Jump to content


GOTY Winner
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


pukko last won the day on November 30 2016

pukko had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

48 Excellent

About pukko

  • Rank
    Multiple GOTM Winner

Profile Information

  • Location
    Uppsala, Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

2,352 profile views
  1. Cool, thanks! I am more worried of a heavy right hand strumming away, banging on the soundhole area, maybe with a wristwatch or something getting snagged in there... Yeah, 6-7 mm is kind of thick and I am thinking about doing exactly what you suggest and thin it more around the soundholes. IF I choose to bind the holes the ivoroid binding is 6 mm high so the top has to be thinned down accordingly. Some thickness might disappear in the final sanding of the top as well.
  2. I'm building a hollow archtop guitar right now and I'm thinking about doing a design with multiple soundholes like I've drawn on the top here: What worries me is that there isn't a lot of wood between the holes. I see that some builders here also make split soundholes so i figured someone could chip in with some knowledge/tips regarding this. The top is maple as you can see. Approximately 6-7 mm thick (=about 1/4"). Do you think I need to reinforce the holes from the inside in some way? In that case, how? A veneer glued on cross grain? Some kind of glue applied to the inside s
  3. Nice woods there! Could the fretboard be ziricote? I had to try photoshopping that body shape without the humps in the body lines. It could work that way too! Not as much METAL!!! though. I guess that the fact that the upper strap button is pretty high up (in line with the 10-11 fret) helps the balance?
  4. Paint the back of the cover, use that metal grate pattern! Or is the cover too dark to do that?
  5. Doug Kauer wrote something over at Thegearpage about cutters that he thought worked for SS fret cutting. Check it out here: http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=881772
  6. Well, it says 50-90 sek, did you get the actual 90 sek quote when trying to buy it? You should definitely try mailing them anyway, they're good guys with a great customer service so ask them. They won't rip you off. I checked posten.se (swedish postal service) and the price quote is somewhere between 36-92 sek depending on size and weight of the package. That is ordinary shipping, I don't know if they want to send with some kind of insurance or tracking... Check with them.
  7. What kind of truss rod is that? There's a Swedish webshop for guitar parts that has U-section aluminium bass truss rods. I don't know how much the shipping is but it might be an alternative to ordering from England or USA... Check out www.gitarrdelar.se. http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?cPath=85_139&products_id=1520&language=en
  8. Yeah, he builds some amazing instruments! The tuners on this Yamaha model were Sperzels. I read somewhere about some other guitar maker (I think it was Ron Thorn but I'm not sure) who ordered Sperzels with longer whatever they're called to achieve a similar effect as on the Yamaha.
  9. The first version looks a bit like Myka's: There are ways to achieve straight string pull without having a narrow design on the headstock, anyone remember the Yamaha AES820? I guess it had longer whatever they are called in English, the thing that connects the tuner button and the gearing on the tuner...
  10. >>westhemann Uh... thanks! >>Neil Beith Thanks a lot! >>Prostheta Yep, and don't forget to mention all the blondes too! Soundclips and video? You like the guitar now, I don't want to ruin your view of it with my lousy playing. Kind of like seeing a hot naked girl and then a present day Ron Jeremy pops in and tries to do his thing without really getting it... done. It kind of ruins the experience, right? Maybe if I can get someone else to play it. >>avengers63 Yeah, it's a pretty big step away from my previous build styles I guess. I like to try different s
  11. Pretty much done, just some setup stuff left.
  12. I had another idea for a switch tip. I figured I would make one to match the body look. I took a piece of mahogany, a piece of white binding and a piece of ebony (instead of dyed black mahogany) and glued them together. Then I shaped it into a switch tip. The first comment from my family was: It looks like a fishing float. And it does...
  13. Thanks a lot everyone! >>Prostheta Thanks for the kind words! Yeah, removing a little wood from the nut area won't be too hard. I don't want to use those metal shims if I can avoid them. The pickup is not too wide that way, the tabs fit. It's the sides running parallell to the polepiece rows that would need to be ground back and that's not a good idea... Anyway, it's just less than 1 mm that has to be taken away. I won't even have to rout it, I could use coarse sandpaper or a file and get it done. I could probably get the pickup in now too, but getting it out again would be interesti
  14. >>eddiewarlock Yeah, I suppose we have a good dental care system here. It's free for everyone until you're 18 (I think) so that might be a good start for people's teeth... You'll have access to some pretty cool tools for inlaying anyway! >>CrazyManAndy Thanks a lot! I put some strings on to see how it would work. It turns out I'm going to have to remove some material from the locking nut shelf since the nut is too high now. And I'll have to enlarge the pickup cavities ever so slightly since the Dimarzio pickup is a hair too wide. Not so with the other pickups I have, why
  15. Thanks everyone! Eddie, sorry but... root canal specialist?! Do you like inflicting pain to people??? Nah, just kidding. I just hope I'll never have to meet you when you're at work. Here's a couple of pics. I made a switch tip out of ebony and binding material. Knobs are ebony too. Sperzel Sound-Loks for tuners.
  • Create New...