loudandproud

Gentlemen im going to have to get some dimensions from you guys. Please tell me the 24th fret harmonic (dead smack dab middle of the neck pickup) distance from the very end of the neck. Very end! Another measurement. The bridge pickup (dead center) to the very end of the neck. Thanks guys, these measurements are for my tele project. I will keep you all posted on progress.

i am in the process of building a head cabinet. I will post picks when done.

Would anyone be interested in building me a les paul neck, 1960s tenon style. gibson scale. Mahogany neck and rosewood fret board. How much would you be willing to build it for?

I would smack a venner and do a transparent black top. Black back and sides and put some faux flame maple binding.

leave the edges natural and stain the top. I love natural binding like that

cool concept. tunes on the fly

some are airdried, other kiln dried. This was kiln dried. Im assuming if this was kiln dried that it is sufficient, correct? Around %6-8? ← 12.50 +2.30 handling is not bad. A couple things that would make this different from other sets. 1- they have not sureface sanded the wood, they state rough sawn or skip plane. 2- Kiln dried does not mean 6-8%, Kiln dried lumber can be 10-12%(just depends). Drying=time=cost. 3-That is a nice set you purchased, most of the sets are not quite that nice. So one way or the other the price is good, if the piece works for you. Count on some loss of thickness during surface sanding (which may not be an issue, but takes time). If it is still drying a bit and requires flattening (not hard to do just takes a little time, but must be done in order to surface sand without losing a lot of material). After it is surfaced a 1/4" set can be flattened when you glue and press it. I think they sell a lot of rough cut sets, and at very good prices. Peace,Rich ← it will be a 1/4 inch peice. Think that there is enough to be surfaced? 5/16 to 1/4? I might have to take of a little bit more than that, ← If it is flat and you are cleaning up saw blade scratches (1/32" is enough per. side). If it is skip planed sometimes you can get a couple deeper digs (but that is probably only on one surface). You should be fine. A drum sander or wide belt would clean them up in a heartbeat. Peace,Rich ← sweet im exicted. I am really getting ready for this. January is when im starting starting my project most likely. Ive been planning and reseaching ( noobs evidently seem to bug the crap out of some around here) since may. Thanks for all your help.

some are airdried, other kiln dried. This was kiln dried. Im assuming if this was kiln dried that it is sufficient, correct? Around %6-8? ← 12.50 +2.30 handling is not bad. A couple things that would make this different from other sets. 1- they have not sureface sanded the wood, they state rough sawn or skip plane. 2- Kiln dried does not mean 6-8%, Kiln dried lumber can be 10-12%(just depends). Drying=time=cost. 3-That is a nice set you purchased, most of the sets are not quite that nice. So one way or the other the price is good, if the piece works for you. Count on some loss of thickness during surface sanding (which may not be an issue, but takes time). If it is still drying a bit and requires flattening (not hard to do just takes a little time, but must be done in order to surface sand without losing a lot of material). After it is surfaced a 1/4" set can be flattened when you glue and press it. I think they sell a lot of rough cut sets, and at very good prices. Peace,Rich ← it will be a 1/4 inch peice. Think that there is enough to be surfaced? 5/16 to 1/4? I might have to take of a little bit more than that,

some are airdried, other kiln dried. This was kiln dried. Im assuming if this was kiln dried that it is sufficient, correct? Around %6-8?

$12.50, does that seem about right for this bookmatched peice? Ebay listing

that isnt exactly what i wanted to hear. Did it sound like crap because of the wood or because you butched up the scale length?

i havent tap test my wood yet. I stilll have found a real nice piece, i guess i will have to start.

my god... i want that finish so bad. Look at that beautiful neck. And that top, its gourgous.

Ok, tonally speaking. Is there an advantage to a one peice body over a three piece body (wing, center, wing, with a maple cap VS. Solid body with maple cap.) the reason i ask is, I have two options of mahogany for my telecaster. three quartersawn peices of mahogany glue together with a bookmatched maple top. or a flat sawn piece of mahogany with a bookmatched maple top.

do this:

i would fill it in and do a black finish on it.

what a duzzy

Does it really matter if the mahogany you use is 200 years old or 10. Id imagine if it is dried properly it should make a difference. What do you think.

I voted mesa , but i really want a BOGNER UBERSCHALL

if it has or will have a natural finish i've always prefered rings and a "hipshot style" bridge but if it's painted for some reason i prefer the pickguard option. ← it is going to be a stained ruby finish.

On my tele. Dual Humbucking Rings with a Hipshot style bridge. Or a tele pickguard with humbucker in neck and telebridge with humbucker?

You are in trouble.... Read Pic rules.

I have not had much experiance with different types of mahogany. What tone differences would there be between Hondurun, African and Phillipean...ianish mahogany. Im sure the grain and color is different but what about its tone?

Ok, so im taking some maple down to 1/4 for a top. I tried a scrap peice at first and my planer tore the hell out of the figure. The blades ARE VERY SHARP. So no it is not that. Do you all have any tips on getting the wood to plane smoothly without tearing out the figure? Thanks, jeff