JayT

18 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Take a length of cord for a makeshift strap and use ductape to attach it into various places, trying to figure out where there's an equal drag to keep it balanced. Hopefully that made sense

That's smart...or I'm dumb for not thinking of such an obvious solution. Thanks! I guess I should do this once most hardware is installed, at least the tuning pegs

There are some pretty amazing designs made from only circles ... maybe check crop circle images for inspiration. Some of them are very pleasing, although maybe too complex. They could be altered/simplified easily -- for strength reasons at the holes would probably need to be spaced further apart than these examples:

Good luck, I'm interested on seeing what you settle on!

I'm more concerned that the paint & clear coat will just cover the smaller holes and I'd have to re-drill them anyway. Or maybe stick tool picks in there? That seems labour intensive with all the holes and all the coats.

I saw on some old threads there are ways of protecting the finish from chipping while drilling holes.

• tape over hole location, drill through tape very slowly
• hand turn bit backwards to get through finish (using drill press )
• both of the above

Now I'm also concerned about the scratch plate holes not lining up if drilled before painting.

And trying to find the perfect/balanced spot for strap button. The tail button should be easy, just in center...but how would one test balance without a top horn or pre-existing button there? I was just going to eye-ball it to where it looked right. Is that a bad non-plan?

Drilled holes for neck,...questions, with the recessed screws I came within 3 millimeters of the back of the finger board. Is that too deep? Maybe I need shorter screws? So glad I didn’t contour the back heel!

I’m pretty much ready to sand and finish the body...should I drill the small holes for pick-guard, pickup face plate, etc before I paint or after? And strap button holes?

double post

On 12/23/2019 at 10:21 AM, JouniK said:

Started making my own pickup rings from my left over alder. Rough cut. These needs to be fine sanded and stained with black water based stain. Probably will cover these with finishing epoxy to make them more durable.

I can't wait to see how these turned out

On 2/14/2020 at 7:19 PM, killemall8 said:

Been working every day all day on these guitars. Somehow still barely making progress.

^ This...I can relate, but not to the results of your work. So good!

Success! Thanks again for all the tips and advice. 

I know these are baby steps to you guys, but to me they’re all firsts!

3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

C might hit your lap when sitting.

good point, how did I not think of that?

2 hours ago, willliam_q said:

the hardest part of any of this is getting a clean hole bored to take the jack, but even then that will be hidden behind a jack plate (depending on what you intended to use).

 I wanted the ElectroSocket style but settled on these $2.00 plates for the first builds.

 Incidentally, the only other person to get these and post a picture was this guy. There's no reason to have the input sticking out like this, right? I experimented with and could easily get it pretty much flush...what is this guy doing? Is his hole not deep enough?

I watched a video of 2 guys drilling all the connecting holes from the plugin hole...a straight shot from the jack, to the control cavity to both pick-ups. That was pretty cool but it took 2 guys to get it perfect and an impact drill. 

2 hours ago, willliam_q said:

also be aware of where the jack is on your guitar stand, (if you use a stand that is) you don’t want it stopping you from putting the guitar on the stand.

Ah, another great point that didn't occur to me! See, it's these little details that might just keep me off the ledge

Oh, I never added the string-ground hole to the bridge. I think I need this but not 100% sure. I'm not even sure what grounding is to be honest...something to do with not killing yourself in general terms, but I think in regards to guitars it is more of an interference/buzz reducer...right?

This weekend I finished up the cavities, and connecting them. Plus I made the template(s) for the pick guard (a few reject attempts but finally got something pretty good will know when I cut the actual plastic)...not to mention  built a router table for my new router since it doesn't fit the old table I got free with used router that blew up.

But now I've discover a (another) flaw in my design and could use some member's expertise.

The jack cavity placement...I'm not sure what to do here. originally I envisioned position 'A' ... but not sure if that distance is too far (for the wiring and/or actually drilling a straight, centered hole to the controls)

I want to use 'A' but came up with 3 other options... Please excuse the crudity of this model as I didn't have time to build it to scale or paint it. -- Doc Brown, 1959

option 'D' not pictured in my mockups, but would be something like a Jaguar input on the the face.

I think I can pull off 'A' but with everything on this build "I don't know what I don't know" ... maybe I can't think of a huge pitfall with this approach? I don't think theres enough room for the electronics in 'C' ...

