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chunkielad

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Everything posted by chunkielad

  1. Isn't strapping bits together 'BUILDING' and manufacturing 'MAKING' Maybe were all just using the wrong words? I can build a guiltar the same way I build a house - I don't make the bricks or cut the joists necessarily. The same way I don't make the neck. If I made a guitar or manufactured one then EVERYTING should be made by my fair hand. Where does this all stop? Should I have made my own pickups, trem/bridge, tuning head, ferrules etc as well? It's all personal taste- I will be proud of my project when it's done - made or bought neck doesn't matter to me. I'll have a guitar I BUILT and it will look how I want it to and play how I want it to - oh and sound how I want it to - that's what matters to me.
  2. And there it is - the statement I've been waiting for. I wouldn't call myself a luthier as I've not by any means got enough skill to do so but a guitar builder I AM! Routing isn't easy for someone who's never done it before - heck i've messed up my pine prototype only today! Making accurate templates needs a certain amount of skill. Building the neck isn't the be all and end all. I'm making a body for this guitar because that's where i feel my skill set lies. When I'm more confident, when i've played with a bit more wood, I may have a go at aneck. This doesn't make me a crap builder, not a builder or anything else but cautious. And you redeemed yourself there - that's the best thing said here yet. We all should be having fun WHATEVER parts we build!
  3. I think that the shaping would be the scariest bit for me. The whole fretting thing is OK, I'd just be woried that I'd shape too thin and expose the truss rod or make a gouge that's irrepaiable - wasting wood and time.
  4. How GREAT is it to answer!!!! Marvelous!!! I can understand why you don't want to try it that way mate! Manthat''s not an easy option is it? Maybe there's a plastic look alike that can be vacuum formed?
  5. That looks great fella! Shame it's not tough - my samples with the white polish seem to get a tougher finnish to them than I expected. The danish looks gorgeous though!
  6. I'm getting good results on scrap with the White Polish - it isn't filling the pores and grain quite enough for my liking but it's going to be reasonable. I don't want to sand the sycamore too much and kill the flame - my other concern now is where to get a decent dye from over here as I've had to use food colouring for my tests and wouldn't like to use that on the final guitar!
  7. Here here! Well said. ALL these guitars are cool though - I haven't seen a crappy project from this site yet!
  8. That's what we call a flush trim bit - used to trim laminate off kitchen worktops. I'm not sure a pine guitar would A: Sound very good or B: stay in one piece very long! I know what you're saying but i can use the prototype for future templates (chop it into slices) so my master doesn't get damaged - I plan on making a few of these as my local guitar shop said he likes the design - if all goes well, I'll do one and he says i can put it in his window - if it sells he takes a % if not, it sits there! I also want to make sure that (seeing as i've done little wood work before) each process is in an order where it doesn't affect the next - eg Routing something and leaving a weak bit to rout around on the next item etc.
  9. all marvlous but Doug got my vote for the detail. It isn't actually to my tase but the the craftsmanship on that guitar isoutstanding! The others are great but Doug's had the edge. I reall don't care if it was done by him or someone else - it's the Guitar of the month not Craftsman of the month so in my opinion, the final guitar is what matters. I won't be making the neck on my custom - doesn't make it a lesser guitar - probably a better one!
  10. Well, update time - I ordered my template router bit today and it'll be here Tuesday so.... I went to the wood shop and got some pine yesterday to make a prototype (thought it best as I've never done this before) and then made my template up today. I've used a product called dibond for the template it's acrylic sheet with aluminium sandwiched on each side - I use it a lot for signs. It's as tuff as old boots but will cut with a jig saw and then it's easily fileable to shape. Sorted all that and took it to wood merchant who's gonna bandsaw it for me monday. Can't wait as if it goes well and the template route works well, I'll do the mahogany one on Tuesday.
  11. Ooops - didn't notice the URL - he does give them some what of a battering though does our Steve! Is the thickness an issue though?
  12. http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...age/Vampyre.zip This is a zip file with a 5 and 4 string version in - the saddle is the same for both as I don't have the details of a 4 string version. (there's a corel draw, eps, ai and jpg of each). The neck joint (body section of it) is a total guess as I've never seen the back of one of these. I figured on an AANJ being doable if you wanted how I set it out. WARNING: I ain't gonna gurantee 100% perfection in this but they should be good enough. Don't come sueing me if aything goes wrong!! CHeck EVERYTHING twice before you cut.
  13. That looks like it's cracked mate - is that because of the AANJ being too thin or something? How thin can the AANJ go?
  14. I'll have a look at the vid soon - you need a copy carver too!
  15. Please do post the reply - it's an interesting one this! I reckon you may be best making and MDF copy of your guitar and using that to make the thing on - this way the air will get sucked through it and the material can be trimmed BEFORE putting it onto the guitar - a bit of adhesive and away you go! I suppose that if you only do one, then you won't need to go that far - you could make a load of different ones for one guitar and change them when you get bored!
  16. Excellent idea - I'd assumed a carve top and gone off on a tangent! Sounds like a plan mate!
  17. Spraying is something I do a lot - I just don't want the standard high gloss shiny mirror surface on this guitar. I think I'll go with this White polish and see what happens. Cheers for all the help guys.
  18. Scale length is 34" (found on web) so I can sort it now - I'll only be able to do the front view though as i've no details of a side view - will send when done.
  19. No mate - I haven't seen an AANJ at all - just a couple of pics on here. If I can get away with the body section (where the heel fits) being 20mm I think I can sort something quite nice - my timber is 40mm thick and the neck gets recessed 19mm so just about right.
  20. I went to my local airgun shop and he said he's not had any Tru Oil for ages and now just uses teak oil. I went to the local hardware store and got hold of some White Polish. It seems to be like french polish with Bleached shellac. I had a try and it's great stuff BUT will take about 300 coats to fill the grain so - where do I get a grain filler from which will allow me to stain after and still be even and not affect the colour afterwards? Or do i stain, grain fill and then coat?
  21. I'm not sure on that material but if it has any plastic properties at all, heat it and I reckon it'll be just fine IMHO. As far as joining, you'll have to make a back piece and a front piece then either glue them on and trim the two edges to meet square (absolute nightmare) or maybe a trim tape around the join or even trim as best you can, fill any gaps and do a little burst around the edge. If you make a MDF copy of the guitar you could do loads and start selling these on ebay!! Hmmmm new project!
  22. http://www.music-town.de/onlineshop/herste...reltd_5_big.jpg I found this on th' 'tinternet and will gladly draw it out tomorrow for you if you want - find out the nut to 12th fret length and I'll do it to scale too. What format do you want it in? I can do an .ai, .eps or any rasterised version (jpg/bmp) I like that and will make one eventually (or a tribute to it with changes) so i don't mind tracing it now and giving you a copy. PM me if you want it doing.
  23. You can see on the second one how far it goes in - I didn't think No1 would be doable but I had to ask just incase. What sort of depth are we looking at for the heel. I want to make it as thin as possible i.e. an AANJ.
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