bombershredder

I could be wrong but I THINK rubberwood, and that's probably the slang for it, is a soft wood and most likely isn't what your axe is.  That would be like making a guitar out of pine.  LOL

But then again, I am NO expert

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Rubberwood is very soft. It is crap.

I have a Japanese Squire made from rubberwood i think. What is rubberwood? Is it as bad as plywood?

I've been wanting to build a Van halen guitar to play some Van Halen on. It'd be cooler with a floating trem and black hardware.

I have a licensed floyd. It's part of my Fender Stagemaster Series Guitar. I'll be doing that guitar up with new paint a new fretboard. It'll be my first project. I'll be practicing on scrap and then moving onto the guitar and i want my licensed floyd to look neat and clean as well. it's kinda scratched up. I don't wanna spend too much money on this project and i don't wanna waste a new floyd for THIS Guitar. What could i possibly do to the trem to get the results i want?

Hmm i'll order the videos, try for a week and then start with the video.

Thanks. I get what you're saying about blade lenght and the 'tang' of the frets. I did see the making a strat tutorial and it showed me and helped me with what you ere saying. Thanks once again Guitarfrenzy and you too Sweedishluthier. Soapbarstrat you're prob right but i will try a bit on my own(on scrap) and read on the internet and then go ahead with the videos. It'll be a better way to go about learning.Thanks.

Thanks so much. Just the kind of stuff i needed.

I found this very resourceful page on choosing a drill.Drill Page

Theres nothing on the site for noobs, beginners concerning tools and how to go about choosing tools. The tools features and the options one has when purchasing these tools, the colour, corded/cordless, etc. There should be some pinned type discussion on tools as such if there isn't one already.

Again, thanks.

I now understand why the fretboard radius helps. I understand how it helps keep the hand relaxed.

Thanks Guitarfrenzy you've been a great help.

A wizard neck proprably.

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Yes. That's it.

I hate Wizard necks, they are so damn flat and your thumb feels really uncomfortable sliding on a flat plank and it feels even more horrible when you have to do some chord work.

Funny thing is some people find those Ibanez Wizard necks amazing.

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What are the prestige necks? Which is the neck on the RG2020TB

Yes i can notice the radiuc/curve at the area where the board meets the locking nuts. Thanks.

Onto tnext question what does the radius have to do in setting action?

i should just set the action aroun 1.2 and 1.3 on each string? it don't matter or play an imp role do it? I'm guessing not. So i'll set the action and then if the action is the same on all the strings and set properly the strings will be following the radius right? BUt i'm still not getting how it improves the playing and it is SO MILD!

It seems to be radiusing more towards the thicker strings, even on my acoustic under the nut..

What so you use to measure the action?

Well i don't know what it is, but i've seen pictures and the stuff its used for and what it can be used for. As far as i' concerned i'm aware of two types which are considered economical i think. Theres one i'm not sure what it is but it's more like a drill and you kinda havta hold it and the other one has a square base to it.

Also I don't understand how the cavities come out so smooth, I saw a picture of a cavity just started with a pin router and it was so messy and uneven how is it that they are smoothened, a sander? Thanks. I'll go and try and find the pictures and be more specific.

I have a few questions about slotting, sawing and hammering frets.

After slotting comes sawing. Okay i go ahead and saw em frets. Next is the fretwire. Ignore the radiusing of the fretwire and cutting and anything else. My question isn't concerned with any sanding and radiusing.

Firstly what all saws can be used for fretting. I don't wanna order any essential fretting kits and stuff man. I think a gents saw can be used? and?

Secondlyo many saws all diff are used for sawing doesn't the blade need to have a uniform thickness? I don't understand how it is possible to saw the frets and then just hammer them in what if the sawed slot is too thick or thin? The deepness has to be checked naturally with a card or wtvr. But what about the thickness and width of the fret?

I just saw and hammer eh? no measurements?

I won't know this uintil i order a book and try it i know, but i;m really curious so i'm sorry for stupid questions or useless questions or well for many more questions still to come!

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....seaction=radius

I'm gonna havta build a few and see what these guys are talking about.

How difficult would a Compound Radius Fingerboard be to build?

Also i still don't Understand, WHY, it would be more comfortable, a radius on the fingerboard. How would the radius help with the thicker and higher strings and also the middle strings which are near the origin of the radius you know from where it starts to radius the centre the G and D would probably be there. And the E 's would be on the more convex area..right? SO how is that helping your fingers Also why is it called a radius? Isn't a radius half diameter??lol..

