6

Hey guys, I did a lot of searching on the net and this forum and couldn't really find what I'm looking for. I am trying to find a template or even just some measurements or *something* for a custom Explorer build. I'm looking for Gibson spec, I'm not sure if the Epiphone specs are smaller/thinner or anything plus the guitar I'm trying to "copy" is based off of Gibson specs. I tried getting ahold of Warmoth to get them to release the measurements they use for both the Explorer body and for the Kenneth Lawrence headstock, but no dice, which I understand completely but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask, haha. So if anyone knows where I can find anything regarding dimensions or, if I'm lucky, a template that I can print, please let me know. My searches have turned up fruitless so far except plans that I can buy for $58, which I might have to consider but I'm hoping for free plans. Can you blame me? ~006

Also, my dad has one of those huge Campbell-Hausfield air compressors (the kind to work on cars with pneumatic drills, etc. all day long and it only clicks on once or twice), it's a big ass compressor. And he has the "touch-up" can that looks identical to this one from StewMac. It's the one with the 8 oz. can on it. I just spoke with him and he said it's a pain in the ass to get the paint mixed with the right amount of thinner, the air pressure right, to get it spraying and not spattering. I told him I have an online resource of people I can ask questions. He said I'm welcome to use it and try whatever I want. That setup or the rattle-can setup? What would be easier to use in the long run? I already have the stuff for a big air compressor setup obviously, so that cost is out the door. I'd be buying paint and clear...not much expense there. ~6

Well the idea is to keep this project *cheap*, heh. I was going to strip it down to the wood, which I'm betting will look horrible, and then start all over with a new finish. Not a transparent one, a solid color burst. I understand it would be a lot work but I'm willing to put in the time. Eventually I will be buying a neck from Warmoth with an ebony fretboard and a darker neck wood (I hate all-maple necks) but that will only run me about $150+shipping. For that I will be looking into a waterslide Fender logo and clear coating the headstock, tung oil on the back of the headstock and neck. But that's later down the road. For now I'd really like to just refinish it myself. I feel that I can do a good job on it and it doesn't hurt to try. If anything horrible goes wrong, I could always just get that replacement body, sure...but why not try refinishing first? ~6

Ok I have a 2000-2001 Fender Stratocaster MiM. It's black right now. I am going between two ideas right now, both involve painting. 1) Tobacco burst 2) Put a tobacco burst and "relic" it Both involve the tobacco burst. I really want that. The main deal is the painting. A friend of mine bought me an e-book from paintyourownguitar.com a long time ago and there are videos of him shooting with rattlecans. I'm probably going to be using this method as I don't have any guns or a booth...or anything but a guitar and a desire to do this. From what I've seen on the vids, and heard from chats with people that used his books/vids, the finish comes out pretty damn decent. He mentions some brands of paint that he prefers and everyone I talked to using his method agreed on the brands. I was wondering what some of the resident rattlecan heroes swear by. I'll be purchasing that handle that turns a spray can into a "gun" from the local Home Depot or Wal-Mart. When it comes to nitro and lacquer...I get lost, I don't understand what the big differences are or the advantages of either. I just want to paint my guitar with a solid tobacco burst, like Fender does on the burst finish MiM Strats. I've viewed the Guitar ReRanch "tutorial" on how to do it, as well as the PG.com tutorial. I feel confident I can handle the techniques, and if I can't I can always sand it back down and start over, right? I think I will have to wait and see how well it looks, if it looks good at all, with the burst before I decide to relic it and basically ruin the hard work I put into a (hopefully) good looking burst. I have lost my train of thought on this (the new James Bond movie is awesome) and I'm going to leave it like it is. ~6

I was wondering if there were any nicely illustrated tutorials for this installation. I'm getting the Tune-O-Matic style bridge to replace the one on my EC-1000. Apparently there is great instructions included with it and the support from the tech guy at GT is really cool. Just wondering if there is anything I can look at before it arrives here. Thanks! ~006

I use to not have bills, and I was making a lot of money Years later, I'm married, have an apartment, and two cars to pay for...WEEEEE! ~006

