krazyderek

i use a metal straight edge, line it up and rout one side, witha a flush trim bit, then setup and do the other side, i leave about a 1/32" on either side (roughly 0.5mm) to allow for final sanding and back shaping.

there is a noticable different when using a more powerfull router, if your dad plans to use it aswell i'd suggest you guys bite the bullet and get something medium to high end, the reason is the percision with which the router will be made and operate, you can get a 3hp router for under 100$ here fine and dandy but it'll be all giggly, hard to fine tune and adjust, where as a 200$ router is just made better.

What you're looking for is an edge guide, a router that supports both 1/4" and 1/2" collets, and at least 1-3/4hp

I think the freud is the best deal on that site..

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...=67333&id=17864

Also see if you can look into porter cable, if they're available in your country, i keep hearing great things about their routers.

I also wear gloves with everything excpt the band saw (wouldnt want it to get caught up in there)

I sanded a knuckle once, and learned my lesson. It took 2 months to heal

i'm not a big supporter of gloves, i'd just try and keep my hand away from the moving sanpaper next time

lukly my bit only broke and fell into one of my predrilling holes, no shattering, not even a dent into my rout...

additionaly, if your router doesn't have a built in dust collection port, (like my chicago electric) then you should be wearing a resperator mask

going'a router bit shopping tomorow!!!!!!!

did you look at the thread pinned in this section that lexluthier wrote??

Neck Shaping

There really is no best tool for neck shaping. You can use the tried and true spokeshave, rasps and files, or a sanding drum. I began with a spokeshave, but in my experience found they left 'chunky' heels and a 'bowed' look to the neck, maybe it was just my technique though. Spokeshaves are a great, inexpensive tool(mine was $25), and are easy to use, however, I found they can get caught, and or chip out figured wood. This is where rasps and files can come in. You could shape a neck entirely with a spokeshave or rasps and files, or probably best, a combination. Use the spokeshave to rough out the shape, and take it down with rasps and files. I myself use a 4" x 36" bench top belt/disc sander, I actually use the idle drum with the belt sanding portion raised to about 45*. I find I can get really crisp, accurate heels with this method. Also, I rough out the neck with a 60grit belt, then move up to 120grit to do the fine shaping. Another bonus to the belt sander is I use it for alot of other things, including headstock thicknessing. I'm not listing PROS/CONS for this section as I believe there is no better method/tool to go about shaping a neck, it is just a presonal preference.

hehe, well this wasn't the highest quality bit to start with, so the tip of the cutter has chipped away. The major thing was that it was getting fairly dull from all the hardwood routing. All the wear on the protective (in this case yellow) paint can sometimes be an indicator aswell.

the shaft and the bit are both 1/4" and i had used it to do some deep routes before, just some burn marks from the shaft touching the edge of the wood.

I had a 1/4" straight cutter that was nearing the end of it's life, so i wasn't really being carefull with it and just wanted to see if i could do a pickup route in 2 passes. i set it to roughly 13mm (1/2") after i had predrilled most of it, and let looose. About 3/4 of the ways around the perimeter of the route i just felt things get "easier" then it dawned on me, so i stoped the router and looked, sure enough the bit had snapped clear in half. Just goes to show that you should be carefull when routing, especially with very small bits, had this been a brand new bit i would be royaly *non-impressed*.

high res pic 1 high res pic 2

how big is the bandsaw? if you end up replacing the motor i would suggest buying something a bit more powerfull, maybe 1 or 1-1/2 hp,

sorry don't know much about the capacitor, might want to take it to an electrician if you're dad has any electrician friends

If you email warmouth directly they might be able to help you out.

gotoh was making them at one time, but if warmouth still has them they must have another source

just use oiled blood wood for the body... if you make it thin enough it'll still be light and strong as a brick...

hmm.... 15mm... that's kinda shallow isn't it GM?

do you mean this?

If you email warmouth directly they might be able to help you out.

that's killer, can't wait to see the headstock, that will reallly bring the whole look together, amazing detail so far!

Is there a reason the Ibanez joints look like that? Structural integrity maybe?

functionality / playability

i came up with a similar item, althoug mine was just a radius'ed peice of mdf with a slot.... it was just designed to hold the fret while i nipped and grinded the tang, where yours can do a bit more.

little fret holder peice...

i can see why GF would recommend the tang nipper though, i spent over an hour trimming the tangs perfectly so they would sit properly on a bound neck, so the tang nipper in effect would have almost paid for it's self there in one job, i guess it depends on how picky you are about getting that tang removed "perfectly" flat with the bottom of the crown.

i am fortunet enough to have broadband internet, but i'm still against large banners and such in sig's, anything that takes up space and adds to scrolling time isn't good when you're on an info forum.

even though both computers in my house are on the same shared broadband, the computer upstairs being much older took quit a bit longer to load the pages because of all the large graphics.... so they still play a role even if you have HSI but have a slow computer.

the size of the bit is throwing me off, is it 1/2" ?

less typing, more pics

that's what i thought, with some jewlers files you could flatten the main part of the nut out, (use guages to check your work) then, a little round jewler file to touch up the 4 string slots. But that's alot of work... might take you less time to just replace the fretboard with a 10" if you're having compatibily issues.

can we say BUMP?????????? did you ever do that guitar brian?

Well, still trying to pay the last of my bills, so i put the last of my items on ebay with no reserve, bidding starts at 0.99$

Chrome SPEEDLOADER ,complete kit for a new or existing guitar!

The other three items are here, grab the deal while they're here

Krazyderek Ebay Auctions

Ok i still have some stuff left to sell

Bridges:

Floyd speedloader chrome, complete boxed unit, 12" nut, all parts incl, 2 sets of 25-1/2" scale strings 190$ shipped!

Floyd LEFTY gold, complete boxed unit, R2 nut, all parts incl 180$ shipped!

Amps:

Marshall MG100 head 350$ shipped!

Carvin v412-c 200W angled cabinet 300$ + shipping

I beleive they're about the same, although i've always thought that the 1/8x3/8 rods offer the best stiffness as they're taller, but the 0.200x1/4 rods are required if you're doing a thin neck (not as tall) , but also require the special stew mac router bit.

oh and just incase you're wondering... 18" is the only size that will fit a guitar neck.. 24" is for a baritone, or bass...

i don't think i could have said it better DaveQ, although i seem to have one constant, the higher output the better, cause you can always turn it down a bit or roll back the drive on your amp, but adding drive with the EMG preamp booster or a overdrive pedal before the amp adds more hiss to pickups...

might be faster and cheaper to make your own body instead of trying to track down the right body... with the right pocket.... that happens to be the shape you want. Provided you have the tools to make a body.