Jump to content

JayT

Established Member
  • Content Count

    207
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

JayT last won the day on May 19 2020

JayT had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

116 Excellent

About JayT

  • Rank
    JayT

Profile Information

  • Location
    Annapolis, MD
  • Interests
    building, breaking, re-building stuff

Recent Profile Visitors

569 profile views
  1. @curtisa thanks! that makes so much sense that it should’ve been more than obvious - but not to me as usual
  2. that is funny right there
  3. This looks phenomenal! - yet another builder who makes me embarrassed of my (so called) skiils - can't wait to see this fully baked.
  4. Hope someone can help -- maybe a dumb question, but here goes... On this build I intend to try a heel accessible truss rod, and following Stewmac instructions as so (these are grabs from Stewmac site) and I'm planning to route an access channel something like this: So, finally the question--- If to insert the truss rod by just sliding it into the channel as shown, whats to stop it from sliding out into the access cavity? I've stalled my build until I can figure it out, here's where I am now: Maybe I shouldn't have the truss rod access cavity at all
  5. Looks so good! Question- I love the contour where the neck plate goes always want to try that— but do you use shorter screws?
  6. All I see is... ...which isn’t a bad thing
  7. The whole thing was a mess, even after several tries using various methods/tools. Yes, I use illustrator. As for getting specific dimensions I just set the units (of measurement) to inches or millimeter (rather than the default pixels), which you then can view/resize using the transform tool. Also, I always align all strokes/outlines to the inside of the shapes (rather than outside or centered) to ensure the exact size stays the same: This is exactly the conclusion I came up with hours later while sitting on the couch watching TV...I find myself continuou
  8. Made the teardrop fret markers today. Walnut, will go on maple fingerboard. Wasn’t difficult but in practicing carving out holes for them didn’t yield great results. I tried dremel & chisel and combo of both. Even with the dremel attachment for flat surface I’m not happy...any tips?
  9. 2nd body cut out, I don’t know why I don’t do one full build at time...well I do know— with limited space setting up tools & workspace takes an hour
  10. indirectly related to this build --- I made a cheap-o, push (no crank) fret bender out of plywood scrap, a cut up credit card (for spacers) and skateboard wheel bearings -- like $12 total cost. And the wire slides through like butter.
  11. I still had the scraps from the rough cutout and made the filler piece from same location ... that seemed to help a lot
  12. Had (yet another) router screw up - user error! After a few shallow passes and removing the template I misjudged the routing bit bearing height. Whadya gonna do...? so I did my best to match the gouge and glued it in - thinking I can always shave off the entire edge square and join a bigger piece or even reshape the horn if the mood struck me Anyway it came out OK I think, good enough if I use the dark red stain. I'll just consider it Wabi Sabi
  13. Attached is a zipped up .eps file that I believe you can open with CorelDraw and/or convert to CDR, Sorry I only use Adobe -- Maybe not 100% perfect but pretty close. Screenshot of it as well, Just to show what it should look like (there are more than one variations (I think) Hope it works for you treelife.eps.zip
×
×
  • Create New...