Well, here are my amp options for the live shows: Mesa Dual Rectifier 3 ch., Peavey JSX, Peavey 5150 mk1, Mesa Mark IV, Marshall JCM800 2203, and a Marshall JCM2000 TSL. I have two Marshall 1960 cabs, one with V30's one with G12T75's, and a Mesa (oversized) cab with V30's. Then for cleans I have a Fender Deluxe Reverb, and an old Ibanez acoustic amp, it's like 15watts with a 10" speaker. I also have a PODxt Live (the floorboard style one) with all the amp models, and there is a model on there that's suppose to be specific for piezo usage. With a regular guitar, it sounds pretty nice for acoustic simulation, although you can tell it's an electric it's a very nice clean sound. I have to switch between distortion and acoustic sounds quite frequently with this project I'm doing, the distortion sounds are more for adding moods and such to the songs, like melodies and whatnot with effects like flange and chorus, heavy reverb, etc. But for the most part, the acoustic stuff is the main focus. I have a Morley ABY box, so I could just use two amps live, OR, I could just use my PODxt Live straight into a PA, which I've had great results with doing my other band which is heavy music. If you're wondering how I'm getting the POD to sound good live, it's because I'm an audio engineer, so I take very special interest in making sure my tones and live sound is as good as possible for anything I'm using. Our other guitarist in my other band uses a real amp, a JCM900, and I've gotten more compliments on my live tone than he has when I am using my PODxt, and he's not too shabby on getting tones, so that gives you an idea of the possibilities I have. I'm thinking the PODxt Live will be the best bet, especially since I won't have to lug around two amps and a cab to every show. As far as sound quality (acoustic vs. electric with piezo) for live shows, let's be honest here...local band shows usually have crap sound in general. I really don't feel like having two seperate guitars, especially if I don't necessarily have to. All the shows I have played, we bring our own sound guy, he is very good and makes pretty much anything sound like a million bucks. I think the piezo system in this Fender will be a great tool to have. ~006

So I could just use a MONO cable, and use the switch that comes with the system to go from magnetics to piezos then? Sorry if I seem to be asking the same questions over and over, I just want to make sure before I buy it. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. ~006

So is there no way to use a mono cable/jack with this? ~006

Yeah, the system Graphtech sells comes with the GHOST loaded saddles, the pre-amp, a jack, a battery clip, and the little toggle switch to go from mag-blend-piezo. My main concern is making sure I don't have to put another output jack into the body. So what you're saying is, I can leave my mono jack, on there, and just flip the little toggle switch to go between the three options, right? I would really like to be able to split the signal completely though. As in, have the magnetic signal going to my regular amp, and then piezo signal going to another amp/PA. Or would it be easier to just leave it mono and use my footswitch for my amp (Peavey JSX) to go from distortion to the clean channel (set up for acoustic sounds)? Again, I need a setup that is convenient and that makes sense for live use. So which way would be best for that? Thanks, by the way. ~006

Ok, I have a Fender Showmaster FAT HH flame maple topped guitar, I love it. It's a really nice axe, but I hate the bridge. I bought a Tremol-No and installed it so that basically now I just have a hard-tail. I've been writing a lot of stuff lately that incorporates acoustic guitar stuff and I'm working with a couple of people to try and get this out to a live show performance. Now, the problem is, my acoustic is a mint condition (playing mint) 1960's Gibson Hummingbird acoustic, #214. It was my grandfather's, and he knew I played guitar before he passed away and he left it to me. I'm not about to take that out to shows with me to play the few parts here and there of acoustic dabble. So after talking to a few people online, the suggestion I mostly got was a piezo system. Then after talking to some people online about piezo systems, the suggestion I mostly got was the Grahptech Ghost system. So, I would be replacing the saddles on my Fender with the GT Ghost replacements. You have to run the wires down through the bridge, and into the control cavity where the pre-amp is going to be. Fender, luckily, has roomy control cavities and the pre-amp will fit. However, I believe it requires a 9v battery to operate. Where can I put that? Will I have to route anything? It's not a problem if I do, it's just I need to know beforehand. Also, I really don't want to route another hole and screw in a second output jack for the piezo system. I will have the mini-toggle switch already in there to switch between piezo and magnetic pickups, I can set the piezo volume on the pre-amp to match the magnetic pup's volume, so I don't need another volume pot or tone put put in. Someone told me to just get a stereo output jack and find a good length of stereo "y" cable. Anyone know where I could find a 20'-40' stereo "y" cable for this application? ~006

