dawnofzion

Well I did some rough shaping of the neck last night. Did this with the rasp in about an hour. I'm gonna scrape it smooth tonight.

Looks great...I have always like the DY jems. But I hate the pink they have on them. but yours looks good.

The fretboard is from stew mac....and you might be right about the radius idea. I was comparing this 12" radius to my '62 reissue strat that has a 9.5" radius. but this still feels thicker. Maybe once I have the neck shaped it will feel better.

well I did some work on the fretboard. I still need to do some scraping and sanding to get rid of some of the glue line...but overall I am pleased with how it is turning out. The only thing is the fretboard itself seems a tad too thick. I would like to think it down some if I could. When comparing it to my strat and tele, this fretboard is at least a full 1/16" thicker if not more. Should I make a radiused block and thin it down? I can't think it down any from the back because the hotrod is routed so deep. Any suggestions? http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4686.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4685.jpg fretboard thickness http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4683.jpg

yeah once I had it all glued up...I thought that exact same thing. Oh well..it is my first time, so I'm learning as I go.

Well I started my very first build about a month or so ago and I haven't started a thread yet, so I thought I would go ahead and do so. The build is going to be my version of the Squier super-sonic. I am doing a String thru with a TOM. It will have EMG 81-85 or 81-60 combo. not sure yet. I have the 81 but not the other yet. This is what I hope it will look like. i started with a alder blank and cut out the body. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret.../IMG_4575-1.jpg Routed the pickups http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4585.jpg Shaped the body and rounded the edges. I had a slip up with the router and clipped the back of the rear pickup route and took out a large chunk.....but it will be covered up with a pickguard. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...g/IMG_46392.jpg a quick mockup. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4655.jpg Routed for the truss rod. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4661.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4663.jpg I am using a 14.5" truss rod because the 18" rod was just a little too long for the neck. This guitar is a shortscale 24.07" Neck rough cut out. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4664.jpg When I was routing the neck to size with the template bit....I had major tear out on the headstock. So I had to try and salvage it. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4670.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4671.jpg Here is what I ended up with.....the glue line isn't as visible in person. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4674.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4675.jpg Trimmed the headstock down to size http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4677.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4679.jpg And here is where I'm at now...I glued on the fingerboard. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78/stret...ng/IMG_4681.jpg I am using a 25.5" board and cutting the first fret off to give me a 24.07" scale. I did this because I wanted a pre-slotted and radiused fingerboard and you can't get them in 24" So this was my best option. Well that is where it stands today....more to come soon! This is my first build so I am learning ALOT as I go. Oh and I should add that I had help from Mikro on planing and cutting out the body. Thanks!

Yeah. Just make sure you get the round toothpicks not the square ones. I glued them on, trimmed them down, then cleared it all. Actually works pretty good.

I made a cigar box guitar not too long ago...But I made mine a little more traditional with toothpick frets and a poplar board.

I am about to route for my stew mac hot rod truss rod. My question is, should the route for the end of the truss rod that is a block (not the end with the adjustment), should this end of the route by squared off exactly the size of the truss rod. Or should I just leave it rounded from the router bit?

I assume no one on this board has a mustang or super-sonic that has this font? If so, could you take a high resolution extreme closeup of that decal? I would greatley appreciate it.

These are the clostest two that I can find. Both have way too many tails.

I am wondering if there is a font file for the mustang, bronco, super-sonic, ect. I am wanting to make a custom decal for my super-sonic project i'm working on. I'm sure everyone knows which font i'm talking about....this is what I'm looking for.. I can't seem to find a font that has those little trails that are behind each letter.

Has anyone tried this bit from Lowes? It says that it is in stock at my local store so I might go get it since it si only $15 http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none I am in need of a pattern bit and I'm on a tight budget. This would save me $10 bucks from stewmac.

I am trying to find a bearing kit to add to a 3/8" straight router bit to make a template bit. All i can find locally is the end bearing on the straight bits. I would like to find one in a store locally rather than have to pay for shipping. Does anyone know where I can find something like this? I would like to be able to use the bits I already have rather than having to buy really expensive bits. I am kind of a tight budget. Thanks in advance!

Did you sink the TOM so you would not have a neck angle? How does that work out? How does it look once the TOM is installed? I am thinking about doing this on my current project, I was just worried about how it will look once it is installed.

I have decided to not use CF rods. I think the neck will be fine without it. I also have recieved confirmation that this will be ok.

I wasn't planning on attaching the truss rod to anything. I was planning on routing a straight route, and stopping before the nut, then drilling from the headstock. OR should I just route all the way through where the nut will be? What size strip of CF should I use? 1/4" x 3/16" x 18"?

If you read back a bit in this thread it was decided that the 18" truss rod would not fit into my neck because I am only doing 22 frets. Should I run 2 CF strips on each side of the truss rod?

Ok i have planning out my route for the truss rod and this is what I have come up with. Does this look correct?

ok I'm about to order the supplies to build my neck from stew mac. I am still undecided about the carbon fiber. Any suggestions on if it is needed or if I will be fine without the carbon fiber?

I have a 1/4" straight router bit. That was what I was planning on using. I have never routed for a truss rod before. Do I just route the length of the truss rod with the 1/4" bit and that is it? or is there a special way to route the end of the channel so the truss rod is fixed into place? also, where would I route for the CF strips? beside the truss rod in it's own channel? or do I extend the channel of the truss rod and put the carbon fiber at the bottom of the channel? Basically I am confused with the CF rods. I don't know where to put them, how much of it I would need. Would my neck warp and not work properly if I did not use the CF?

I still have not found a carbon fiber bar? Would it be a problem to build the neck without the CF bar? Can someone tell me how to route out for the truss rod? Should I use just a regular straight router big? I don't really want to buy a $25 bit that I will not use that often. So I was hoping to be able to use a straight bit that I already have. Does anyone have any pictures or drawings of how I should install the shorter 14.25" truss rod?

where do you get a CF bar at?

ok sounds good. I will just plan on using the 14.25" truss rod. Will the 14.25" truss rod not give me as much adjustability? Should I make is adjustable from the headstock or the bottom of the neck?

ok sounds good.