I'm talking about the fingerboard radius.  Classical guitars and some old acoustics don't have a radius on the fingerboard and is perfectly flat, which some people love.  One of the best playing guitars I ever played was by a local man who build an acoustic with no radius, the action was unreal and no buzzing, which leads me to believe that the flatter the radius, the lower you can go without buzzes.  I'm actually going to build an acoustic next year that has no radius because I liked it so much.  The back of the neck is shaped differently and doesn't have to be a perfect radius.  Most are asymmetrical shaped, and are contoured for ease of play.

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SO, the ibanez Steve vai designed flatback neck isn't a complete radius? Like the kind i have on my RG2020TB(2001 i think). The fretboard must be radiused i guess, it doesn't feel radiused or it isnt as evident as a pickup being present on the guitar! I guess i'll have to actually build and play these things to know. Thanks for the info.

It may not feel like it's radiused, but an RG neck is radiused even though it's a flatter radius than most (16", 17" range).  The purpose for a radius is so you hands are comfortable when playing chords.  If you have too small of a radius like the older Fender guitars (7-1/4") play great for chording around the 1st fret to 12th, but when you play lead the radius would make your string bends fretout bad, so they switched to a flatter (9-1/2") radius to solve the problem and was a nice compromise.  A Gibson guitar has a (12") radius and it's personally my favorite to play on as it's perfect for chords and lead in my opinion.  Warmoth uses a compound radius (10" to 16") since it makes chording easier in the lower fret range, and playing lead on the upper frets with the 16" radius is a breeze.  So it's kinda the best of both worlds.. lol

Here's a good link on Ibanez neck specs from Jemsite.

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Are you talking about the neck or the fretboard?

Also, there is a difference between a neck's radius and the fretboard's radius. When I read the thread's title, I couldn't imagine how a neck could be flat but now I understand. 

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LOL!

I'm just talking about radius in relation to fretboard and Neck. I'm very confused.

I wanna build a Baritone seven to play endless Death Metal so i'm trying to learn and read and stuff and whatever i can't understand i try to look up n stuff but what im trying to say where im asking about radiusing is, you have these radius blocks for fretboards and stuff. So i was trying to learn and calculate through reading the tutorials on this site( Thanks for that!) and the first thing in the fretting tutorial(fretting simplified) is a radius fretting caul and a matching radius block i skipped and ignored them read the tutorial and picked up my guitar and i couldn't feel no radius on the fretboard but like uncle j pointed out i should use a straightedge and...

But besides that what do you mean by neck radius and also if theres anything on fretboard radius too.. thanks for all your help.

I'm New to stuff, so be nice! If i sound like an idiot let me know and let me also know why.

No sarcastic comments or jokes or i'll start to cry.

I appreciate the help.

I just don't get the radiused fretboard/neck? concept. I did check some of it out at ther warmoth site and whatever else i could with the search button but it ain't like google search you know. It doesn't even care what you type. It searches what it wishes for. I have no say in the matter

Coming to the point, My Rg's neck doesnt feel radiused, what should i do?

Hi, what's an airbrush and what is its purpose?

e-------------------------5----

b--------5---------------------

g-5-7-8---8-7----5-7-8---8-7




e------8--11---

b---10------10-

g-9------------9




e------5-8

b----------

g-5-8-----

The first is alternate picked in 4's or 6's either way.

The second is 3 down 3 up using sweep and the last is your wish.

Pretty darn hip.

Hi I'm trying to understand how pickups work. So far i can understand there is a magnet, steel strings some winding wire and a magnetic filed and a pull on the steel strings and humbuckers have less hum and noise due to the presence of two single coils which cancel each other out? I Don't understand.

Nah, I don't get it.  Your tab isn't aligned properly in the TrueType font that the forum uses.

If you type {code} before the 'tab' and then {/code} after, replacing the curly brackets with square ones,  you'll be able to format in monotype.

Greg

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I'll just explain it using a system i know.

It's called the number system . So if i say 6.1 it means 6th string 1st fret. The lick is basically played using alternate picking and involves 3 note per string +1 more note after crossing over to another string.(the famous paul gilbert exercise?)

