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JayT last won the day on May 19 2020

JayT had the most liked content!

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About JayT

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    Annapolis, MD
  • Interests
    building, breaking, re-building stuff

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  1. Watch as many YT videos as you can find, within reason, There are so many techniques out there it can be confusing on which is "right" or "the best way" to do every step...*spoiler* there isn't any one way to do any of this!
  2. Great to see new blood! Especially since I've been sidelined from building (yet again) due to my back (lift with your legs, kids...you'll regret it later if you don't!) - I couldn't agree more with everything @komodo stated. If I was to pass on any one piece of advice I was given, it would be: "The phrase 'good enough' shouldn't be in your vocabulary when building"
  3. I want to paint a guitar kit solid white with some small graphics under the final clear coat. Is there any paint/finish combo I should avoid? I've never done nitro so if I go that way can I lay down the white, let that dry then hand paint some graphics, let that dry, then nitro clear on top? Not sure if that's too long and the clear coat won't "melt in to" the color coat. Also will the nitro work with say acrylic paint under the clear or will that have some problems? I plan to hand brush on the graphics but want the cllear coat surface to be as flat/smooth as possible. Considering g
  4. Question, should I seal & grain fill the back of a neck (set) that I'm going to paint same as the body & headstock? I've seen that to improve playability of a painted neck you can/should sand it down (1500 grit) to a mat finish. Also that "perfectly smooth" necks have less slide than one with a slightly uneven surface -- less surface area=less friction (oddly claimed to be proven out in one case by a guy painting/sanding the bottom of a racing boat) So, if I skip the sealing and pore/grain filling on the back of the neck only - then paint along with the rest of the guitar wou
  5. Very cool! This really has a lot of great layers to it, both in construction and aesthetics. Love the hidden pickup switch too, goo idea. What's this puppy weigh in at?
  6. I've got 2 builds going on (hey, that's a lot for so don't judge!) and my shop is turning into a sandpaper graveyard. My current sandpaper storage is a mess -- I tried making a sort of file cabinet type system with a fooler for each grit/size and that works OK for new stuff...but once used they end up all over the place. Doesn't help that I tend to not throw them away even after I think I should, the good stuff isn't cheap! I did start marking the back with the grit all over incase I cut them in smaller pieces, that helps at least with identifying the scattered pieces. Are there
  7. She turned out stunning! The attention to detail is top tier IMO - super stellar job! ,,, wait, no strap yet? How are you going to do that "spin behind the back" metal move?
  8. OK, I admit when I saw the first renderings of this I comment something like "Wow, this is an amazing design!" but was definitely thinking "we'll never see this in reality" --- well, thanks for proving me wrong. Mind blowing and its not even complete!
  9. @ScottR Same here, they are awesome ... I'm for sure going to shamelessly work one into my current build that has a teardrop shape featured - perfectly fits coincidentally for form & function
  10. Interesting idea...the one power tool I didn't try (yet) but wish I had ... you're getting amazing results BTW. Love this one
  11. Wow, such great work - I envy your skills so am taking notes.
  12. @RonMay Thanks! I've used a slightly simpler version this shape on my first build(s) - people either really like it or flat out hate it @MiKro -- yeah, that's an excellent idea --- and I may even try to remember to clamp down the piece when power buffing so it doesn't fly across the room and crack... To mitigate this I'm thinking about making the front face of the teardrop have a sharp/semi-sharp point then a smaller, more rounded teardrop from the back--carving to an angled slope, maybe paint the inside black (does that make sense?).
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