goat

Wow! beautiful job

Thank you for the great advice!

I have an arbor press and I bought the caul for $3.99,and will make the holder for it.

I didn`t see this on the tutorial but,do you have to crown a brand new fret job?

I noticed you bevel the sides,but do you touch the tops?

Thanx!

If you go to this site and scroll down,they have a few Eko`s.

http://sh333.bizland.com/biglist.htm

Yeah,so far.I`m taking my time, having a great time doing this project.I also paint,so it is pulling me away from the canvas for awhile.

I just added another inch of mahogany to the bottom of the thru-neck`s bodies to accomidate for neck angle.I havn`t worked it out yet because I am still waiting for the Melvyn Hiscock book in the mail for the formula.I just wanted to be ready.

I have all the electronics already and am waiting on the 6150 fretwire.

My name is cut in Abalone for the body,that will be a challenge.

I havn`t decided the methods for painting yet though.I have a professional spray-gun and air , just not a dust-free environment.Any suggestions?

I heard a spokeshave draw-knife is not the best for maple.I don`t have one anyway.I do have surforms,rasps and a floor standing belt-sander.

It`s a BLAST!

WARMOTH now sells Stainless steel fretwire.

Sorry,I guess only if they install it.

Luthiers Mercantile

www.lmii.com

I was fortunate enough to get a large jointer off a guy at work who just wanted to get rid of it. $100 ! An old Craftsmen Model # 113.206933(Back when they made quality stuff.)Also got the Delta 12 1/2" planer.

The jointer is also great for the neck face before fingerboard placement.

Whether you have a headstock or not you will need some kind of nut to set the string spread.

Thanks for your input

The headpiece on this headless system will already space the strings.They also lock with set screws.

The reason I asked,I was looking at a Graph-tech Trem-nut.I heard good things about them,but I will probably go zero-fret.

Same height.

Not wanting to be an ass, but this falls into the 'ask someone who's tried it category'.

There is no reason to make the zero fret taller - just think of when you play with a capo - same size fret, acting as a nut, and providing ideal action. If you want to guarantee that the zero fret ends up a good height you can leave it out during the fret levelling, which will leave it fractionally taller than the dressed frets. I didn't bother, and the guitar still plays great.

Could you use a nut with the headless,or does that effect your tuning?

Is a zero fret the same height as the other frets?

Found it! Stew-Mac

Anyone know a good place to order from?

I bought mine from AMS.

They only sold the pickup,not the mounting rings.

Also ,does a strat pickup mount directly to the bottom of the cavity? (no pickguard)Routed to correct depth of course.

so what neck are u going to use on the little guitar? or are they both going to be the same shape? (that little tiny guitar shape)

I was going to make both of them the same shape,but now that you say that....maybe the maple one I will make a little different,my own shape?Probably put a maple fingerboard

The Mahogany neck will get the Ebony fingerboard,5 pointed star inlays and my name in abalone (I have to inlay in the body being there is no headstock)

The pickups I ordered online from AMS(American Music Supply)

For #2 guitar I will probably take the pickups out of an old Westone Phoenix I have(crazy body shape).

Thanks.

Just finished cutting neck(s).I got two out of it.

Routed the truss rod channels.I`m going to use one of these and the maple neck-thru and build two at the same time.One will be all mahogany and one maple and mahogany.I`m interested in seeing if there will be a difference in sound.

Is Honduran Mahogany a good strong neck material?

I have a Maple one made and was going to glue on the Mahogany wings but also have Mahogany neck laminated.

The guitar is so small in body mass ,I think it might be too bright in Maple.

The pickups I bought are a DiMarzio Virtual Vintage Blues S/Neck and Tone-Zone HB/Bridge.(Thanks Derek)

Nice job!

Can you inlay MOP or Abalone in a body to be painted,or is it done afterwards?

Can it be done?

How?

Thanks for all the input.

I was listening to some of the tone tracs on the Duncan site.

So far I like the vintage staggered in the neck position and a SH-11 Custom Custom humbucker bridge.

There are no wiring diagrahms for a single neck,humbucker bridge.

I think this guitar will sound very punchy beacause of the maple

neck-thru.Not much wood on the sides(mahogany).

The body on my guitar will be extremely small,so I`m looking for a humbucker in the bridge position that will be a little thicker(bassier).

Also,what would be a good single coil for the neck?

I know it all goes by personal preference,but I`m just trying to get some ideas.

Opinions?

Thanks for the help

This is the guitar

Thanks,

It looks great.

What are some of the more bassy humbuckers?Would a Pearly Gates fit that description?

I might go that route with a vintage staggered single in the neck.

How come I don`t see too many guitars with a single coil (neck position) and humbucker (bridge) position ?

I thought I read once that tone wise it wasn`t a good idea because of the way they work crappy together. Any truth to this?

The small little Steinberger Spirit guitars are a straight thru-neck,and they do not appear to have any angle,of course their tremelo bridge is routed into the body so I may have to go that route.

Well as of now the neck and body are straight(one piece).I will know more once I finish the neck.Does it make sense to add an angled body afterwards?

The one question about the end piece at the top of the neck,

Should I drill a hole in it for instant access to the truss-rod adjustment ?

Thanks Brian,

Here is the picture(hope this works)