3.5-3.7-3.8-2.5

those are the 4 notes. The lick/pattern is

3.5-3.7-3.8-2.5-3.8-3.7..and repeat.

after you get that the second time you play this you just replace 2.5 with 1.5 so you end up skipping two strings. You could even add and start on 4.7 which is the note A and then play uptil 3.8 using legato and back to A-- and legato back/continue on to 2.5 and then back to A and legato/continue on back to 1.5 etc. Just these notes with string skipping and keeping 3.5-3.7-(3.8) as the center for the idea you can use various techniques and really use this idea.Obv when you use leagato you pick the first note of every new string only. But when you pick 1.5 and 2.5 you really gotta whack em and make them stand out from 3.5-3.7-(3.8). You gotta basically ROLL 3.5-3.7-3.8 and whack the ones i mentioned.

I first got this of Gilbert in some guitar clinic in seoul videos i downloaded. Really cool. Obv i can't play it Yet. but still groovy. It goes well with the string skipped dimini arp and then you can just throw in 3.8 and go bluesy..heres the dimini arp..

3.5-3.8-1.5-1.8 YOu can obv sequence it any way you like but those are the notes.

I hope you understood what i meant.

The only downside is that it's a cookbook of how to play better, but doesn't really talk much about what to play. 

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

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Why don't u sing something and play it?

Loved it man. Good licks. Specially the one associated with 'D'. i think its the paul gilbertish blues pickin thing. thoughinstead of skipping the string the first part should be..

e -5

b--------5 etc. and then

g-5-7-8 5-7-8

Some really cool stuff.

understand?

No we're not neighbours. I live in India. In New Delhi. So for me to continue with guitar making I am going to have to order stuff and pay a good 50-100$ for shipping. Concerning wood and woodworking tools there is plenty available here. I'll prob just have to pay for the books and fretworking tools and little stuff like that. My point is that I guess I am gonna first have to search around here and see what are the wood glues available here and then compare them to what you are reccomending and then choose an equivalent for bondo and titebond. For you i guess its easily available, so thats why i asked this....

....Also could someone please talk alittle about the glues and help me out there so i can know. So when i go shopping i have to search for a wood glue? What else should i know?.....

I'm totally clueless i know for sure bondo and titebond aren't avaiable here and i don't want to use something weak andwrong and stuff. Also maybe i'm making it more complicated than it is. Maybe wood glue is just standard everywhere and a simple wood glue would do. I guess its prob the epoxy based filler i'm gonna have trouble finding also because i don't know where i can find them. Mahogany is used in making furniture. So I'll just go and look around places like that. I might even do a small woodworking/furniture making course or workshop just to get the hang of things or i needn't also but it sure would help. But for that epoxy based filler i don't know where to look and what it's used for and same with paint and stuff. I prob don't need to order a spray gun man. I am pretty sure i can get a decent spray gun here. Even paint. I've read on this forum that paint used on cars n stuff can be used. But again my knowledge is just surface and ain't very deep and once i know more i'll prob be able to say. But if you have anything that i can relate to information wise. It just doesn't do it for me when you say ..USE BONDO. NOw you know why. Thanks for all your replies and the tutorial Edgeltar.

Where do you live UncleJ?

What glue exactly is to be used for this? Is the same glue used while doing other stuff in making a guitar. Also what is bondo? its a body filler but what is that what is it used for? I want to know because i won't be able to purchase the products mentioned such as bondo but i'm sure there are substitutes.

EDIT(AGAIN! Yes I don't think things through!): Shouldn't there be enough glue while gluing theblock in that it smears out and then it is cleared and then the epoxy based filler be used. Also what is an epoxy based filler and what is it used for mainly and where would i find it if i went shopping? Also could someone please talk alittle about the glues and help me out there so i can know. So when i go shopping i have to search for a wood glue? What else should i know?

Thanks!

EDIT: In the following tutorial http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm for converting from trem to hardtail the guy says-

But after you prime it you will still notice those nasty lines which will show up in your finish.

The solution is easier then you think, route a small groove along the edge of the entire joint and mix up a batch of epoxy based filler, since epoxy will dry a lot harder ( while still effected by heat will not show as easy).

So isn't this the right procedure but ALSO glue the block in?

I'm gonna be doing the same thing on my guitar but i have a few questions. Mines H-S-S too. This is the first guitar I'm gonna be modding and refreshing with a new fretboard and stuff. It if comes out good i'm gonna equip it with a good quality humbucking pickup instead of the stock pickup that was in the guitar. Anyway-

The pickup cavity needs to be filled with a block of wood like in the tutorial for converting your bridge(trem cavity is being filled). Shouldn't the block of wood be glued into the cavity?