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Posts posted by krazyderek
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To route the deeper ears I slip an insert into the route, and run the bearing against the insert and the sides of the route until the ears are at full depth. There's a good pic of this kind of insert at Derek's website.
Since I'm new here I don't know how to find Derek or his site. I would like to see the insert find out more about routing humbuckers for my project.
If someone could help me get to Derek's site I'd be greatful.
I'm honored
i beleive he was refering to the template i made for routing a 7 string floyd, The little bar in the main recessing part there just pops in and out (double stick tape).
Althought it never dawned on me to make one for pickup ears, i've just been doing it by hand all this time!!! lol good thinking setch!
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actually.... alot of people (and some major manufacturers) use tape, straws, foam, wax... alot of things to keep the rods from dancing around in the slot, if the glove fits
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Several people make that bit, as i also discovered a while back.
routerbits.com #sc13
mlcswoodworking.com #5156 & 5176 (spirals)
amazon.com Freud - 04-111
one of them should at least ship international.... i think amazon with the freud bit was the cheapest
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Yes but it requires the right size round over bit, aswell it will only work on strat style necks, angled back headstocks would get in the way. I would also recommend the router be mounted in a table instead of hand held. As with any routing operation, this can be very dangerous and damaging if you don't feed the wood the correct direction.
If you have a copy carver then, yes, and you'll just need to smooth it out with some sand paper after
Alternatively, spokeshave is my weapon of choice, but there is also a rasp (like a cheeze gratter for wood), or a stationary sander with the appropriate sanding grit.
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what are you going to be using to make the templates? cause in most cases it's actually cheaper to buy them then trying to make your own if you're not setup to do that.
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Derek, why do you suppose a strat would have higher action than, say, a LP?
the radius, really round radius needs higher action so that the strings don't buzz out when you bend them high, and just fender's in general tend to be setup for higher action from the factory (or at least that's what i've noticed) then say an RG or the likes.... never really played an LP so can't comment there
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many of the great players play with rediculusly HIGH action in fact... johnson plays a strat so it doesn't suprise me that it's rather high... chet atkins is another good example, played with extremely high action. I'd hasard a guess that SRV also played with some fairly high action aswell, satriani also seems like he'd need some high action for all the trem work he does. I've noticed exactly what soap is talking about aswell. After leving my frets and setting the action super low it was easier but i couldn't pick as hard, and bends were much tricker cause the other strings would get in the way to much.
but no, i don't have any tricks as i don't really like low action
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looks like a bubble jem cause it's all round hehe
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you mean the bottom middle template?
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The difference between 10 and 12 will be very small when it comes to the effect on the action. A 2" difference in radius is still quite playable - beyond that (4" diff) you might start noticing it.
Someone here has the equation to figure out how much height difference there is at the edge of the fretboard but I can't remember who.
If you have radius guages, draw the 12 and the 10 together (with the peaks lined up) - you'll see how small the difference is at the edges. From there, you can get an idea of whether or not you think it will be acceptable.
This spread sheet will help you calculate any radius you would need for guitar necks and bridges.
Guitar radius spread sheet (requires excel)
Three pages, with descriptions at the top telling you what to do, works in metric or standard.
Thanks to nyjbkim for the help on the math.... i'm still working on making a java page for this.. *cough* meastro * cough*
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go to your local music store and see if they have a peavey wolfgang, it's a top mount floyd, ie it sits on the top of the guitar directly, no routing, and no pulling back on the trem, only down. depending the depth of the neck pocket and the thickness of the neck at the heel, it may not require any neck angle.
These are the only instructions i know of to install a floyd.
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WELL!!! got the amp back tonight, he tested it out, and went over all the wirring, and checked the tubes. Everything was fine except some dirty pots... so it was only 23$ for a check up. Anyone have a boss distorition or super overdrive they're selling? I'll play with the amp a bit with some pedals in front of the drive channel, but as it stands this doesn't look likethe amp for me
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that's a cool trem rout, having a seperate hole for the trem bar bolts. Very clean work !
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call him
did last night, aparantly he was just getting to my amp later that night. Which sounds fair, when i dropped the head off there where 5 other heads sitting in his living room, i just hope it's worth the wait
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does anyone know of a product/ saw blade, for a table saw that is the thickness of the fretwire?
where can i get the .019" fretwire!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????????????????
rhoads sells stainless steel fretwire that i beleive has a 0.019" tang, just run a search for stainless steel fret wire in the classifides,
stew mac and lmi both sell the table saw blade for fretting, but in 0.023" curf's.
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a week later..... still waiting for a call back from him....
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Oh, and if you go to NAMM, and get invited out with the Graph-Tech guys, be warned. They'll say "Let's go get a few beers", but what you don't hear is the word 'hundred' before the word 'beers'. In Canadian, it's silent. LOL
THANKS MARTY, DAVE AND TRINA!
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GOTM!!!!! GOTM!!!!! GOTM!!!!!!
very nice dude, i love the contrasting yellow and blue sides, the inlay is pretty out there !!!!! lol and i think the top is just the shade of dark blue for that guitar, matche's the ebony perfectly!
hope she treats you well!
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I think the most versatile trem unit is the vintage trem thats on most standard strats.....you can easily tune them to whatever pitch you like without worrying about adjusting the strings at the back.
Do you actually own one of these? cause factory setup they come in a floating position at some angle to the body, so they're floating just like a locking trem. and since they don't have the isolation of a locking saddle and nut they take even longer to alternate tune accurately, and yes you do have to adjust the springs just like on a "floyd" guitar if you're going to drop tune or what have you, unless you like having your bridge floating at the wrong place?
Alot of the problems people are stating can be solved by:
A. either installing the trem EVH style to sit on the top of the guitar
or
B. I can't beleive, (maybe i just missed it) no one mentioned the invention of the year, the TREMOL-NO it'll let all you picky players do exactly what you want with the trem that was previously impossible, yet still have that trem bar handy when ever you need it.
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one thing i like over hardtails is that floyd equiped guitars seem to make bends easier, because the springs bend aswell as the strings, it just seems to have more of a loose feeling, i think it actually releives some of the tension compared to the same guitar with a hartail.
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nice contours on the back of the guitar, especially around the neck pocket. me likes!
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generaly you try to find the lightest hardwood possible for instruments, idealy the wood with the highest strength/stability/hardness to weight ratio
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hmmm....
Measurements are 13/16" x 3-1/2" x 27"....the measurments have to be at least* 2''x 5'' x--35''
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indeed, if you look at the dimarzio pdf catalogue, you'll see the hs-2 and 3 aswell as the yjm have some of the lowest outputs of all their pickups. Yngwie gets his tone (drive) from using a dod 250 in front of a marshall tube amp.
Les Paul in progress...
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
nono, just showing the pic with the insert