nakedzen
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Everything posted by nakedzen
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Bunch of small things. Board sanded to 1200 grit. Ebony and flamed birch veneer glued. Switch cavity and hole done. Dots added.
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There's a lot of finessing and multiple shallow routes doing it the "creeping towards" method. Which I prefer to do to avoid going too deep and having to use a shim. You can change the back of the pocket to the same angle as the bottom, by routing against the top edge of the pocket when you do the angled routing. If you're sure about the angle and action much easier and quicker to do it with an angled template all at once.
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You don't lose any precision since you're not routing against the template with the angled cut, but against the edge of the neck pocket.
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Finally found a use for the flamed birch veneer I've had for a year or so. Thinking offset block inlays from it too, we'll see. Sanded the body to 240 too.
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TOM bridge usually needs around 3-4 degrees tilted neck. You can do either, tilt the heel or the pocket. If you have the bridge already, you can measure the angle with a long ruler or string. I find it best to have everything ready, the neck, the bridge, so you can build with the real components and check the actual action you'll have when it's all in place. If you tilt the pocket bottom only, leave some overhang on the fretboard to hide the gap. I usually first route a shallow flat neck pocket. Then tilt the template to desired degree, and route the bottom with a pattern bit along the edges. I guess you can do it all in one go, I just prefer to do it in steps to avoid making it too deep.
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Very nice. The missing piece behind the bridge makes me worried but I guess the top and back can take any strain from that.
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Looking like a neck slowly. Lots of sanding later... still not done but getting better
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Finally done with the body. Neck coming along too. Not glued yet, just checking.
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Think I'll go with nickel/cream hardware instead of the black I originally considered. Slow going with hand sanding to get rid of the final bit of router marks. But I don't want to risk ruining the flat edge with the sander so easy does it.
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What's the USB port for?
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Thanks! Cleaned it up a bit, here it is wet to show the figure better.
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80 grit on the orb sander done, rest I'll do by hand.
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Lol. We'll see how it goes, I need to be really careful with the sander. I need to do a second one and call it Barbados.
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Routing for the carve done.
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Did the pickup cavities, planed the headstock, routed the fretboard to size. Testing the look of the pickups I'll be making for this. That's not dust btw, the ebony has a subtle quilt pattern on it.
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More progress, control cavity and cover done, tenon channel too. Shellac for grain fill, we'll see how it goes.
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Preparations done for the neck pocket route. Ran out of time to do the actual routing.
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Couple qs honduran mahogany necks roughed out on the bandsaw. Cleaned up the carve top sides a bit.
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That's pretty sweet.
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About 2" at side (varies), 2 1/2" at center if I recall corretly. Someone can pitch in if this is wrong?
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Great to hear! It'll be LPC spec, 49mm at the edge, 63mm at the center. We'll see how heavy that ends up!
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Some cheese and another slice of bread.
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Made some sandwiches today.
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Here! https://www.nebulabelgium.com/collections/winding-wire/products/solderable-enamelled-copper-winding-wire Most parts can be found on aliexpress for half price or less. But Nebula has pretty good prices.
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Yeah the stewmac kit was great for getting started, it comes with some pretty good instructions that come in handy with later builds too, figurin out which wire was supposed to go where etc. Nebula Belgium has been a good store to buy from, can't remember if they have wire though.
