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al heeley

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About al heeley

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    Holmfirth, Yorkshire

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  1. Beautiful work, the wood combination is stunning!
  2. A Stereo jack is essential with battery powered pedals, the ring normally goes to the -, then when the jack is inserted, it makes the circuit from ring (and battery) to earth. Unplugged - the battery is saved.
  3. Not always correct - for most LED's the long leg is actually the + (anode) and should go to the + of the battery. Most will have a slightly flat section at their base which is the - (cathode) - this leg should go to ground.
  4. Here's a schematic for a passive A/B/Y box with LED's
  5. Great birds eye maple neck - looks really sweet, and I love Walnut for the body, esp. bookmatched and open. Really nice - you'll sort the neck pocket out with a couple of well-fitting shims, no problem.
  6. You need to have a look thru the articles on this site: http://www.guitarnuts.com/index.php
  7. yes that is a gorgeous neck blank. Looking forward to seeing this build progress
  8. Guitar electronics dot com or seymour duncan schematics will give you loads of wiring schematics. I'm not familiar with the guitar - what pickups does it have (ie: single coil or humbucker, how many...) What control knobs? You can then match your requirements to a suitable schematic and get the sucker up and running again.
  9. It is safe. the battery will eventually slowly discharge and the LED light will fade. It will not blow up. After some time the battery termainals will start to corrode and there will be a build up of corroded and oxidised metal at the cathode and anode. This will not kill you if ingested but ingestion should be avoided. If you had a small cat that licked it, it may have a poorly tummy for a day or two.
  10. My son chewed up my ruler. Centre line is good for starters, then I find I cannot get the neck pocket rout perfect to within a tenth of a millimetre, and if everything is fed off the centre line, then a tiny misalignment on the neck pocket translates to a noticable shift in the neck and ferrules alignment. I prefer to use a centre line to start with, then get the neck pocket rout as bang on as is possiblem, then clamp the neck in place and use this to dictate exactly where the pickup poles, the bridge and the ferrlues should sit.
  11. Your top routing jig is a really neat idea, Setch, and I have a copy half built in the garage at the moment, but something's been bugging me. I want to replicate the top curves of a PRS Custom 24. Your jig can cut nice contours at equal distances from the edge of the body, but on a Cu24, you have to contend with different contours. If you take a cross section through the length of the body, the curve at the back running along the length of its centre line falls over a 150mm distance from 48mm thick to around 35mm thick. If you take a line across the width at the thinnest part, the waist betw
  12. Here's something that's caused me problems with guitar body builds, aligning the neck pocket rout accurately. The bodies I've made so far have all been without templates. By making three of these little paper clip sights, you can attach one to the centre of the nut on the neck, one at the centre of the top fret then gently clamp the neck roughly in the right position. I stick a piece of masking tape across the body 3" in where the heel of the neck rout should be roughly positioned. The third paper clip sight then goes at the base of the body on the centre line, or at the centre of where
  13. Well its pretty dense and low porosity but tru-oil will give it a slightly darker honey-yellow hue, like when you wet figured maple with white spirit or teak oil. I think it will look good.
  14. Have you considered a tru-oil finish? Wipe on lots of thin coats progressively over a few days, it cures quickly so you can do one in the morning, one in the evening. It can then be left a few days to harden, then wet sand with 1000 grit and buff with t-cut or similar to a nice sheen, not high gloss but enough to start bringing out the figure.
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