Thoughts, opinions? As always ---> Thanks in advance!

On 2/10/2020 at 8:55 PM, mistermikev said:

did the template slip?  are your bearings secured such that they won't move up or down?

I don't think so this time, since that for sure happened last time when I forgot/overlooked tightening sufficiently (pretty sure I only hand twisted that time). I've been taking extra care to remember to use the provide wrench and torque down pretty hard.

EDIT: possible the bearing wasn't 100% secured...that didn't occur to me.  I'll check for sure since I added another to the bit just before.

The router I have (wen rt6033) uses an insert to fit my 1/4 inch bits ... 

... maybe that's problematic, but again I don't think so.

Here's the (3/4 rad) I was  using... 

I suspect operator error.

2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Did it cut into your template too?  Were you doing a full depth rout?

No, the template wasn't cut into. No I didn't do a full-depth cut ... I read someplace that you could go as deep as the width of the collet. So I was going 1/4 inch each pass,

In fact, this gouge happened AFTER the cavity was finished, removed the template after 2nd of 4 passes. Once done I thought the cavity needed to be "cleaned-up/smoother" and did one last pass ... possible I hit the plunge release, or released too much ... or was pressing too hard against the wall on the "clean-up" pass (or likely all three)

2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

The main thing is to get the bulk out first so that you already have a chamber that the router bit is enclosed in with only small amounts of wood left at the sides or the bottom for the router bit to have to remove.  Personally, I use a Forstner bit to do that hogging out - as close to the pencil line as I can:

I also do use a forster bit to hog out bulk...though not the the extent you show! What I did was hog-out with a 3/4inch bit then chisel out the remaining "points". When I tried to hog out overlapping anther hole the bit would slip into the hole. I remedied that somewhat by pressing in really slow AND changing out to smaller bits, but still went to the chisel to flated out the wall...which I discovered isn't ideal as I tended to graze the face of the body by accident and/or lay the chisel on top which has obvious potential consequences.

Lessons learned:

• slow down!
• remove more bulk
• reduce routing depth/increase passes
• make sure bearing lock is secure

thanks to all for the help, pointers & tips!!!

Routing cavities, first one went no problem...2nd one again router issues! How does a flush bit with 2 bearings dig into the wall?

but I made a little plug (not putty despite that being my first instinct) worked fine but wish I thought of grain matching at least a little. 

turned out ok...going to one painted and under pick guard so no BFD I suppose.

Rounded hard edges and carved belly cut tonight 

carving is easily my favorite part of this process

A bit of progress...every cut is nerve wracking at this point :)

and who knew drilling 6 straight, perpendicular holes is near impossible? Even with a drill press. I saw some videos after the fact on how to do it...pretty labor intensive. Anyway, I’m inching towards the finish line

11 hours ago, Prostheta said:

 

The thin sidewall in the pocket is fragile to my eye. It serves no supporting purpose for the neck and will likely break in use. Is it absolutely an essential part of your design intent?

 

No, I guess it was a (another) measurement mistake...but ended up helping alining the neck (seemingly anyway) & I’ve already trimmed it

also did 2nd body neck pocket, this one went way smoother

and got that snug fit that holds the weight of the body...starting to take shape!

I even found time to make a cavity template, but am not sure how deep to make each one. Researching tomorrow 

Looking ok I think! Whew...

...on to the next...

I got new router so decided to finally do the neck pocket. I’ve been putting this off for a while...

all was going ok...

Did 4 passes with router, getting closer to desired depth each time...being careful...then 1/2 way  through final pass something happened...the bit dropped loose or I hit the plunge thumb lock...not sure

disaster...I knew it. Figured might as well level it all to that new depth. Once I calmed down and left the room with all the sharp stuff I collected myself and tried this fix (no idea if right move but it is what it is)

i made a shim...like 6mm, glued & clamped....looks ok, nice tight fit. 

there are more clamps but I didn’t get too many pictures due to barely subdued rage :)

at least I a 2nd build on deck either way I guess. Live and learn 

On 1/12/2020 at 7:56 AM, willliam_q said:

Rear round over done and neck heel cut away to make it shallower. 

You glossed over the "neck heel cut away" part...any chance you can elaborate? I've never done this before.

Did you just route down to desired thickness then round off the lip? That's my plan but like I said...I have little idea what I'm doing.

oh, and great work!

