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goat

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Posts posted by goat

  1. I recently completed a single coil, single pickup guitar. (one P-90) Seems like the only noise is the slight noise to be expected with single coils. I didn't shield the cavity at all, but I used shielded cable for all wiring runs, and star grounding. Wiring is one of the cleanest jobs I've ever done, with as little exposed wiring outside of the shielding as physically possible.

    I haven't shielded the cavity with tape or anything - considering that I used shielded cable everywhere, am I likely to see any improvement in noise if I also shield the cavity? I suppose I could just try it and see, but the irregular shape inside the cavity is going to make this a difficult task. Just curious what other people's experience is before I jump in on this is.

    Shielding the cavity should make a noticeable difference,especially in rooms with different lighting and electronic systems going on(i.e. 60 cycle hum),The coils pick all that up,so if you are just playing in your room right now when you test,you may experience something different playing somewhere else.

  2. hi Goat,

    i can't open the link you gave.

    so i can't verify if the wiring will work with the switch you suggested. (i suspect it won't.)

    i know series/split/parallel HB can be done with the one i suggested.

    actually it can be accomplished with half of the switch i suggested.

    so you could even do 2 HBs with the same switch.

    cheers,

    unk

    Hi Unk,I had the link on private settings,Sorry.Look at it again,It should work.Its DPDT on/on/on 6 terminal,what can be different from the schematic?

    http://www.thebassplace.com/cgi-bin/shoppe...y=BART-MM42CBJD

    http://new.photos.yahoo.com/davidmenegaux/...8804109759666/0

  3. hi goat,

    the switch you linked to, has a different connection pattern than the one i suggested.

    i'm interested in seeing the wiring you're planning on using.

    i've never seen anyone implement a series/split/parallel arangement on that kind of switch.

    thanks,

    unk

    I took a picture of the Bartolini wiring.

    It is a on/on/on with six terminals just like the mini-switch suggested by Bartolini.

    http://new.photos.yahoo.com/davidmenegaux/...8804109759666/0

  4. I was reading an interview with Carl Thompson

    Wondering what others think of extra neck reinforcement.

    Below is what CT thinks.I`ve thought about Carbon fiber in the neck,but not sure yet.

    The whole interview is at his website

    www.CTbasses.com

    Thanks for your thoughts

    ...."Aaron: Have you ever used carbon fiber stiffing rods in a neck?

    Carl: No, I didn't like it. I found the neck hard to adjust, The neck should be-You should be able to adjust the neck. I don't believe that business about things not being adjustable. You should-a piece of wood is going to move and it should move I think. And when it does it'd be nice to be able to take care of it. You know, these guys that make all these-I'm not going to mention any names, I don't want that to be in print-but I've seen a lot of those graphite, solid graphite necks and stuff that they don't put truss rods in. Guys come in here with them and they say, "Carl, can you get my action lower, you know, can you do that?" And I say, "Yeah I could if I could straighten out the neck but the neck has a shoot up there at the end and I can't take it out. So if I drop the strings you're going to be in trouble. There is nothing I can do, you know." "Well can't you straighten it out. It's not supposed to be warped." "Well it is." And they've made no provisions to take care of it. A lot of those graphite things are just-I guess you do get more sustain out of it and all that kind of stuff but they're heavy. And I put a couple of rods in a couple of necks. I thought I would try that just to see. And I didn't like the way my truss rod worked after that. It just couldn't-it didn't-when the neck moved a little bit I had to fight the rod. You shouldn't have to do that.

    Aaron: So you don't use any reinforcement?

    Carl: Not at all. Use good wood. That is part of the reason people just have all of the problems they have. They don't use the right product in the first place. It's like New York when they fill up the potholes. The reason they are out there filling the potholes all of the time is because they are putting paper mache or something in there. I don't know what they are putting in there. But they're not what they, you know, should be putting in there. That's why they've got to keep digging them up. Or maybe that's good because they keep people working. I don't know.

    That's why they have so much trouble. People have trouble with necks because they don't do the right thing in the first place. I'm not saying mine are perfect because I have problems from time to time too. But not like I see on other things. "...

  5. I have PurpleHeart and Maple for the necks.

    First Bass:

    Hipshot Triple Lock Down Individual String Bridge - Black

    Bartolini MM42CBJD3 Pickup

    Bartolini 2.3AP Preamp

    Hipshot Ultralitf tuners-black

    For the second one I have not decided the pickups.I believe I am going with Barto Jazz pickups.