Hey Syndacite, I bought that same guitar a few months ago. I'm going to be doing a custom inlay on a new fretboard to mine pretty soon. Also painting the pickup covers white. I have PhotoShop mock-ups of the ideas I have had if you want the links to the PhotoBucket albums. I actually really like the carbon-fiber finish on that soloist on musiczoo. Very cool. ~006

Ok, what are lap joints? I know what mitres are, I used them for molding around the deck I built years ago. I'm not savvy on the terms associated with woodworking, I just know you can saw this piece and this piece, nail them together, and you have a house. Thanks so far guys, btw. Also, is there a tutorial online with pictures, by any chance? ~006

Ok, so I've searched and searched on the net and PG's database and main site and can't find anything on how to do binding on a neck and headstock. Anyone know of some valuable resources online I could check out or anything? I'm looking for the typical DIY poor-man's way/method...if there is one. I'll be doing it on a Jackson neck, so there are a couple of pretty sharp angles I have to wrap the binding around. Also, what kind of binding? Will the stuff from StewMac do ok? Or is there a better supplier online? Thanks in advance. ~006

There it is. Ok, so I am about to order two blank ebony fretboards for my Jackson JS30RR. All I'm going to do to it at first is the custom inlay and paint the pickup covers white. I will wait and see if I really feel as though I should do the EVH paint job as well, but from the PhotoShop mock-ups, I think just the inlay and the white pickup covers would look really great as is. So, one of the fretboards will be a test run. I have been practicing on scrap wood for about a week with a Dremel only, no special attachments or anything, and I must say I've become quite skilled at it. However, I will be ordering that router attachment from StewMac and the correct bits for the Dremel itself to do the routing properly. The other board, in case my "test run" isn't all that great, will be the "for real" attempt. If that goes south...well then I guess I'll be sending my idea to a luthier to get the work done "professionally". As far as painting the pickup covers white, will Krylon rattle cans be ok? If so, which white one should I get that will leave me with a satin/matte white finish. I don't want a glossy coat, I just want a satin white pickup cover. Also, I haven't found anything on the net as of yet on how to get the pickup covers off of the pickup, and I also haven't taken the pickups out to see if the covers just simply come off. Anyone know how much of a hassle, if any, it will be to get those off to paint? Will painting the covers affect my tone a lot? Or basically in such a miniscule way, also if at all, that I won't notice a change in tonal characteristics/qualities? As far as the fretboard work is concerned, I'm trying to get that cloudy white shell for my inlay. Would just regular MOP with the swirls in it do the trick...such as the blank pieces available froom StewMac...or should I look somewhere else? I need a pretty big piece, or three pieces, large enough to cover the fretboard width-wise, and about two inches length-wise for each peice if 3 seperate. Any hints for suppliers? What are the best bits to get for my Dremel for this purpose? I have been using this steel one that has a ball type end on it with grooves in it, it chops the wood away fairly easily on the 4 or 5 setting. The only advantage I have seen so far with getting the router attachment from StewMac is that it's extremely difficult, and actually almost impossible, to make the route level on the bottom by going at it free-hand. As far as installing the fretwire, I have a Craftsman drill press here. What do I need/can I get to press the frets in with it? Or, can I just get the appropriate hammer and just hammer them in after slightly bending them? I'm trying to go at this the cheapest way possible, mostly using existing tools and equipment I already have. Obviously I don't have the fretting hammer, fretwire, blank MOP pieces, or the correct glues and sandpaper, paint, or the Dremel bit(s)/router attachment...but everything else...actually it seems as though all I have is the Dremel. *Sigh*. I don't think I should buy a bunch of expensive luthery tools for me to do one little project and never use again. Alright, I think that covers the gameplan. Any advice/tips/tricks/hints/price help/suppliers/anything that anyone wants to tell me about? Thanks in advance. ~006

