krazyderek

those screws adjust the height of the bridge, and that is determined by the action on the neck(space between strings and the fretboard-lower action is easier to play), so the bridge has to be at a certain level so the strings are playable on the neck. You probably have a bit of room to play with, if you find with the right action the bridge is to low to allow any trem work, then you can lower each saddle onto the bridge a bit then increase the height of the bridge to compensate and that may give it some more room, but then you may have 12 little adjustment screws digging into your palm.

honestly, one of the main recommendations we give out here alot when people are starting with a guitar... is have the bridge and neck in your hands before you do anything else.. cause then you know what you have to accomodate/design around in the body.

if it's a fairly even edge, glue some scrap wood on there and re-route, and use a template this time !

here's the auction GF was talking about http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...me=STRK:MEWA:IT

I decided not to go with it, i'm going to laminate a beam and make my own from scratch too

i've heard a couple of people *cough* bash poplar... then the other day i noticed that steve morse uses that wood on his signature music man custom guitar.... makes you wonder hunh?

i'd say mahogany body maybe closer to what you're looking for rather then basswood, but i think you're asking for a neck wood? poplar is kinda risky... basswood... well good luck (i've tried), maple is the standard for many guitars and may be your best bet.

yes i included tools, although they're one time only, and kinda deveating from the question sorry.... they're all things i've had to get specifically for guitars.... from fret slotting saws, specialty tools like fret files, and ground sanding bars. to basic wood working tools that where first required like the 18" bandsaw (resawing tops, cutting out any body shape with no hang ups), 12-1/2" planer (planing blanks AFTER glued up, should have baught bigger), 4" jointer (should have baught bigger)... etc.... etc...

materials for the actual guitar though... generaly 1000-1200$ (750-900$us) for a good guitar with a floyd, gotoh tuners, a good set of dimarzio or emg's and either clear or a solid colour finish (i don't do my own painting, have yet to meet that challenge), and made from some nice woods ( i get to hand pick pretty much any wood from my exotic hardwood heaven store down the road )

easily 2000$ +

I need some sort of a volume box to balance the 2 cabs i used with my tube head. I use a peavey 412ms and a marshall 1960a, the marshall is way louder.

The marshall is 8 ohms and the peavy when in mono is 16 ohms....

So unless someone knows how to rewire the peavey to 8 ohms i just need the specs on a little volume box to turn down the marshall cab slightly..

ideas?

a really sharp chisel.... then what asm said?

ROUTERS

Plunge, pro, fast depth adjustment to preset depths, con: you'rs is good.

NECK SHAPING

for spokeshav , pro: fast wood remover, con: can cause tear out or bumps if used incorrectly or on certain grains.

Sander, pro, smooth accurate wood removal, con:lot's of dust, vacum needed for safe breathing.

something like that?

straightedge, sure just get a metal meter (or yard) stick.

i'm sorry but a "yard stick" is not a straight edge, a straight edge is a straight edge, very few rulers, even the nice steel rules are made that way.. i have a nice steel ruler that is close but i just use it for ruff situations, for checking necks and such you need an actual straight edge...

ON EBAY THEY GO!!!!

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...&sort=3&rows=50

LAST CHANCE!!!

i was just talking to lex over email thru another of his old ones and it's him alrighty

well the jaws are 159$ with the caul... so unless you can magically turn that 100$ into 200$ forget that and get a 2$ hammer. If i where you i'd get the fingerboard pre-slotted and pre-radiused, saves you time and money in tools.

this is probably what i'd do if i were you

guaged saw to cut the nut slots (also add your choice of a nut to that order)

the leveler, fretwire, fingerboard (pre slotted, radiused to 12") is pretty self explanitory

and the radius block to make sure you keep that radius after fretting.

then you have a couple bucks left to cover shipping.

Opinions might differ though, that's just what i'd get..

EDIT: ah yes and you need 6 feet of wire, not 4

A biscuit jointer simply cuts aligned slots in panel edges for biscuits to facilitate glue-up. It won't actually mill the edge of a board straight like a table jointer.

like he said..... although if this is your first time doing a neck thru this can take some of the frusteration out of clamping the wings, if you have access to one give it a try but i wouldn't go out of my way to buy one.

look for a better router

look at the side of your guitar, look at how much wood is under the fingerboard? does the fingerboard look like it's sitting right on top of the guitar body? or can you see a bit of a shelf from the neck that it's sitting on to raise it up a bit from the body?

This manual comes with the fender floyd's it gives diagrams how to convert a strat to a floyd strat.

Floyd rose installation manual

Ibanezrules.com is one the only places i know of to get an ibanez bridge aftermarket

There's also an Edge Trem Manual here, i think it's on ibanezrules.com but i couldn't find a direct link so i just uploaded it.

Both manuals show the correct measurements for the shelf you need to install a locking nut.

fingerboard height in relation to the top of the guitar...

i've seen some guitars that don't have a crown on the fretwire, it's just a strip of metal the same width as the fret slot.. that is probably the thinnest you'll find, although i'm not sure about sources for that or the exact measurement,

going on ebay tomorow

Hey, clearing out some stuff, it'll go on ebay if there's no bites here, thought i'd give you guys first dibs though, has to go to pay for tuition this term

Pickups:

Dimarzio: 45$ each + shipping

Steve's special black non-F -sold

Steve's special white F-spaced -sold

Blaze 7 Bridge white, brand new, wire's never even stripped -sold

Blaze 7 Bridge black -sold

PAF non-F -sold

Other: make an offer

Mexico Fender Tele Neck pickup -sold

Bridges:

Floyd speedloader chrome, complete boxed unit, 12" nut, all parts incl, 2 sets of 25-1/2" scale strings 190$ shipped!

Floyd LEFTY gold, complete boxed unit, R2 nut, all parts incl 180$ shipped!

Amps:

Marshall MG100 head 350$ shipped!

Carvin v412-c 200W angled cabinet 300$ + shipping

Included shipping is standard 6-8day air for anywhere in northamerica!

I'll ship anywhere Post, UPS, Fedex, or others will deliver, your choice of shipper, though postal is easiest for me.

I take cheque, money order, postal money order, or paypal.

EDIT: Shipping is from canada, most small items will go for 3-5$ postal, please provide state you want shipped to aswell as zip

EBAY selling listhttp://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...&sort=3&rows=50

it's roughly 3 years old, possibly more, but i've only just started really using it in the past year, the locking switch broke about a year ago

If a product is built well it shouldn't need a warantee, it's a plus, but you also don't want to spend half your time waiting to get the router back from the repair or warantee dept.

I would not suggest getting a craftsman router, and i know at least one other person on this forum that will agree with me there.

Maybe mine is just an older model, but there's just way to much plastic, to date i've had to epoxy the collet locking switch (push and slide switch), and the bracket that holds in the collet in the middle of the router on the bottom.

After looking at the porter cable routers at home depot i was very happy with the aparant quality. less lose fitting parts.... and it's made out of metal, not plastic.

I've heard of other brands that are higher priced, but for the money porter cable appears to have the best bang for buck.

meep meep meep meep!