krazyderek

here, now stop bugging me the middle of the curve transition from the neck to the heal is right on the 18th fret. strating at the 17th ending as a heel by the 20th/21st fret.

what's your fasination with the back of the guitars anyways? some weird fetish?

wasn't blowing up, just making a statement, i realize some people might just be curious, but i can't say. i will say i don't consider myself a pro, and didn't charge "pro" price's

I'll take some pics of the back tonight when i go over to talk to the painter.

When I say these bodies are labor intensive and made by hand, I'm not kidding...

i hope you're kidding right? please tell me that's not how you actually sand the edges of your bodies and templates?

price isn't an issue here for 2 major reasons, i'm not making anymore for other people cause i just don't have the time to deliver product in a timely manor, and second, you shouldn't use what i charged as a guage for what you should charge, the fact that you're asking that question means you're not ready to build for other people yet.

thanks for all the nice comments though.

I'll put up pics when they're painted.

The entire guitar's will be painted, including the back of the necks. The inlay was inspired by that signature bass, and Guitarmaestro's inlay aswell. The V is actually basswood body and headstock. Both guitar's are extremely light.

Well, finaly got these guitars done for some teenagers around here that finaly got all the money together. This is the last picture after final sanding before paint.

The V shape was a one-off custom i designed, with influences from mosher custom's. The ironbird style guitar, is just a replica of that guitar altered to 7 string dimensions.

They're both going to be painted "flat" black, 7 strings, black hardware, 7 string floyd's one with emg707's, other with dimarzio evolution7's.

I'll put up a link to the page for these guitars once the latest pics are uploaded (i'm way to tired after all that sanding).

Peace.

I enjoy working with mahogany, it moves quite a bit more then other tone woods as humidity changes, but it's a pleasure in terms of woodworking. Cuts well, planes good, chisels nicely, slices well, shave's well, not as toxic as say, redwood, or basswood, and it's not to heavy a wood.

Thought i might aswell post the whole thing, leveled out perfectly with my spokeshave and scraper, you can really see the fit was indeed perfect

And then i redid the whole thing, made templates this time too so i won't have a repeat, and cause i like emg's more and more

It's kinda hard to see the ring around it, but it's there, it's just a lighter colour then the original mahog cause of oxydation.

hmm, this might make a good tutorial

well it went well, just deepened the outer route, and thankfully found my fine wood chisel's (these puppy's are SHARP!)

sliced the corners with my chisels, having my good ones really made that easier

measured the gap, one side had a 1deg angel to it, cut the right size block, test fit, it was good and snug, no gaps, glued, and tapped it in place

thought it would have taken alot longer, course, this just puts me back at square one... no pun intended

ok ok, wes was right, i'll just deepen that outer route to 1/2", cut a block to fit in it, glue and tap it in, level re-rout, so all you'll see is a little outer ring around the lip of the box. until it's all cover by paint anyways.

you can see the inner rout is... yuck..

the outer one is ok, i probably just used the wrong bushing / router bit size combination.

i don't have templates for either, i must have just used 4 peices of straight wood.

and as you can see i don't have room for a second one there , good thought though frank

i'm thinking just mix up enough woodglue& dust to fill the top of it. I don't have enough time to do up templates to make a whole, and a peice to fit into it, then another template for the actual hole... guitar has to be to paint on monday and this is item # 7 of 40 that has to be done to the guitar.

i thought about cutting some wood blocks to fill it in, but the corners are kinda hacked cause they had to be chiseled square... but most of it is coming out so blahh.... why didn't i make a template!!!

i was thinking auto bondo, but would it really be better then wood glue/epoxy + sawdust??

this is going to be a solid colour anyways so not worried what it looks like

For dings in a body i usualy just rub some wood glue and sawdust together to make putty and fill any dents and then sand it flush.

I screwed up a route for a battery box a while back and i'm now trying to fix it. I should have just made a template for it, but it looks like i tried to free hand it.

Anyhoo, any quick products for filling a big hole ? there's also a 1/16th" recessed shelf for the top lip of the box that is to big aswell. I duno what i was thinking when i did this but i'm not leaving it that way. So i need something that will basicly fill the whole thing, i'll level it down to the body and rout it back out properly. Not sure if my sawdust woodglue will take well to that much re-routing.

If you have the right tools, then use a straight edge to check the frets, see how low the lowest fret is compared to the highest, if u have a leveling bar, just level it, i don't really like partial referts, so worst case you're just going to make all the frets "to" low, but chances are you should catch most of the buzzing, then u know for sure next time you'll have to refret.

If you don't know what i'm talking about or don't have the tools, maybe take it to a pro in you area for his/her opinion.

that tutorial actually doesn't demonstrate converting to an AANJ, but rather just thinning the part of the body that bolts to the heel, in which case doing this to a strat would require nothing other then some shorter neck bolts and new paint. There are repercusions in thinning away support of the neck in this area though.

Maybe you should just pickup a neck plate such as this one, and trim the neck pocket to meet it, doesn't take much to free your hand around those bottom frets.

available from guitar parts depot,

Fender has also had a contoured neck joint for quite a bit now on some of it's guitars

taken from a seller on ebay..

i might take it to a pro for an isolated job like that, or if you're feeling in the mood, maybe the stewmac fret rocker, a medium size jewlers file, and a small set for touching up, and some steel wool.

for suggestions, on wood selection, especially some eye grabbing woods, check ou the GOTM history, there have been some excellent species displayed in that, also check out the threads with the entries.. some of them weren't even winners.

first off, i can't beleive you don't know who eric johnson is... i mean... holly crap!!!!!!!!! any moderate guitar player that owns, wants to own, or has had a strat, should know who he is..... man... *shakes head*

anyways, yes, this guitar should have noticable differences between your stock replica or american standard strat. As Zero metioned, they're small, but i for one am glad that he came out with a signature guitar, as long as it keeps up to his specs, i've long wanted that guitar i saw on the austin city limits video. with all the different strat lines offered by fender, and mod's eric does, it was hard to come close before.

prices for w-5008, w-01g, w-3119, and sf590t please

the stewmac miter box if you have time to set it up perfectly, will give dead on results (combined of course with thry fretting templates) http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl..._Miter_Box.html

or if you have a really good table saw and sturdy slider arm then their circular saw blade (combined again with they fretting templates) http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...ting_Blade.html

this would be ideal if you already have a 1hp or more 4" dust collector.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H6397

But to answer your question, the easiest thing would be to just build a plywood copy of one of these

http://busybeetools.com/pictures/CT048.jpg

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0535

and just omit some of the space at the bottom, and leave a big ol 4" to hook up your dust collector.

you pay for what you get... i baught some of his 7 string ones thinking "eh, why not for that price"..... most useless thing i've ever baught... they had this awfull thin, tin can sound to them. Invest your money into a good set of pickups that have been around for a while. Armstrong seems to be a good inexpensive namebrand, but i prefer to stick to emg, dimarzio and seymour's

it can be used without a floyd, especially with bridge's like schaller's fine tuning tune-o-matic, but it just adds another level of complexity you don't need if you're not using a trem. I'm pretty sure floyd nuts were never designed with nylon strings in mind, they're just to soft. I'd suggest a good slippery nut and a nice set of tuners.

all i see is a big U and the catalogue pics don't show