Well, I found a guy that will make me a new fretboard. A blank ebony one, 25.5" scale length, 1-11/16" width at nut, compound 12" to 14" radius, slotted for frets, basically a blank replica of the one I have on my Jackson right now. That way all I have to do is route for the inlay, glue it in, sand it down, glue in the frets, and it's done. ~006

Well, now I'm trying to find the cheapest ways (tool wise) for me to do the work myself. I have a Dremel, and lots of wood laying around, a drill press, a 6in. bench grinder (which can be outfitted for buffing a guitar), I have files and whatnot as well, all kinds of levels, rulers, drill bits, titebond, etc. Here already. So looking at it, all I really need to buy is a proper fretting hammer and the little base for my Dremel to use for routing. If that's the case...I'll do it all myself, or at least try to. Heh. Anyone know where I can get an ebony fretboard that's got a compound 12" to 14" radius and 1-11/16" width at the nut end, 25.5" scale, slotted for frets already? ~006

So I really don't have to radius the frets beforehand, do I? Or would it make my life easier if I did? If I must, I was going to do the PG.com tutorial on making my own fret radius device using the two planks of wood, and a ruler to create the radius, and then making slot in the curved peice to fit the fretwire in. Unless, of course, I don't need to radius them, persay. ~006

I was wondering if there is a "poor-man"s way to install frets. Obviously using an arbor press with a caul that has a corresponding radius is the right way to do it. But are there cheaper ways of doing it? Can they just be hammered in, and then gone over for the details? ~006

Hmm...ok, for tools specifically needed to do this myself, for the fretwork, binding, and inlays alone, I'm looking at about $300, +/- $50. That's not including the supplies to finish the guitar with my stripe design. I'm starting to wonder if it would be just easier, as well as cheaper, to just send the neck off to a guy I know to have him do the binding, inlay, fretwork, and fretboard install. I have to buy the paint, clear coat, buffing supplies, headstock decal supplies, painting supplies, new tuning machines, arbor press, caul for the frets, fretwire, fretting tools, binding material, binding supplies, neck level stuff, fret leveling stuff, rulers (specific for application), pickups, adhesives, masking tape....I mean, the guitar only cost $300 itself. I would be spending nearly $600 alone on supplies and tools. As much as I would absolutely love to do this work on my own to get the gratification from it, it seems it's more trouble than it's worth as far as cost is concerned. It would cost me about $300 to get the new fretboard installed, custom inlay done, fretwork, binding, and shipping to and from the luthier I know. I have seen all of his work and he does an amazing job. That would leave me with about a $210 cost to do the rest of the work, a paint job, the headstock logo, Sperzel locking tuners, and new pickups. Total that way would be $510 (+/- $30)...while that's not very far off from $600, I will know the most important part of the work (the neck) is done properly and professionally. Or should I just bite the bullet and buy the tools and everything to do it myself and take a crack at it? Believe me, I would love to go that route, but would it be worth it? ~006

Arbor Press from StewMac I'm assuming that would be the ideal choice to do the fret seating on my new fretboard. Or are there some bad things about it? ~006