    Both will be neckthrus,but my Walnut is wide enough for a whole body, and for the third I have AAAA bookmatched Maple.I`ll take pics of that tomorrow,(I forgot to because i was stoked about the Walnut)I`ve had all this wood since `03,but life got busy.Two weeks ago my friend gave me this sweet Walnut for nothing.

    Here is the Walnut a friend gave me.Before and after I planed it.

    http://new.photos.yahoo.com/davidmenegaux/...460762374724605

  6. the p/j dimarzio set seems pretty do-able. does anybody else have any thoughts on it?

    I`m working on a Walnut bass with a Bartolini MM42CBJD3 Pickup

    It`s a MusicMan style Humbucker with a pre-amp.you might like that route.

    I have an OLP with the MM style humbucker and it gets good sounds.Also one pickup,with that nice wood you have,there`s that much less area of the beautiful wood covered .

  7. my suggestion with the newspaper thing was just to prevent those people that may think ' hey i built a ***** last year, i suppose i can enter that into the build off'. I didnt think it would be much of a deal to include a newspaper in the first build picture since we would probably be taking so many pictures anyway.

    That`s cool Wez.

    I actually didn`t see that in your post `til I read this.I wasn`t bustin` on ya.It`s a good idea.

    It just flashed in my head like an old movie.

    Too much LSD back in the day :D

  8. ...keep DETAILED records of the builds,and at the end of the contest...post every entry in a step by step byuild manner(like a tutorial)all on the same day... get my point?

    ...and hold up the daily newspaper next to the builds when you take the photos, so we know when you were where in the build!

    (Like old gangster ransome photos) :D

  9. Hey DigthemLows , It looks great.

    what model #`s are your Bartolinis and are you going with a preamp?

    From a website

    "BC5CBC

    Classic Bass Series, Dual Coil Humbucker.

    "Classic Bass" CB series bass pickups are passive designs featuring an extended and more resonant frequency range. They have far more "air" and definition at the top without sacrificing lows and low mids. They are cast in epoxy to remove unwanted feedback and microphonics."

    I have a NTBT that's prewired with 4 knobs, but I'm not sure what they are (I bought it used) I'll be looking into that soon. I'm almost positive it's bass/treble/volume/blend .........

    Thanks.

    Here`s a link to the NTBT`s

    http://www.bestbassgear.com/bartolini-preamps-ntbt.htm

  10. im guessing that this is where it goes

    i wanna build my own guitar in the very near future and this site was reccommended to me so hi :D

    Hi,welcome and keep reading posts.You`ll learn alot and there are many helpful luthiers here.

    I recommend the one eyed guy missing fingers who uses loose hanging clothing around power tools.He goes by the name of Lucky. :DB)

  11. Great job on the guitar, Goat.

    Can you tell us anything about the homemade fret caul press pictured in your slide show of the guitar?

    Sure I can tell you.

    A press at the time I made it was about $200.00 and just the arbor about $110.00

    The Brass insert that actually goes over the fret was $2.99.So I bought that.

    I welded Three pieces of 1/8"steel together,the larger one(not thicker.It is as wide as the brass cawl) in the middle and the two outside ones the length of the cawl a little lower so the brass cawl would sit inside it.I drilled a hole in the middle plate ,and welded two washers to each side of a steel rod so I could run a bolt thru it.

    I just tighten The Steel Rod in my Drill press and use it like an arbor press.

    The rod comes to the top of the middle piece of steel to give the force of pressure,but I leave the bolt so the whole cawl has movement so the fret seats itself nicely.This was my first fretwork and I did not have to do anything to the tops of the frets for finishing.They were all the exact height.They seated ,I cut and finished the ends using the block with the leather that I made from Brians tutoral(The one with the angles,then you flip it)Tuned the guitar and intonated it,and that was it!No buzz or flat spots and it is that way to this day.

    It`s a little primative looking,but it works and I saved a lot of money.

    Homemade for Drill press

    http://new.photos.yahoo.com/davidmenegaux/...8803011287955/9

    http://new.photos.yahoo.com/davidmenegaux/...8803011288577/3

  12. One of us can post the info when we get it.

    I used their tailpiece and head.If you want I can measure mine.I didn`t like their bridge.I used the Schaller roller bridge. I drilled a hole in the head for the allen on my truss rod.

    The mounting screws thru the tailpiece are 2-13/16 ths" center to center

    The Schaller bridge post to post are 2-15/16 ths"

    http://new.photos.yahoo.com/davidmenegaux/...460762307844694

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