/4" curve, with no guess work. I was hessitant at first, but if you take it slowly and clamp the template to a square fence you should have no problem as i didn't.

Then just use the correct height template bit for the neck heel, or a couple of bearings on a short one.

Was that what you wanted? Something that was just a bit more precise?

What was it for anyways?

just one, they joint, glue and plane them for you, hence you buy one, two peice body, or one one peice body

at least we have finished guitars...

details..... details....

come on, admit it! you guys are all just to lazy to put them in!

very nice consistent grain, i'm sure you could come up with something a bit less brakable.

you're kinda doing this backwards, do a little research for 7 string bridges, pick one you want to use, then decide on either a 48mm (standard) or 50.4mm (wide) nut and work the rest out with a peice of paper and a long ruler for drawing the lines.

if you're going to get a humidifier and all, why not use a smalle room, put a glass window and door on it, do the inside in cedar, and keep a humidifier / dehumidifier in the room to keep it regulated, then you'll have a nice little regualted accoustic properly moisturized room, i'm sure there's plenty more details... but depending on how many guitars you want to maintain that might be the root to go

excellent work! but what about the oil tank? didn't think that would fit in if it was painted? Either way good call on the radiator, sutble but ties in nice.

It looks like I can carve everything from the single slab and make the headstock with a slight angle of just over 3 degrees.  Knowing that the fretboard is going to add 1/4" and that the nut is a little higer than that, am I going to gain anything with such a dinky 3 degree angle on the headstock?

why not just make a fender style flat head stock?

Can you put a drum sander on a tabel router? (I have a drill press, but I dont like using it, as it is in a cramped corner)

nope, we actually just talked about that, try just try a searchy thing for it