2.5itim

Son of a bi**h it is hot today!! Heat index of 115 and absolutely no wind whatsoever. Now that I'm completely drenched I got the fretboard radiused to 12" and finish sanded to 600, I also wiped it down with a little mineral spirits just to see how she looks. I didn't realize it had this grain pattern in it until now. I really think I like it, gives it a little character.

i thickness my blank to what I want the heel thickness to be so mine is done from the beginning.

---double cut--- Yesterday I got my bridge mounting holes drilled, string holes drilled, drilled the tuner holes and routed the back of the body for my string block. Today I got the body grain filled (I hate grain filling with every part of my being), primed and painted the body. I used subarus aspen white mainly because I wanted it white but I also love subarus so I figured it fit. Hoping tomorrow I can get the fretboard radiused, fret wire bent and installed and finish sanded so I can start spraying lacquer soon.

Thank you very much birch! I started building in January and I just can not stop, literally all I do is work, build and sleep. I got the bug bad!! Ive been in production work my whole life so I guess that it transfers over to this also, I just can't let something sit without doing something else.

Damn, I'm sorry to here that man!! Times are hard right now, we've laid off about 70% of our staff in the past year.

Thanks dudes!! ---double cut--- Finished shaping the neck and volute, routed the recess for the cavity cover, drilled and carved the input jack area, finish sanded the body to 240 and fixed my screwup from the drilling the pickup cavity in the wrong spot. I'm going to drill the holes in my bridge for the saddles tomorrow and then I can get that placed on the guitar and holes drilled for that, as soon as I get that done the body will be ready for pore filling and paint. Im going to let my neck sit for a few days to make sure it doesn't move around on me after carving and then I'll radius the fretboard and install the frets, bridge & knobs will be getting sent off to anodizing in Oklahoma City beginning of next week. This has been going by super fast, honestly I didn't think I could get this far in just a week.

Double cut, my own design. This one has been quite interesting to do and has had its challenges to say the least, but after lots of thought and consideration I think I've just about got it figured out. Magogany body, flamed maple/walnut neck, walnut headstock, purpleheart fretboard 2x4 headstock, my own bridge that I am making, 1vol/1tone 3 way toggle, body will be painted gloss white, will have sperzel purple tuners and I'm going to have the same company that does sperzel' anodizing anodize my bridge and knobs the same color. But the hard part was this guitar doesn't have the part that comes out in front of the body to put a neck pocket so I had to bolt on under the neck pickup, I am using tee nuts and bolts to attach the neck, and this body is so thin (1-1/4") that I could only take my neck pickup cavity so deep. I think as long as I go with a dual slug type pickup I should have just enough room. I also had a little mishap with trying to put my bridge pickup in the wrong location (again!!!) so I am in the process of fixing that. I also carved the neck and thicknessed the headstock last night but forgot to take pics.

Tele thinline type thing african mahogany body, maple top, flamed maple/purpleheart neck, Birdseye maple fretboard.

Prs custom24 type build

Walnut/ash with padouk/walnut neck single cut. It is currently lacquered and curing, I am hoping to get this one wet sanded and polished next week and can then start assembly, wiring and final setup

It is becoming quite a pain to keep a separate post for each guitar that I have going on so I think I'm am just going to go ahead and do one post for all, it just seems the best way to go with everything I've got going on. I will post where I am on each of the builds and just post all of the progress in here. So, starting with the walnut/hackberry and ambrosia maple single cut. It's been lacquered and polished all I need to do is buy some conductive paint for the electronics cavities, wire it up and do a final setup, and still order my last 2 e&a tuners if they will ever come off back order.

I have seen the allied's but I don't think that they have a spoke wheel option so then I'm about in the same boat as the lmi.

I just ordered a lmi dual action, when it gets in I am going to measure the od of there nut, drill out my spoke wheel to that size, slide the spoke wheel on and weld it to there existing nut. At least this is my plan and I hope that it works lol.

I'm ready to pull my hair out!! Lmi will not sell there truss rod without the nut welded on and they said it's not possible to put a spoke wheel on that truss rod, stewmac confirmed its not possible to put a spoke wheel on there low pro truss rod because of the design of the nut and I can't just switch over to the hot rod with spoke wheel truss rod because the hot rod measures .218 wide and I already cut my slot .25 wide for the low profile.

I'm going to have to order a lmi rod and just see if they will send one without the nut welded on and then I can weld mine on when I get it in.

Welding worked just fine I just had to turn my amperage way down. So I'm not sure that this is right, when I rotate the spoke wheel the truss rod curves like its suppose to but when I let go of the spoke wheel it just goes back to its original place and the rod straightens out. Im thinking that this type of setup won't work with the way the stew Mac is not threaded on the other end, it's welded.

Ahh I see now! It was a dual action from the get go.

I'm sorry what do you mean "the original rod"?

Been busy in the shop today, I've been getting 5 neck blanks laminated up over this week and finished glueing the last one, will be getting them thicknessed level tomorrow. But i got my spoke wheel in the mail today, I ground off the old adjustment nut on this stewmac lo pro 2 way truss rod and am in the process of trying to figure out how I'm gonna get this spoke wheel to work. The only way I can think is to get a nut the same thread pitch, screw it on and weld it to the flat bar, then weld the spoke wheel to the threaded rod. Does this seem like it'd work to y'all? i also got my truss rod slot cut and clearance cut the neck for the spoke wheel, for some reason after checking and double checking and triple checking my truss rod slot ended up about .02 to deep so I think I'm probably gonna need to put a filler strip of veneer on top of the rod before I put the fretboard on. also got the fret slots cut on the fretboard blank. I still can't get over the amazingness of this board.

Man that thing is just gorgeous! Purple gets me every time.

Haha I'm kind of an accident waiting to happen, although up until recently I had been doing really good (almost 5 years without getting hurt). What's crazy is I usually do some straight stupid stuff on motorcycles and off road vehicles but it's the usually non dangerous things that get me. Lol

Yep there's tons of ways to do it, personally I saw the fret slots, glue the fretboard to my neck blank, cut the taper down my neck on each side, shape the headstock, shape the back of the neck, radius the fretboard, recut fret slots and insert frets.

Thanks guys!! The f hole has gotten so many compliments, I think it's a keeper. Simpleone, I'm the same way. I've been using routers for years and years and think that I've just become to comfortable, this has definitely made me take a step back.

Man I agree, that neck is damn classy!! good job dude.

Worked on this pretty late into the night trying to finish thicknessing the top until I had a little mishap with my router, I got pretty dang lucky here. I had my extra long router base on the router, shut the power off and grabbed the base, while the motor was winding down my hand slipped and took a good chunk out of 2 of my fingers!! A little peroxide and gauze and were good to go, finished thicknessing the top this morning. I had to go a little thinner than I originally planned, I wanted to go to 1/4" but ended up at 3/16" but it's nice and sturdy I think it should hold up just fine.