gilsolomon

Amazing guitar ... Something to aspire to. Could you upload a recording? Just to see if she's a beauty that sounds good too ...

Yeah I understood that one... I meant the other end.... The distance is measured to the posts themselfs and not the a parallel point on the center line right?

Hi Guys, I'm planning my next guitar (making CAD files since I'm laser-cutting plexiglass templates), It's going to be a hollowbody guitar. The body’s core will be made from American Swamp Ash, the top will be made from Brazilian flamed Imbuia, the neck will be made from African Mahogany and the fingerboard and binding will be made from Bloodwood (had a question about it a few days ago too ). So on to my question... The bridge I'll be using is a Gotoh TOM Bridge. I've been messing around with Stewmac's fret position calculator and couldn't understand something. The distance they give you there is from the middle of the nut's face to the middle of the bridge's post itself of the a parallel position on the middle line of the body? What is the recommended angle for the bridge? I saw some people put it 5 degrees some at 8... what would you say? Thanks

Nah man, this is too risky I don't want to run anything which is not dead accurate on the guitar itself. I don't trust my router. This is why I use the True Channel Jig for cutting the channel. I think I'll just go for beveling. Thanks anyway!

How do I do that? Do you by chance have a video or a tutorial that shows how to do it? The only thing I have that is long enough for that is a bass fingerboard... But how do I process it to be a straight binding? Thanks for the advice!

I thought about stacking as well but I planning on using Bloodwood bindings and I'm afraid in some places they would not look well enough and I'll also have to do it on both sides (I want to bind the back as well) so it's too much work and too risky.

Thanks !

I've finally finished a project (almost)... In the past I have completed a guitar and then broke it apart since I was not happy with the result. However on this one I'm absolutely satisfied with the sound quality and the beauty of the body. The guitar is playing and sounds great at the moment but I intend to change the neck due to comfort issues... The new neck is going to be made of my two favorite woods: African mahogany(Khaya) and Pau Ferro (fingerboard). The new headstock will also look different. To the specs then... The body is made of two-piece American Swamp Ash (I was looking for the chimey sounds provided by the swamp ash). The finish is three coats of Birchwood Casey Sealer&Filler and around ten to fifteen coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil (which were a joy to apply). The Tremolo is Gotoh Wilkinson Vs-100 with GraphTech Piezo saddles. The piezo saddles are connected to a GraphTech Advanced Acousti-Phonic system which operates simultaneously with the magnetic pickups. The magnetic pickups are Dimarzio Transition neck (neck) and Dimarzio Air Norton on (bridge) - By far the best bridge pickup I tried. Both are wired to a volume pot each (500K) and one push\pull tone for both(250K) which operates for coil-splitting. If you would like to see the build process you could look in my blog (the-masterpiece). When It's truly over (with the new neck) I'l post some high quality photos here.

Nope it's all in the level of thinking right now... I'm leaning towards beveling as well... Seems like the easiest solution...

Hi, I'm in the midst of starting a new build. I have a guitar body to build with Swamp Ash as the core wood and Imbuia as the top. I plan to bind it with Bloodwood bindings. However I have an issue to work on. My top is 5/16" thick and the bindings are 1/4" which makes the top thicker and the side of it would be visible. How do you suggest to cope with it? Thanks

Thanks !

Thanks !!!!

I'm located in Israel, We don't have any kind of the woods I mentioned. And in any case the wood here is never kiln dried which makes it very moist. I tried using local Korina wood once - due to the moisture in the body and the heat the finished body after a week or so had bubbles coming out of the finish :\ Sooooo I usually use imported woods

Hi guys, I'm currently working on a big guitar body made of swamp ash. It's 15*28" in size and I'm searching for a top made of a dark wood (Walnut\ Indian rosewood\ wenge). Does somebody know where I might be able to get a top wood (for a drop top) which is 28 inches long? If possible - as cheap as possible Thanks !

Yes. I did two layers of Z-Poxy as a prep for finishing (that I intend to sand the most of). Can the bubles be a result of the heat? (the room is very hot during the day) or maybe the wood is not dry enough?

Hi guys, one small question, After putting two layers of Epoxy I've let the boxy rest for about a week. I've noticed that the finish has some kind of bubble \ blows in the finish, what can be the cause of it? Thanks !

Thanks ! I tend to agree, Altough I have an avarage sized Honduras Mahogany body blank here which is havier than my Korina body. Well........that Korina body does have those big ol' holes in it. Which look nice. I've found Honduras Mahogany can vary widely in weight. My Korina is in the ballpark with the Afican Mahogany I've worked with if not just a little lighter, so I guess it falls in line with what Wes has found. I don't know why I expected it to be closer in weight to the Spanish cedar I just used which was by far the lightest body wood I've used so to this point. SR The holes are precisely for that I think they actually rub off something like a quarter of the total weight... Oh and by the way, I had to check... the body weighs 2.6 KGs as is (lets add some hardware and I think we'll be around 3 give or take). In any case the holes are there to also add a distinctive aspect to the guitar (they do look kinda awesome )...

I tend to agree, Altough I have an avarage sized Honduras Mahogany body blank here which is havier than my Korina body.

Mmm I find the korina much lighter than my previous build which was a maple-purple heart lamination. I also find it lighter than mahogany... In terms of comparison to other tonewoods I can't really say...

Yeap pretty cheap too. Near Kiryat Bialik..

Cutting the body close to the size: Shape is cut close to the template. Shape is robo-sanded to precise match! Rough routing the holes: A layer of Z-Poxy to prevernt router tearouts when rounding: Cutting corners : All done: Sanding to 240 Grit: Starting to do some pore filling: 1st layer of Z-Poxy done: I'm now waiting for templates to be sent by Ronny from guitarbuildingtemplates in order to resume working.

Hi all, This is my first post here. I hope you like it. First let me itroduce myself, my name is Gil, 26, I'm working fulltime in Philips healthcare and I'm an amateur builder from Israel. So this was my first project: Now I'm starting my second.... Korina body, with a laminted korina - maple neck. The shape would be a modified explorer. This is what I've done so far: Gluing the body blanks: Laminating for the neck:

Hi guys, I have recieved the new floyd rose block !!! It's a match ! I've replaced the usual 42 mm stock block with a Fat Brass Block made by Floyd Rose that is meant for the OFR.

Stewmac were really fast to respond but they said they did not have an aswer but the fact that the schaller can have the block replaced.

Hi guys, I have bought the Schaller FR tremolo from stewmac which comes with a 42mm block. I would like to change the block in order for it to be used as a recessed FR. Have you tried to do that ? Will the Original Floyd Rose upgrade blocks fit my tremolo (I know schaller have been making the OFR as well) ? If so, presuming I want the 32 mm block, which one would you use, the regular brass one or the "fat Brass" one? Thanks !