lowrider

I'm still in my planning stage of my first build, a double cut carved top. I know, bad choice for a first build but I'm gonna take my time and hopefully end up with a nice guitar. The answer to my question is probably obvious but I'm gonna throw it out there anyway. I know I can get long shaft pots which would allow me to route the control cavity without getting in to the maple top, or maybe just in to it. Do you guys care if you route in to the top? Does it really matter? I'm going to put the three way switch in the same cavity so I guess I'll have to route deeper anyway for it to reach through. Or should I get one of those longer three ways and maybe using a forstner bit drill deep enough to make that switch work. Any thoughts are appreciated, Thanks.

Thanks guys. Yeah the kit came with plans for an all mahogany carved top LP with P90s. Not what I want to build right now but there is alot that I can reference from it. This is my first build and while I'm a "decent" wood worker I'm trying to limit my mistakes. I'll be taking pics as I go.

Not all actives are covered. Carvin comes to mind. You can have the same model pups either way.

Thanks. I get what your saying as far as once they're glued up they act as one piece. I'm not trying to be difficult, but would'nt a properly made joint that didnt extend thru the pup cavity act as one piece once glued also? I think only the glued on section would be extending thru anyway. I'm not against doing it that way and I guess i can see why it would be structurally better, I think. It would almost be the same (in my mind) as just using the single neck blank and not making the pocket as deep, kinda like a bolt on would be.

Uh...please.

I've been lurking and learning on this website for atleast a year and a half. A couple posts maybe. Two xmas' ago my wife bought me a solid body "kit" from LMI. It comes with a large hunk of mahogany, bookmatched flame maple and a neck blank that is approx. 3/4'' thick. Along with all the hardware needed. Ok, the neck blank is long enough to where you are supposed to be able to glue a section of it together to make up the heel. Fair enough. Keep that in mind. I'm designing and drawing at the moment and would like some opinions on the size of the joint. My plan would have the neck in the pocket to about the 20th fret on the lower side, about 1 1/8", and just between the 17th and 18th fret on the upper side, about 2 3/8"(22 frets). There is a tutorial on here that i cant find right now that shows a jig and the guy uses the jig to along with the neck to get his pocket correct. This pocket looks similar to what I planned in terms of size, which is my main question. How much is enough? I've considered making the pocket go to the far end of the neck pup cavity but then I remembered that my heel will be made up of 2 pieces and all that would be under this cavity would be the glued on heel. At that point what would be the benefit? It'd be like I just glued a 3/4'' thick neck to the rest of the heel. Am i making any sense here? Hopefully I didnt talk in circles. Thanks for any help on this and if any more info is needed let me know. I found that link http://www.mykaguitars.com/tools/neckpocketjig/

I have a Mesa F-50. Previously it would feedback on the dirty channel, contour off, gain about 10 o'clock, master at noon. This is basically a classic rockish setting. This was when using a solid body guitar. I put some new pups in (not because of this) and seems a little worse. I was told to unplug the guitar and see if the amp still does it to narrow it down to guitar or amp. I was also told if the pup grounds were'nt good it would feedback. Any other suggestions for me? What, a member since 1/06 and it's my first post?