I'm thinking of my next project and saw this guitar, I'd like to do something similar. I can't make out the logo and don't recognize the body or head shape...anyone?

original pic: https://thesesubtlesounds.com/mary-prankster-makes-her-raucous-return-at-the-ottobar/

Thanks for all the routing and router bit tips and info...it is a lot absorb I confess. 

As for the minor blow-outs I just couldn't bring myself to chop off/square off the corners and glue a scrap block in (against the advice of several here) for such small chip-offs. I know, I know...some of you are probably shaking your heads in disappointment but since this is being painted a solid color I used this 2-part wood epoxy I had on hand.

The color matches almost perfectly and it sanded down nice and is very hard (sorry I didn't get pics of it sanded smooth yet). 

Not sure how I'm going to handle the one big blow-out yet. I'm avoiding eye contact with it for the time being.

I drilled holes with my drill press in the 2nd body I'm working on and made a bunch of relief cuts This resulted in much better/90° sides. Which will obviously make flush routing much easier...right?

...wishful thinking. 1/3 of the way through my first routing pass the router blew up. It even took out my surge protector...toasted it. but it was old/used and only cost me $40 (even bundled with 4 bits and a small, steel routing table) so no big loss.

So now I'm dead in the water and gotta get a router. I'm leaning towards the "WEN RT6033 15-Amp Variable Speed Plunge Woodworking Router" for mostly price-vs-feature reasons. Thoughts, suggestions? Preparing for an avalanche of info

For my hobbyist level needs do I need a full sized router? I plan to continue building guitars and other stuff...but am not ready to commit to a $300 router. Also, can I use a full-sized router for guitar binding? I think I want to add binding to this project. Why not, I'm already in over my head.

Flush routed the first body...the off square sides had me trimming a lot with router before I could ride the template edge but got there eventually. 

Question, i have 2 types of router bits with bearings at top and some at bottom...is one sort better for guitar bodies? I used the one with it at the bottom, level with router table top.

Had some blow outs at the corners 2 minor... but one pretty bad.

I’d rather try wood putty or something to get the shape rather than change to a more rounded corner. Any suggestions?

On next one I’m not going to flush cut the corners, just get close an sand them to points.

next body glue drying...this one was way easier getting to this point since 2nd time around...

And turned out nicer to boot. No one mentioned that you gotta protect all these pieces from random shop dings and dents. Maybe obvious but I’m a bit flustered at times. 2nd one is in way better shape in this regard!

the crossed swords fret markers are badass! Do that

Very very impressive! Great design too.

Back at it...more issues! Yay. So the blank came out OK I think...but the little bandsaw I have wasn't working. Blade was twisting and burning wood so I switched to the jigsaw.

Even the jigsaw blade has problems...wouldn't stay square...kept bowing away from the line on the bottom side. Am I pushing it too fast? I dunno maybe cheap blade. Anyway came usable I think, will know more when I flush cut/route it.

The blade bending was made worse when I decided to cut 1/2 way the come at it from the reverse side. I should've foreseen that I suppose. Live and learn.

I might have to do some unplanned contouring or something rather than have 90 degree sides/flat top & bottom. Time will tell......

2 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

starting at 3:16-this alembic bass did it for me. i have (unlike most bass players I know) been hooked on filter based electronics ever since I first heard/saw this.

I also am fascinated by "Big Brown" ... this link https://forum.phish.net/forum/show/1377253605 shows details of the controls & electronics if interested

I was curious if there's any small, boutique builder(s) and/or particular design that inspired members to start building themselves? I'd guess many builders are great players that started out of a personal need for some feature and that snowballed into full builds.

For me, who always loved everything about electric guitars/basses but can barely play "cowboy chords" at best - it was 2 stories finally pushed me over the edge to give it a try myself.

First, I stumbled onto the documentary "Restrung" which tells the story of Randall Wyn Fullmer of Wyn basses. http://www.restrung.tv// this one-man operation is amazing plus his story is pretty interesting. So I started seeking out similar stories.

Secondly, I was listening to an interview with Brian Nutter/Nutter Guitars http://www.nutterguitars.com/index.html and he was telling the story of how he got started. Basically, at some point he was talking to some professional builder and asked if he could tour his factory...to which the pro replied "the factory is my mom's kitchen table" (or something like that) so he decided build his own. He has some awesome designs IMO.

The next day I started buying tools