Ok, well I think I have the EVH finish thing covered. My friend bought me that "Paint Your Own 5150" e-book from PaintYourOwnGuitar.com. It seems like it'll be pretty easy to do...the hardest part seems to be the two month wait for the finish to completely dry. I feel as though I could tackle the inlay myself as well. It doesn't seem all that difficult...I mean, you just gotta have patience, it seems. You make your inlay, you make the hole in the fretboard to fit the inlay... I have a dremel, as well as a drill press, sanding materials, wood glues, epoxy mixes...My dad is a carpenter as a hobby, and so he's got a lot of tools laying around for wood work, luckily for me . The MAIN thing I am concerned about tackling myself is the binding on the neck and headstock. Do I basically just route a very small channel all along the edges or....??? Also, does anyone know where I could find a new Jackson headstock logo? I'm afriad when I go to paint the headstock with the stripes, I will bugger up the Jackson logo, so I'll need another one to replace it. I saw the headstock decal making tutorial on the PG.com main site, maybe I could make mine that way? Annnnnnd....when I go to paint my guitar, which order should I put the colors on in? As in, white base, red, then black? Masking off my stripes as I go? The only thing with that is my white stripes are suppose to be on the very top of the rest, as in, the red stripes run underneath the white, when you look at it. So I guess just some very clever masking is in order for that part? Binding materials, best place to get them? I was going to go with StewMac for a lot of the materials and supplies for this project. I did check out those sites you posted, MATTIA, and I will be ordering the shell from one of those guys for my real attempt, but my practice runs will be with synthetic shell from StewMac. Just in case I do a really good job on that and bugger up the real shell, at least I'll have a shell inlay still instead of a wooden one, heheh. OH, also....anyone know where to get fretboard blanks in ebony? Preferably with the radius and scales being optional, as well as the fret slots already cut too. Basically a place that has all the options to choose from. Maybe Warmoth? I'm not sure, and a google search turned up exotic wood dealers that sell LUMBER, not fretboards, *sigh*. Ideas? ~006

No no, I wasnt' trying to sell anything. My friend bought me that PaintYourOwnGuitar thing a week ago because he knew I was thinking of painting my guitar with the EVH design. I was just going to send the PDF book to pike, lol. It's actually very helpful, very, VERY detailed. ~006

Pike, e-mail me at 006productions@gmail.com, I have something that would help you a TON. ~006

Ok, I have a Jackson JS30RR Rhoads V that I bought a while back as a beater guitar. I'm going to use it for my band's live shows. Since I paid very little for it, I have decided to "trick" it out. Do things to it that I wouldn't want to even dare trying on my other very, very, very expensive guitars that I have in my collection. Now. I have never painted a thing in my entire life. I have never done any woodwork like this, the only wood work I have ever done is build a deck for my home by myself 7 years ago. Yes, it's still standing and very level, I'm quite proud, hehe. Anyway, I made a mock-up of my guitar using PhotoShop so that I could play around with paint designs and inlays and whatever I wanted to. Here it is: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/006...ps/ORIGINAL.jpg So I fooled around for about a week with that, and finally came up with something I am very happy with. First one is with strings, the second is without, to see the custom inlay better: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/006...ith-strings.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/006...-no-strings.jpg NOW. Like I said, I am completely new to working on guitars. I know how to set-up and intonate my guitars, but as far as replacing a fretboard, making my own inlays, and painting...uh...nope. I was going to order a couple of blank ebony fretboards with the correct radius and scale length from a wholesaler with the cuts for frets already in them. Three to be exact. One for me to practice on, one for me to try for real on, and one to send to a real luthier in case I bugger mine up, lol. Also, I have found most of the supplies I need from Stewart MacDonald, online. I am going to need a peice of Mother-Of-Pearl (or similar white/grey material) for the inlay, some tall-wide fretwire (2ft. or so should be enough) and a bunch of files and glues and stuff like that. Clamps and whatnot can be had at Home Depot locally. I have read all of the tutorials pertaining to this work on www.ProjectGuitar.com, but I would still like any tips and/or tricks anyone can give me. Also, binding...best way? Etc. Also, does anyone know the radius and scale length of my guitar's fretboard? I'm still looking around trying to fine it online, but no luck yet. I'm assuming 25" or so. And I've heard that Jackson uses a 16" radius typically, but that is on their USA models. The first thing I want to try is doing my own inlay on the fretboard. So that's why the importance of the scale/radius information. If I can do that myself, I can send the neck to this guy I know and he can just switch the fretboards out for me, much cheaper than him taking the old one off, doing the inlay on the new one, putting the new one on, and fretting it. Plus I can learn how to do it . As far as the finish goes on the body and headstock...I would really like to try it myself, but...I think I would feel much more comfortable sending it to that guy and having him do it, just so I *know* it comes out right. I've seen his work and it's amazing. I have never seen my own work, heh. I am going to post this in the other forum as well. So, thoughts? ~006